S4 Caliper refinish and re-build: What to (and what not to) do:
#46
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#47
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I never managed to try the heat trick on the pad retainers, but I did have a reasonable success today with caliper stencils. When I sprayed the calipers I used Duplicolor caliper paint (with Ceramic!1!!!11!), and put down 4-5 light coats. It ended up sort of rough, so I had to sand the surface with 400 grit paper to smooth it enough for the vinyl stencils to adhere properly.
Stencils were from here. They measure 3.0 x 0.25", so they may be wrong for GTS calipers, but whatever.... :
http://www.europdr.com/caliperstencil.htm
Anyway, stick the stencil on, mask off, shoot 2 light coats (I used 'hot rod white' engine enamel), let dry 2 hours, unmask. Now I just need to re-tape the interiors and shoot clear and they're done.
Stencils were from here. They measure 3.0 x 0.25", so they may be wrong for GTS calipers, but whatever.... :
http://www.europdr.com/caliperstencil.htm
Anyway, stick the stencil on, mask off, shoot 2 light coats (I used 'hot rod white' engine enamel), let dry 2 hours, unmask. Now I just need to re-tape the interiors and shoot clear and they're done.
#50
Nordschleife Master
tisk tisk, how dare you (potentially) but the incorrect sized "PORSCHE" lettering on your brake calipers! Ferry will never forgive you for this sin!
I think its so funny that you even mentioned this. Cause you know some dick on here would say..... "oh well Rob, you do know that those are the incorrect sized letters right, you see because the ratio of the size of the P in relation to the bleed screw is all wrong, and thats a terrible offense......"
#51
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Rob, those screws can be a bugger but the one screw on mine that the head stripped on, came right off with a little persuasion. I went to a machinist who told me there was nothing for it but to split the caliper, and I talked him into TIG welding a washer to the bolt head then a nut to the washer, and it came right out. Since you already have the seal in that might not be practical, but I just thought I'd let you know there are options...
BTW I had a feeling I shouldn't have showed you my calipers.
BTW I had a feeling I shouldn't have showed you my calipers.
I know the manual says don't split the caliper. But I can't for the life of me think of a reason why. Anyone ??
Oh and before someone says about resealing them afterwards, there ain't no seals between the caliper halves. because there's nothing to seal. The only fluid connection between halves is the little external pipe at the bottom.
#52
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After clearcoat. Now I can replace the bleeders and then mount 'em up.
#53
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Lookin' good Rob.
#54
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Rob - Starting the day early with pregame (Super Bowl) festivities. A couple libations in me when I checked out your update. With the perspective and background in you freshly clear painted caliper, it looked to me, just for a moment or two, that it was as big as a car.... If it is, that'll stop you. If it isn't I need to refrain a bit.
Carry on
Carry on
#55
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Well, it clearly won't fit in the garage across the street , that's for sure.
Excited about the Saints this afternoon, are we?
Excited about the Saints this afternoon, are we?
#56
Jon, I always break them in half and then retorque them. My F50 caliper needed a repair and the bolts get corroded and I either replace them or have them replated. It is a massive job rebuilding these calipers. I also had to get new cap screws! At the concours I asked one of the members how much the painter was changing to redo them and it was $340 AUD or about $300 USD each. I can see why.
Greg
P.S Jon are you going to the meeting tomorrow?
Greg
P.S Jon are you going to the meeting tomorrow?
#57
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#58
Three Wheelin'
Thank you for this post! It helped me tremendously.
I just attempted this service on my fronts and wanted to add my experience, in case it helps somebody.
Instead of trying to get the 10mm male fitting that fits the main inlet on the caliper, just get a blow gun with a rubber tip. It seals perfectly:
On my '86.5 calipers, I have a different style piston. Placing some wood or anything flat against the inside of the caliper did NOT create an air tight seal. I used a small plastic cap to something (I don't recall what it came off of) and clamped it in the empty bore to seal it. It was soft enough to not damage anything:
Finally, I found it best to remove the two pistons on the side opposite the main inlet. Once those two are removed, I removed the cross over pipe and capped the two open ports on the side with the main inlet with grease fittings. This way I only had to ever deal with capping one empty bore at a time. I wish I would have figured this trick out on the first caliper...not when I was nearly done with the 2nd.
My results, using VHT caliper paint and clear coat.
Cheers,
Chris
I just attempted this service on my fronts and wanted to add my experience, in case it helps somebody.
Instead of trying to get the 10mm male fitting that fits the main inlet on the caliper, just get a blow gun with a rubber tip. It seals perfectly:
On my '86.5 calipers, I have a different style piston. Placing some wood or anything flat against the inside of the caliper did NOT create an air tight seal. I used a small plastic cap to something (I don't recall what it came off of) and clamped it in the empty bore to seal it. It was soft enough to not damage anything:
Finally, I found it best to remove the two pistons on the side opposite the main inlet. Once those two are removed, I removed the cross over pipe and capped the two open ports on the side with the main inlet with grease fittings. This way I only had to ever deal with capping one empty bore at a time. I wish I would have figured this trick out on the first caliper...not when I was nearly done with the 2nd.
My results, using VHT caliper paint and clear coat.
Cheers,
Chris
#59
If one had to absolutely remove the bolts that connect the two halves of the caliper, how would one reassemble?