Rob Edwards

No date that I know of, I'm still paying off the husband points from Luan's GTG (though the bottle of cognac Luan brought went a long way..... )

Bob, any idea of your weekends in February or March? The rest of my January is blown up with hospital call, first mine and then Jen's.

worf928

Told ya!

What's weird though is that I don't remember any issues getting the inner race out. IIRC there was a plate that was just exactly the right size, or I had the hub heated-up enough that it come out with the bearing. I don't remember which.

In any case, glad the tool worked out for ya.

Dave H.

a slide hammer works well also. a few good pulls and the bearing will separate.

air tools if you have them.

also you can have a bigger ratchet if you buy one of those cheapie $10 1/2" drive torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. a ratchet is about all it's good for.

you could also put the hub in a vise and use a pry bar or two...

RyanPerrella

Bob

When i did the flush on the brakes i was checking the suspension out on the front and still cant say for sure whats causing the noise there. If youve got a few minutes when i drop the bleeder off, perhaps we can pull one of the front wheels and the dust cap and check wheel bearing play on the front.

You dont have an EASY way to pull the front dust caps do you? That could be worth a million bucks!

Rob Edwards

Ryan-

I need to do the front wheel bearings at some point, and after Dwyane showed one in his writeup, I got the Porsche front bearing cap tool (#9165) from DR. It threads on the HF/Pittsburg slide hammer perfectly. Yell if you'd like me to toss it in the mail to you.

RyanPerrella

OOOHHHHH THATS PRETTY!

dr bob

Beyond the factory method that Rob illustrates so well, I use a short piece of scrap oak flooring and a 20oz mallet. Pulls the cap off with absolutely no markings on the cap.

Play in the front bearings is easy to feel just by pulling/pushing on the rims at top-bottom, then front-back. No need to dismount anything. If you feel play in them, you might be able to adjust them, but... By the time you feel play, it's pretty much time for new bearings and seals. Unless the play is from someone leaving them loose during a previous adjustment, the only thing that allows play is bearing wear. Bearings are relatively cheap. Get real German bearings, BTW, not less-than-stellar bits sold at the discount parts places. There was a pretty good thread on this on the last year or three, worth following that advice.

AO

I'm going to be picking up this kit next week and will be doing a rear wheel bearing R&R. I'll do my best to take a video (after I ask you guys for help... )

blown 87

If you have a mig, run a bead around the inside of the race, it will fall out after it cools.

dr bob

Andrew--

If you don't mind using a slide hammer to get the stub axle out of the wheel bearing while it's in the suspension upright, there's a H-F front-drive wheel bearing toolkit that has everything you'll need to pull the rest of the bearing out, install the new one, and put the stub axle back in. The Sir Tools kit is a bit more elegant, but it's also 5X the cost for the luxury of jacking the stub axle out vs slide-hammering it. The H-F kit has the parts you'll need to add to your slide hammer for the extraction of the stub axle.

If you don't have a BF snap ring pliers already, now would be a good time to invest.


And here's a tip that will save some crying: If you pull the parking brake shoes and mechanism out, assemble it all ---before-- you put the stub axle back in. The backing plate must go on before the stub axle goes in. $100 mistake when I got in a hurry on Rob's car. Had to buy another bearing plus a couple days of delay with his car in Karen's garage space. You know how popular that was...

Bill Ball

This is good news!

So, this would be the HF kit?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45210

and

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5469

So, $100.

AO

Hell no, I don't mind. Can you confirm the two parts (well really just the FWD bearing service kit) that Bill points to? I've never done this type of work, so I'll probably ask for assistance.

RED SHARK 1990

Hello ROB i might be there to pay back and learn from engine pull .There is engine hoist and 8 ton lift in craigslist in san diego for 100.00 you might want to check a search there...Luan

dr bob

Those are the tools I was looking at. The slide hammer kit is a bit more than what you need for this, but no such thing as too many tools, right? Use the slide hammer with a nut on it big enough to shoulder against the inside end of the stub shaft, small enough to fit through the wheel bearing. The stub shaft will come out with half of the inner bearing race with it. That race comes off with MAP gas heat and a sacrificial chisel, followed by a standard bearing puller. There's a snap ring that holds the bearing in the upright. Takes a pretty beefy pliers and some manipulation with a screwdrivere or two to get it out. Then the puller tool is used to draw the bearing out of the upright, using a drive plate that just fits inside the inner shoulder on the upright. That means the biggest disk that you can get to actually fit on the bearing, inside the lip where the bearing seats at the back of the hole in the upright. Once the bearing is out, you can put the new one in. If you pulled the parking brake shoes off, put them back on first. Freeze the bearing before you install it. Put the snap ring back in. Draw the stub shaft back in, using the smallest drive plate that just meets the inside diameter of the bearing. You want to put pressure on just the inner race now, therefore the small plate. In the Sir Tools kit, the drive plates have inside boss in the middle on one side; Make sure that the boss points towards the transmission so the stub axle can go all the way in. Then brake disk and screws, caliper, and the half-shaft go back in. The nut on the half-shaft squeezes the bearing halves and clamps them in place, while keeping the axle in place through the bearing that's held in by that snap ring. Put the wheels on, torque the lug nuts to 94 lbs/ft. Lower the car, and do a final torque on the axle nut and the lug nuts before driving.

If you use the Sir Tools puller to get the stub shaft and the bearing out, you need to pull the parking brakes off in spite of what the directions tell you. Otherwise you risk deforming the parking brake backing plate. Needle-nose pliers to remove the hold-down springs, remove the edjuster, then the other two springs come off pretty easily. Note how the cable attaches to the cam parts, including the two pins. On assembly, install the lower parking brake shoe first, and the anchor spring. Assemble the cable to the cam parts. Fit the cable-side return spring to both shoes, and hold the top shoe in place while you fit the adjuester-end return spring. Then the top shoe retainer spring. Then wedge the adjuster back in. I found that a nut-driver that just fits over the anchor springs is the perfect tool for installation; you can put a finger at the backside of the little hole and feel when the hook is set correctly around the little hump where it normally sits. Do the parking brake asembly before you reinstall the stub shaft, and you'll have easy access to all the pieces. It also forces you to put the ^&%$#$ backing plate on before that stub shaft goes back in. Very Important!!

AO

Thanks bob. I plan on tackling this tomorrow. Will try to take lots of pics/video.