oz928s4

Has anyone posted on this topic with destructions and or pics

Mrmerlin

Dwayne might have a few threads about this with pictures, do a search for Dwayne

SeanR

I did this job about a month ago but the pictures are on another computer. Pretty easy job and a few while you are at its when you are in there. Be careful not to break any of the bolts or strip the allen heads, clean them out well before tring to take them off. If one is stuck, ease it back and forth to try and break up any corrosion in the bolt holes.

A big must is to replace all the seals/gaskets. There will be 8 spark plug seals (if you don't replace them the spark plug holes can fill up with oil) The main cam cover gasket, and the bolt seals/washers (26 of them I think)

Be sure to check the chain tensioning pads, there are 2 that wear down and are pretty simple to replace, I think they run around $15-$20 each.

The Hall sensor is another thing that is best to change while you have this apart. You really can't change the Hall w/ the cam covers on with any ease at all. Most are busted up by age and heat by now.

If I can think of anything else I'll post up.

Hilton

+928

Having just replaced my hall sensor with cam covers on, its a hideously fiddly job.

Even with the cam covers off, access to the hall sensor is tricky - it helps if you remove the engine lifting tab (can reach the M8 bolt from underneath with your hand as well as a ratchet).

Also worth noting - to take the right-hand cam cover off, you're going to need to remove the fuel line that goes to the front fuel damper, and the breather hoses, and the air pump diverter valve.

If you're not removing the intake at the same time, be careful not to pull the vacuum line off that's next to the front breather hose - it goes to the flappy and you'd end up taking the intake off. Lots of people combine the cam covers with doing the whole intake refresh.

Mrmerlin

dont forget about adding the sealing washers to the all of the securing bolts( they fit between the head of the bolt and crush washers) they will add a bit more clamping to the screw

mcholdfast

Is there anything special about the sealing washers or are they something that could be found at a hardware store? How thick are they?

Mrmerlin

they are about 1mm thick and are made of aluminum and they fit the shank of the cam cover bolts

Hilton

There's a specific part number for them - there's a tech. bulletin about it.

You need 12 of them - they go on the 4 lower edge bolts, and then the middle one on each end (so they compress the lower half of the cover tighter against the gasket).

I'll have a dig through my parts ordered list

edit: Found the bulletin.. see image below

ROG100

I use one under the head of each bolt - bolt, sealing washer, dome washer then thrust washer.

Mrmerlin

if your wondering the A arrows indicate where a liquid sealant should be placed to prevent seepage, Yamah bond/ Honda bond should work well.
Also
I used washers on all of bolts , instead of just along the lower edge
If thats not enough then, if you remove either one of the cam securing caps to remove and replace the end seals (black and round about 2in. in diameter) then you should also add some loctite 574 anerobic sealant to this joint otherwise leaks will develop

SteveG

Last time I checked, Fastenal had them. Price them at a P dealer to re-enforce your opinion for doin-it-yerself, which includes sourcing parts. Porsche and P dealers are the mothership, but sometimes you just have to known when to fold'em.

ROG100

I sell them for $0.49c each

blandis

Roger
Im looking at doing the same on my 84. What is your suggested parts list to do this job.

SeanR

Brad, yours is different. You just need the cam carrier gasket and possible the rubber plug seals, there are 12 of those. (I think)

blandis

Sean going to try and narrow it down this weekend. Has been to cold to mess with it, been driving the truck instead.