I'm about to convert to Porkensioner
12-09-2008, 01:04 PM
#16
Inventor
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HTD (round tooth belt) gears are fitted from the factory, '83-up.
12-09-2008, 01:13 PM
#17
Team Owner
It would be wise to check all of the pulleys as you want to find if they will be round tooth design and also on the crank gear take a straight edge and put it on one of the teeth see if it is worn.
the hi points of the teeth wear down with age if there is noticeable wear its a good idea to replace the crank drive gear.
Dont forget to check the oil pump gear for being steel, if its aluminum then it should be replaced and the 1mm spacer behind it removed ( 1mm spacer found on the aluminum gear installations)
the hi points of the teeth wear down with age if there is noticeable wear its a good idea to replace the crank drive gear.
Dont forget to check the oil pump gear for being steel, if its aluminum then it should be replaced and the 1mm spacer behind it removed ( 1mm spacer found on the aluminum gear installations)
12-09-2008, 04:25 PM
#18
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If you are replacing a rubber seal on a slightly worn shaft, the best surface on the shaft is 30-degree scratch pattern from 400-grit wet-or-dry. That is, you want to lightly sand the seal surface at a thirty-degree angle from both directions, leaving a light cross-hatch pattern. You do NOT want a smootly polished surface where the seal runs.
12-10-2008, 09:34 AM
#19
If you are replacing a rubber seal on a slightly worn shaft, the best surface on the shaft is 30-degree scratch pattern from 400-grit wet-or-dry. That is, you want to lightly sand the seal surface at a thirty-degree angle from both directions, leaving a light cross-hatch pattern. You do NOT want a smootly polished surface where the seal runs.
12-10-2008, 12:26 PM
#21
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Perhaps easier to say what you don't want...
You DON'T want:
- a polished area where the seal contacts the shaft.
- a coarse scratch pattern (e.g., don't use coarse abrasive)
- a scratch pattern that runs up and down the shaft
- a scratch pattern that runs straight around the shaft
You DO want a scratch pattern that runs around the shaft at about a thirty degree angle from both directions. Take a new piece of 400-grit wet-or-dry paper and tear it into finger-sized pieces (1 1/2" x 4"). Gently sand around the shaft, moving at a sixty degree angle to the length of the shaft, which will be thirty degrees away from being straight around the shaft. Make a smooth pattern of scratches all the way around the shaft. Repeat, going sixty degrees from the length of the shaft in the other direction. This will make a cross-hatch pattern on the shaft. Clean the shaft thoroughly.
NEVER install a lip seal dry! Always lube the seal lips, using a grease that is compatible with whatever the seal is sealing. A dry seal will be ruined in the first few seconds of operation.
The cross-hatch pattern will be just enough to allow the fluid being sealed to lubricate the seal lips.
A polished surface will not lubricate the lips, and the seal will wear quickly.
You DON'T want:
- a polished area where the seal contacts the shaft.
- a coarse scratch pattern (e.g., don't use coarse abrasive)
- a scratch pattern that runs up and down the shaft
- a scratch pattern that runs straight around the shaft
You DO want a scratch pattern that runs around the shaft at about a thirty degree angle from both directions. Take a new piece of 400-grit wet-or-dry paper and tear it into finger-sized pieces (1 1/2" x 4"). Gently sand around the shaft, moving at a sixty degree angle to the length of the shaft, which will be thirty degrees away from being straight around the shaft. Make a smooth pattern of scratches all the way around the shaft. Repeat, going sixty degrees from the length of the shaft in the other direction. This will make a cross-hatch pattern on the shaft. Clean the shaft thoroughly.
NEVER install a lip seal dry! Always lube the seal lips, using a grease that is compatible with whatever the seal is sealing. A dry seal will be ruined in the first few seconds of operation.
The cross-hatch pattern will be just enough to allow the fluid being sealed to lubricate the seal lips.
A polished surface will not lubricate the lips, and the seal will wear quickly.