Koenig-Specials 928

as a winter storage prooject. I am getting the parts that I need as well as others. Is this a picture of the crank gear (with the bolt) that I am looking at? Would a babied 100Kmi S4 need this replaced? If yes, are these the parts that I need?

- 1 crank drive gear with HTD tooth design
- 2 thrust flanges for the crank gear
- Is there a woodruf key also that I need?

What about front oil seals and Oil Pump? I have no oil leaks and oil pressure is great. Do I need to replace?

Is the crank Gear and Oil Pump (with seals) difficult to remove and would a puller work. Any tricks I should know about the install.

This is the first try at this. I've already done the Intake rehab on my own.
I've done all the searches, I have 2 binders of colour photos and procedures from almost every thread. Guess I looking for re-assurance that a 7/10 wrench could do it.

Please and thank you.

ROG100

You would only change the cam gears, crank gear and oil pump gear if they show signs of wear.
If you change the crank gear you may need the front and rear thrust washers. If you are careful removing the gear you will not need to replace the washers. The woodruf key should be good also.
If you have no oil leaks I would leave well alone.

Mrmerlin

stick a magnet on the oil pump gear if it sticks then you have the updated oil pump gear if its aluminum then a new steel gear should be installed and the 1mm steel spacer removed.
Since your this far you also replace the Oil pump O ring as well as the radial seals for the oil pump and the front main seal and the 3 oil pump bolt O rings. Make sure all of the gears have round teeth cams oil and crank, they should be round if this is a S4. I would put a straight edge on the crank drive gear to how flat it is or how worn it is.
Also if the arrow that points to a hole is open to the other side of the waterpump then a bolt with sealant should be installed so it wont leak the bearing that goes on this shaft can be omitted

ROG100

The picture you posted is not your car is it???
That is an early style WP.

Lizard928

Sterling, there is another line of thought on those seals

replace them every second TB service to prevent leaking.

PorKen

That's an '86 engine. ('85 has different rear timing belt covers on the left side.)

Koenig-Specials 928

Thanks for all of the above information. No this picture was taken from another thread, not from my car. I will wait until I remove the crank pulley and check out the condition of the other parts. Thanks again.

Mrmerlin

if you dont have any previous history on the car I would replace any seal I could get to, that I have already mentioned.
Then you can go from there, pretty much every oil pump O ring seal I have replaced has been brittle, so now is the time.
Use STP oil treatment to lube the pump B4 you put it back in, also make sure the outer gear has the dot facing the engine and the driven gear , and the bevel on its outer ring facing the pump housing or forward

ROG100

Listen to the experts and ignore my comments 8>)

mj1pate

Looking for 928 experiences regarding oil seal maintenance. My experience with past crank front seal leaks has been that once the seal begins to leak, the problem is two-fold.
1) the seal lip has worn, and
2) the crank surface under the seal lip has work a slight groove as well.

I've experienced in some instances that replacing the front seal failed to completely remedy the oil seepage, because of the shaft grooving. This experience has been substantiated in cars of various character extremes; including a Alfas and a venerable Chevy 350. Off-setting the position of the seal (with respect to the groove) has helped in some instances.

For those of you who have non-preemptively replaced a front seal on a 928 crank (in instances where the original front seal was actually leaking); did the seal replacement solve the leak over a significant period?

Mrmerlin

I have not had any comebacks for oil leaks, I have replaced 5 so far in CO.
as well as oil pump seals

dprantl

I replaced one on my former '86. Didn't touch the oil pump or pan gasket at all. Before the replacement there would be a slow leak that covered the top front of the pan and it would get all grimed up. After the seal replacement, no more leak/grime.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Mrmerlin

sometimes the oil leak can also be the tensioner leaking

aggravation

I did all the seals, new water pump, oil pump, oil and cam gears/sprockets and the Porkensioner.
I don't recall any hidden gotcha's, it was straight forward and easy to do and I'm no auto mechanic by any means.
Just have patience, follow the instructions and advice you get here and you'll be done in no time.

Know the difference between #6 TDC and #1 TDC before you start, I didn't and thought I screwed up but Ken and a few others got me back on track.

Koenig-Specials 928

Thanks everyone. So I am going to change the oil seals as well. I agree because I'm already in there. In a previous thread that I'm absorbing (Water Pump removal), Mrmerlin you advised Surfdog4 to replace the crank gear with the HTD design. Do I already have this on my 89?