S/C rebuild part 3
#1
Race Car
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I have been trying to get this 86 Super charger to work correctly surging was the main issue and have done numerous things:
Replaced the Maf with custom adjustable one form injection labs still surged.
I then relocated my Maf after purchasing a custom cable under the passenger fender. The surging went away but I lost 1 1/4 lb's of boost I was getting a restiction and did not want to hack up the body. A little while after that the belt shredded and wrapped around the crank pulley. I replaced the belt and have only driven it very few miles then my radiator started to leak. When I pulled it out I noticed the S/C belt riding over to the front of the top pulley. Looking at the the pictures show what happened to the lower pulley. I have replaced both pulleys and will keep an eye on it. While in there I decided after speaking to toofast and imooo
they used a set up useing a lage pipe for the Maf it seemed to work for them. I fabricated a new 4" pipe and turned around the boot and for the brief test drive the surging is completely gone. So the moral of the story is the 4" 90 degree pipe is required for at least my 86 to have this run correctly. I have not got on it to test out the new smaller pulley until I change my chip and verify the belt will not come apart. Wish me luck. Now on to the overheating with the air on in the summer Floridas heat, can't test that for a few months it's only 77 now
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Replaced the Maf with custom adjustable one form injection labs still surged.
I then relocated my Maf after purchasing a custom cable under the passenger fender. The surging went away but I lost 1 1/4 lb's of boost I was getting a restiction and did not want to hack up the body. A little while after that the belt shredded and wrapped around the crank pulley. I replaced the belt and have only driven it very few miles then my radiator started to leak. When I pulled it out I noticed the S/C belt riding over to the front of the top pulley. Looking at the the pictures show what happened to the lower pulley. I have replaced both pulleys and will keep an eye on it. While in there I decided after speaking to toofast and imooo
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#3
Captain Obvious
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Ahh I see what you did...looks good!
I see you used friction tape at the connectors, very good idea but if you are in a pinch, painting the pipes and then assembling it, right after it dries, will "glue" the pipes to the rubber too. What is that rubber elbow from?
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#4
Race Car
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The Elbow was from the original kit. I need to replace the condenser fan the one I have is not correct. To be used as a pusher I had to wire it backward because the fan blades were not reversible. Therefor the blade pitch is incorrect for the rotation, you can feel it blowing out while blowing in if that makes sense.
#5
Drifting
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If you don't have a bead roller, I've had good luck on intercooler piping by just welding 4 dots around the tube on the outside. Just get them inside the house clamp and the tube shouldn't back out. I've never had one come loose under boost.
#6
Burning Brakes
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The Elbow was from the original kit. I need to replace the condenser fan the one I have is not correct. To be used as a pusher I had to wire it backward because the fan blades were not reversible. Therefor the blade pitch is incorrect for the rotation, you can feel it blowing out while blowing in if that makes sense.
My Radiator also became leaky at the right side tank at the top. I am fairly sure it was from running a higher temperature than normal. At that point I just bit the bullet and went with the C & R radiator.
#7
Race Car
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I know about the radiator issues, this is my second one the shop broke a bunch of tabs trying to change the side tanks. I picked this up used and checked it out with a bore scope and it looked clean inside but go figure it springs a leak! I still think its do to the clearance between the super charger intake and the radiator. There is not enough room to allow for the condenser fan air to circulate efficiently.
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#10
Under the Lift
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So, the main modification to stop the surging was to move the pipe/boot size transition further away from the MAF, right? I made some similar observations when installing an SC kit for someone else about a year ago. Most people say they do not have surging regardless, and many that do resolve it by changing the MAF.
#11
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I always expected this was the issue after I went to the trouble of relocating the Maf under the fender and it stopped surging. I know not every car had this problem, but how many 86's are S/C out there! It was the fast drop at 90 Degrees that in my mind was causing the air to be caveatted. The surging was only apparent when under light load driving steady down the road. Its been a lot of trial error, a lot of parts used then taken off , a lot of time and money to get this to run to my satisfaction, but I think this might just do it.
#14
Captain Obvious
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Beleive it or not, barely dry pint on the end of the tubes, is even beter. The pipe will glue itself to the rubber connector and it will have to be pried off with a flathead screwdriver. On top of it all, I only used regular, screw type clamps too, and the connection was as a weld. OR at least it was for 7psi.
#15
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I have everything back together and it idles fine but it is going dangerously lean. It runs fine not under boost!
5 Lb's boost 19+ Afr no leaks in maf area what could be causing this?
5 Lb's boost 19+ Afr no leaks in maf area what could be causing this?