Hopelessly stuck Oil pan- Solvents?
#46
Nordschleife Master
For metal to metal, the loctite 574 the factory uses is pretty damn good - goes off fast, seals quite large gaps (loctite rate it for 0.5mm IIRC - which is more than you should find on the 928).
Otherwise, the factory gaskets are good - just apply dry and torque properly.
Otherwise, the factory gaskets are good - just apply dry and torque properly.
#47
There is a school of thought that the Porsche engineers knew what they were doing. That said there is plenty of angst out there about their cork gaskets. Eg https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ket-leaks.html.
At the risk of going over old ground - are you saying that in your view cork is the best followed by a metal-locktite-metal solution? Did you have a view on the silicone gaskets that others have moved to?
At the risk of going over old ground - are you saying that in your view cork is the best followed by a metal-locktite-metal solution? Did you have a view on the silicone gaskets that others have moved to?
#48
Nordschleife Master
There is a school of thought that the Porsche engineers knew what they were doing. That said there is plenty of angst out there about their cork gaskets. Eg https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ket-leaks.html.
At the risk of going over old ground - are you saying that in your view cork is the best followed by a metal-locktite-metal solution? Did you have a view on the silicone gaskets that others have moved to?
At the risk of going over old ground - are you saying that in your view cork is the best followed by a metal-locktite-metal solution? Did you have a view on the silicone gaskets that others have moved to?
For oil pan, there are pretty much two reliable options:
1. the factory cork works well - and can be torqued to spec correctly (60 inch pounds), although I'd personally use some loctite purple (screw-lock - the lowest grade) to help stop the bolts loosening over time as the cork ages and compresses.
2. The silicone oil pan gasket sold by a couple of vendors also works, but you have to be very careful with the compression as it will squish out of the gap - in general, people use nylock nuts and studs for this, as the torque on the silicone gasket is so low.
My loctite comment was more for general gasket purposes, although some use it in conjunction with an oil pan spacer (to move the sump further from the spinning crank).
I've used the silicone gasket a couple of times with success (I've owned a few 928's), but will probably just use the cork one next time as I've got one to hand which came as part of the engine gasket kit.
BTW - if you're replacing all the gaskets/seals on your engine, buy the complete engine gasket kit, don't buy a few bits here and a few bits there
#49
My PO left me a new gasket. seems he may have put off installing it. I have no idea as to the brand but it could be a felpro (OS30820) I have had good luck with them on other cars. silicone sucks.
#50
Roger that guys. I'll get a complete gasket set and stick with cork. I've also got leaks coming from the crank and cam shafts which I will need to attend to once I've dealt with the sump, mounts and steering.
#51
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I prefer the silicon gasket. I clean all the bolt holes, use new bolts with lock-washers and blue loctite all properly torqued with a small torque wrench. Double-digit installs and no leaks after years and years.