AO

Please pardon my ignorance. I'm losing my rear WB virginity here.

I've assembled all the toolsand materials listed above. I have the rear caliper, parking brake and dust shield removed. I belive my next step is to remove the hub, correct?

I don't see an elegant way to hook the slide hammer to the hub for extraction. Suggestions?

EDIT: Sorry. Just re-read post 29. Will try that first.

AO

Hmmm... Do I need to remove the half-shaft first? Sure looks like I do.

AO

Alright, I think I'm getting somewhere. I removed the half-shaft and am now trying to remove the hub. I believe this is the part dr bob suggested I shoulder against when slide hammering, correct?

THe progress is slow, but I'm getting there.

Mrmerlin

that part is the hub flange, knocking this part out will also drive out the outer inner race as it will be pressed onto the hub flange, a few good hits with a proper adapter and it should pop out, note either have a helper or tie off one of the lugs with some mechanics wire so the flange doesnt go shooting across the room and get damaged.
Then you can cut the outer race off of the hub flange with a cut off wheel.
Put the flange in the freezer ,this aids in installing it into the new bearing
Then clean the hub carrier, so its spotless where the old bearing has to slide out, remove the snap ring, heat the carrier with a mapp gas torch and then the bearing can be driven out.
Have the new bearing in the freezer for about an hour B4 trying to remove the old bearing , (this is done so you pop out the old and pop in the new bearing) with minimum carrier heating. Once the new bearing is in, install the snap ring. Spin the new bearing inner races so they will take the heat and warm up to the hub carrier heat.
Then fit the floating brake shoe plate then fit the hub flange into the new bearing and fit the CV axle from the other side use anti seize on the threadsa and then tighten it down with a impact wrench ( the one you would use on the lug nuts would be good, This presses the flange into the new bearing.

Dont forget to fit the E brake floating shoe plate B4 fitting the flange to the bearing, once the flange is pressed in the new bearing will be destroyed if the flange has to be removed

Rob Edwards

Just in case it isn't clear enough, this is $108 worth of advice for free. Ask me how I know.....

AO

Thanks Stan and Rob.

Well, I've given up knocking this thing out. It just won't budge. I'm now resorting to the WSM proceedure. I have a neighbor who has a shop that can hopefully press this out - but I can't make it over to his shop until tomorrow.

AO

I got it out. I'll post my solution a bit later, but wanted to update you.

Bill Ball

So, the slide hammer was not adequate to pull the hub from the carrier? Dr. Bob thought it was enough. But it's only 2lb. HF sells 3 and 5 lb slides for more money. Stan says he knocked it out from the inside. I have no experience yet with the Sir Tool or the alternative methods Stan mentions. My "traditional" approach is documented here.
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/...eplacement.htm

dr bob

A few folks have posted that they use a slide hammer to get that stub axle out of the bearing. I haven't done it myself but mine (and Rob's) came out easily enough with the Sir Tools puller that it would seem very reasonable that a slide hammer will do it. Once the stub axle is out, the method of removing and replacing the bearing is the same whether you use the H-F puller kit or the Sir Tools puller kit. We did not need to heat the carrier to get the bearings in or out, but we did freeze the new bearings.

The advice to assemble the parking brakes before installing the stub shaft is two-purpose. Assembling the brakes and cable cams etc is a lot easier if the drive flange of the stub axle isn't in the way. It also pretty much guarantees that the backing plate is installed before the stub shaft goes in.

Mrmerlin

DrBob if your heating the rear hub carrier then you would not install the E brake shoes to the carrier till things cool off, just put on the floating plate.
For more clarity after the snap ring is removed , an air hammer with the proper round plate sitting against the inside portion of the bearing will drive it out, make sure to have someone to catch the bearing. and if you do use heat use a Mapp gas torch it gets hotter faster.
The frozen bearings will just about drop in if heat is used

AO

Old bearing is out! What a PITA! That's serious work.

AO

Done! What a job.

What I learned is that the (2lb) slide hammer doesn't have enough umph to get the stub axle out. I ended up removing the entire hub assembly from the car and then stacked up 2x4 3 levels high with a cutout on the middle one for the studs. One good whack with a 3lb hand sledge and it was out.





I used the HF Front bearing service kit that dr bob recommended. It worked, but if I didn't have a 32mm gear wrench it would have been much harder. I felt like a got a very good workout.

After I finally got the bearing out, I put the hub in the oven and baked it for 25 minutes to get it nice and warm. I had the bearing in the freezer since this afternoon.



I was hopeful that the bearing would just drop in like other have reported, but it did not. So I reconfigured the HF front bearing service kit and was able to draw it in. I remounted the hub to the car, hooked up the parking brake, and did a similar process of drawing in the stub axle. The HF kit worked really well for all of this activity.

After that it was a breeze!

Driving test tomorrow.

Bill Ball

3lb sledge solves a lot of problems. Good work.

dr bob

Maybe the extra $$ for the Sir Tools kit wasn't wasted after all. Perhaps a bigger slide hammer is in order if you want to save on the tool costs.

The Sir Tools kit that I bought has been transported to NorCal for use by the owners within driving distance of Bill Ball. Put it to work!

Tony

is this SIR tool still out there for use?

I really don't want to pull the whole hub assembly off to get a bearing out like AO did.


great thread BTW!