Merlin, would you suggest to put the rack centering pin in place before doing so? I do this just for self assurance.

 

Parts are on order, now all I have to do is wait. And prep the rack of course.

Thanks for the pre-job help. It is always good to go at a job with some advice from those who've been there done that.

I'll take some pictures during the procedure; if there isn't too much blood that is.

Cheers,

 

all you have to do to drop the rack is undo the 2 rack hoses , bottom of the rack (banjo bolts)and loosen the 10mm bolt that clamps the lines to the fender well (so the lines wont bend when you remove the rack) then undo the cross member bolts , a 5 mm allen wrench can be slid along the the heads of the 17mm bolt heads to hold them while the nuts are undone.
then the rack will just hang from the steering input shaft and the tie rods.
No need for a centering screw to be added, no need for the steering shaft to be disconnected.
The bushings are pressed in and with a bit of hammering and socket they will tap out or you can use an air chisle.
Make sure to use new sealing rings on the banjo bolts you will need 4 of them otherwise a hi probability of a leak

 

The new solid bushings are in and the front end is back to where it should be.

In order to provide access to the 17mm bolts holding the reinforcement plate on, I had to remove the oil filter (time for a change anyway), and disconnect the cables running to the starter and slide them out of the way.

I removed the 13mm and 17mm nuts and the 17mm bolt. With the plate dropped, I wiggled the rack a bit to drop it down. Then, because the bushings were is such bad shape, I was able to push the center sleeve out using a large screwdriver. With these out I used a hammer and chisel to tap the lip of the outer sleeve into the center and push what was left of the bushing up and out.

The photos show the old and new bushings. Not such a bad job; and only a little blood and a damaged pinky knuckle.

Cheers,

 

Nice going. The steering must be really tight now. That's an easy upgrade, easier than replacing with stock bushings IMHO.

 

I went the solid rack bushings as well. WHAT A DIFFERENCE.

I really didn't even realize how bad they were. I was at MidOhio and one of the fastest shoes was interested in driving my car and helping me find another second .....we were running down the back straight at over 125 MPH when he took the steering wheel and turned it 25-30 degrees each way with no change in direction. I couldn't believe it !!! In an understated way, he said maybe you should look fixing that.

Over the course of time as these items wear, you just don't notice it.

Ken

 

i did them also time ago... but mentioned Carl that with those solid pieces the hole steering rack can move up about 4 to 5 mm ... just make a simple cross section sketch and you will see. I'n not saying it will do , but it can . If the solid bushings come "loose" ( there is normaly a light radial pressure to "hammer" them in, there's possible play upword. ( Vibrations ? )

So i laser cut 4 aluminium washers and placed them above the rack , over the solid bushings to block the free space .

in this pic you can see the "washers"...

 

+1 on the washers......my bushings were not exactly snug in the hole.

Ken

 

If you can't remove the old bushings with a hammer and chisel, they're not ready for replacement. As for separating the lower ball joint, I remove the nut and hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer. Specifically, in the area the ball joint passes through. You'll be able to tell by the tone of the noise when you're hitting the "sweet spot." Two or three (sometimes just one) good whacks on it and the ball joint breaks free immediately. Unfortunately, it's a trick that takes a little time to learn. The upper ball joint is even better because of the nut that secures it. I just loosen that nut as far as I can which presses it against that tab that keeps it from coming out. You tighten it against that tab as tight as you can go, and then hit the knuckle with the hammer. It usually comes out even faster because you have the pressure from the nut pushing on it.

 

after hammering a bit the outer sleeve on top , i placed a bolt in it ( with a head that can pass the steering rack hole ofcourse ) , placed a socket under ( inside diameter enough to hold the old bushing ) , a nut and turn ! everything comes nice and easy out of it .