anyone have a working cheap used AC blower resistor?
12-04-2008, 04:36 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
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if you cant bolt it up thats beyond my capabilities!
The resistor is $70 new but i dont want to spend even that right now.
Come to think of it, would you solder the coil together in the case that its fractured and broken? I think i could manage that. What is the common failure with these things? I heard that they touch something then they dont work and you can use a screwdriver to pry them away from whatever part it is that it grounds to. But i guess when you mention solder then the coil wire would be broken right?
Last edited by RyanPerrella; 12-04-2008 at 05:07 PM.
12-05-2008, 10:52 AM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Ryan--
The failure mode for the later packs has the thermal protection switch open, so there's no fan function. This is in contrast to the early packs that fail with the thermal switch closed around the resistors, making the fans run on high. Anyway, you may be able to find that you can tweak the thermal protection switch so it's just closed, and restore the functionality while maintaining the protection. I should be back by early next week if it's still a problem, and we can take care of that while the brakes are flushing or something.
The failure mode for the later packs has the thermal protection switch open, so there's no fan function. This is in contrast to the early packs that fail with the thermal switch closed around the resistors, making the fans run on high. Anyway, you may be able to find that you can tweak the thermal protection switch so it's just closed, and restore the functionality while maintaining the protection. I should be back by early next week if it's still a problem, and we can take care of that while the brakes are flushing or something.
12-05-2008, 10:57 AM
#5
Has anyone checked out the 944 resistor setup? They use two externally mounted ballast resistors and use them in combination to get the variable speeds. On the plus side, they are mounted external so you don't need small hands and they are large ballast resistors so cooling isn't a problem. On the down side, you will need to find a spot to mount the approx. 2x6" board.
Dennis
Dennis
12-05-2008, 12:40 PM
#6
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These are not resistors in any normal sense - you can't go to radio shack & buy them... they are substantial coils of big thick resistance wire... inside a wire cage. Dr Bob is right that its usually the protection device that fails...
Alan
Alan
12-05-2008, 01:05 PM
#7
Alan,
Actually, these were the first resistors whether Radio Shack sells them of not. Also, they are nested in round ceramic holders. I.E. just a slightly different version of the ballast resistors on the early 928 ignition systems. Did I mention they don't need the protection device like the Radio Shack version?
Dennis
Actually, these were the first resistors whether Radio Shack sells them of not. Also, they are nested in round ceramic holders. I.E. just a slightly different version of the ballast resistors on the early 928 ignition systems. Did I mention they don't need the protection device like the Radio Shack version?
Dennis
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12-05-2008, 01:13 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
I have never seen the protection device really fail, But I have seen the resistor wire break.
And one should be able to get an appropriate sized/rated resistor, granted not from radio shack but there are places that should carry them
And one should be able to get an appropriate sized/rated resistor, granted not from radio shack but there are places that should carry them
12-05-2008, 02:53 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
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Ryan--
The failure mode for the later packs has the thermal protection switch open, so there's no fan function. This is in contrast to the early packs that fail with the thermal switch closed around the resistors, making the fans run on high. Anyway, you may be able to find that you can tweak the thermal protection switch so it's just closed, and restore the functionality while maintaining the protection. I should be back by early next week if it's still a problem, and we can take care of that while the brakes are flushing or something.
The failure mode for the later packs has the thermal protection switch open, so there's no fan function. This is in contrast to the early packs that fail with the thermal switch closed around the resistors, making the fans run on high. Anyway, you may be able to find that you can tweak the thermal protection switch so it's just closed, and restore the functionality while maintaining the protection. I should be back by early next week if it's still a problem, and we can take care of that while the brakes are flushing or something.
?
12-05-2008, 03:42 PM
#10
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Alan,
Actually, these were the first resistors whether Radio Shack sells them of not. Also, they are nested in round ceramic holders. I.E. just a slightly different version of the ballast resistors on the early 928 ignition systems. Did I mention they don't need the protection device like the Radio Shack version?
Dennis
Actually, these were the first resistors whether Radio Shack sells them of not. Also, they are nested in round ceramic holders. I.E. just a slightly different version of the ballast resistors on the early 928 ignition systems. Did I mention they don't need the protection device like the Radio Shack version?
Dennis
Alan
12-05-2008, 03:46 PM
#11
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If you're able to make it work, please post back with the details. I was planning to order one for the 90 GT but I'd rather spend the money on other items if I can rehab the resistor pack. I compared the non-working one from the 90 GT with a working one from an 89 and it is definitely the protection circuit that is causing mine not to work. All of the resistors check out OK. I'm guessing that soldering a jumper across the protection switch is a ?
?This only applies to the later style thermal switch - though the earlier resistor pack can be adapted to use it with some plug pin changes too.
Alan
12-05-2008, 04:43 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ryan--
The failure mode for the later packs has the thermal protection switch open, so there's no fan function. This is in contrast to the early packs that fail with the thermal switch closed around the resistors, making the fans run on high. Anyway, you may be able to find that you can tweak the thermal protection switch so it's just closed, and restore the functionality while maintaining the protection. I should be back by early next week if it's still a problem, and we can take care of that while the brakes are flushing or something.
The failure mode for the later packs has the thermal protection switch open, so there's no fan function. This is in contrast to the early packs that fail with the thermal switch closed around the resistors, making the fans run on high. Anyway, you may be able to find that you can tweak the thermal protection switch so it's just closed, and restore the functionality while maintaining the protection. I should be back by early next week if it's still a problem, and we can take care of that while the brakes are flushing or something.
I had wanted to get this resistor issue resolved and also finally install the recirc flap actuator which is kinda a WYIT job. Removing or loosening the blower makes the resistor easier to get to. Ive done the recirc before and cant imagine it taking more then an extra hour to pull and swap.
Also maybe we can check my R-12 levels to see that i can still add one additional can to get a full charge.
12-05-2008, 06:31 PM
#14
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Ryan--
Go ahead and do your recirc flap now if you want. I use a parts-grabber thingy to grab the resistor pack through the blower boot, and a piece of wire to follow it out and guide it back in. I have radio announcers hands anyway (wee paws for station identification). If we don't drop any screws the resistor R&R project takes less than half an hour. Usually a whole lot less. Longer if we do a Dwayne-style documentary film project. I'll get the set lights ready and rent a Panaflex... Scripts for the voice-overs should be ready by Monday. Hope the isn't a SAG strike.
Go ahead and do your recirc flap now if you want. I use a parts-grabber thingy to grab the resistor pack through the blower boot, and a piece of wire to follow it out and guide it back in. I have radio announcers hands anyway (wee paws for station identification). If we don't drop any screws the resistor R&R project takes less than half an hour. Usually a whole lot less. Longer if we do a Dwayne-style documentary film project. I'll get the set lights ready and rent a Panaflex... Scripts for the voice-overs should be ready by Monday. Hope the isn't a SAG strike.
12-05-2008, 06:48 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ryan--
Go ahead and do your recirc flap now if you want. I use a parts-grabber thingy to grab the resistor pack through the blower boot, and a piece of wire to follow it out and guide it back in. I have radio announcers hands anyway (wee paws for station identification). If we don't drop any screws the resistor R&R project takes less than half an hour. Usually a whole lot less. Longer if we do a Dwayne-style documentary film project. I'll get the set lights ready and rent a Panaflex... Scripts for the voice-overs should be ready by Monday. Hope the isn't a SAG strike.
Go ahead and do your recirc flap now if you want. I use a parts-grabber thingy to grab the resistor pack through the blower boot, and a piece of wire to follow it out and guide it back in. I have radio announcers hands anyway (wee paws for station identification). If we don't drop any screws the resistor R&R project takes less than half an hour. Usually a whole lot less. Longer if we do a Dwayne-style documentary film project. I'll get the set lights ready and rent a Panaflex... Scripts for the voice-overs should be ready by Monday. Hope the isn't a SAG strike.
sounds good, yes with a tool parts grabber guy its quite easy to get to the thing.
What day were you thinking? you mentioned Monday? I can accomidate whatever schedule you have and we can keep to the fluid flush and resistor and make it a quick little service
for the brake fluid, i should bring 2 of the large bottles right? what is it 32 oz or so?