namasgt

Im sharing pics of the work I have done on the engine. I decided to do the intake job when I saw the busted breather hose. I changed every single gasket or seals that goes with the intake and valve covers, the hoses too. I didn’t broke any thing but the knock sensor connectors. the valve covers are back on the car but Im waiting on knock sensors to put the intake back. then I will do the timing belt job, and the water bridge. also Im waiting on fuel line kit from Roger.

namasgt

sorry for the bad quality I used cell phone to take the pics. I painted the intake and valve cover with dupli color after using paint remover and some sandblasting. I used high temp engine primer, then the brake caliper paint.
oh and before painting I cleaned the surfaces with brake cleaner then acetone.

NickT

Looks good!

IndyMatt

We are on reverse paths right now, I am doing the TB?WP job on 88 and then later this year will tackle the intake. I got the Trans, TT, and TC to do before the intake though. The intake and valve covers look great!
Good Luck!

SeanR

That looks really good NamasGT

oups59

I doing exactly the same. Just finish the TB/WP and now I am doing the intake refresh.

Mrmerlin

nice work the car should run great when your done.
A few things , with the intake off you should also replace the Throttl PS and CrankPS and IdleSV as well as refreshing the water bridge and the oil fill spout (either replace the whole oil fill unit or the O ring if the housing isnt warped).These are done with the intake off.
Also did you re[place the flappy shaft bearings if so thats good, Roger also newer style double sealed flappy bearings.

namasgt

thanks for all your positive feedbacks.

Mermerlin
you mention the things I decided not to change. ISV, it looked okay not very dirty, so I just sprayed and cleaned it, even when it was dirty that opening and closing part worked fine it didnt get stuck, but then again I can understand that the small electric motor in it could go bad.
crank position sensor, I talked to roger about it he said I can still change it with the intake on.
throttle position sensor, I have no Idea about that one?????
Do you think I can do the water bridge work with the intake on ? Its probably gona be hard if the intake is on right ? I wanted to do it with the timing belt change, because Im gona take the radiator off.
the filler neck was not warped, I change the seal on it, it looked okay.
the bearings for the intake were changed, and I got a new flapy actuator, I actually broke the old one open to see inside and noting looked worn, I stretched the ruber part inside and it was good.
Im changing fuel lines today. and I got my injectors back from whitch hunter.
my car has not been running for 6 weeks now and I just bought it

oups59

That is why we have a real winter up here, just to have time for maintenance

It's -22 Celsius today in Montreal

Stromius

Call Sean...he can fix in 20 minutes per yesterday's pace!

Jadz928

Great work! Same deal here... had the car on lifts for over 2 months, have only owned it 4 months. Nice to have it all done though. Thank goodness though, the PO did the intake R&R.

Yes, you can do the coolant bridge with the intake on. The rear/left bolt is really, really tight to the intake and a round-head allen key (or whatever it's called) is req'd. Be careful of your new intake paint with that bolt.

Mrmerlin

I would change out the water bridge now with the intake off otherwise you will have to remove the intake hold down bolts and lift it up and remove the oil fill spout to slide the water bridge out of the block.
For the oil fill spout just rest the long edge on a flat surface, if you can see its bent then a new one should be ordered.
The throttle position switch should be replaced even if the one you have was working, you will now have a spare. It is very hard to replace the TPS while the intake is installed and more than a few have failed after R n R of intake

Jadz928

I didn't have to do this. My water bridge came out with relative ease. Actually it was more difficult to reinstall... was hard to seat the new oring.

Bill Ball

Many of these have broken Wide Open Throttle (WOT) "switches". The WOT "switch" is really a points type contact arm that is supposed to close at about 2/3rds throttle opening. There are some solder joints inside the switch that crack with age and cause the WOT switch to fail or only activate at 95+% open. Since you have the intake off, you can test your switch. You will be able to hear the idle portion of the TPS as it is a microswitch that trips only a few degrees off the idle stop. But the WOT switch makes no noise. Regardless, you should verify that the switches are working by putting a continuity tester across the TPS electrical connector pins. Note the numbers 3, 18 and 2 on the outside of the connector adjacent to the pins, visible in the second picture below if you look closely. To test the idle switch bridge the center pin 18 (ground) and pin 3 and watch continuity break as you open the throttle and you hear the click. Then you can check the WOT switch by bridging pins 18 and 2 and look for continuity at somewhere around 2/3rds to 3/4ths throttle. If yours works, be happy or get a new one as Stan suggested. Note the new ones seem to have weakness in the same area. Or you can carefully cut open the TPS case at the seam, separate it and resolder the spots where the contact arms are anchored (blue circles in second picture) then glue the case back together. I've done it successfully.

It can be done with the intake on. I don't think it would be that much harder, but with the intake off, why not do it now?

namasgt

Thanks Bill for the info. Im openning mine now.


I`ll probobly buy one but what happens when it fails? bad fuel economy, poor performance, any examples.
why the new ones fail , are they the same brand "BOSCH" or is it the same brand that autozone sales with 2 year waranty for $54.00 ???
Mermerlin thanks for informing me about this part.