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Anatomy of a fuel pump

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Old 12-02-2008, 11:55 AM
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robot808
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Default Anatomy of a fuel pump

Yesterday I noticed a small pool of gasoline behind my car and noticed that it seems to be coming from out of a bolt on the passenger side of the fuel pump. I know nothing about these units, so I ask for your help.
Is it ok to just try tightening the bolt? Do I have to replace the pump? Is this where the check valve is? Can I just replace the valve?
I don't mind replacing the pump if that is the right thing to do, I just don't like replacing stuff I don't have to because the '82 has a long list of things I have to.
Obviously, I will NOT be driving this car until I get this right.
TIA,
Old 12-02-2008, 12:21 PM
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Jim bailey - 928 International
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There are soft metal crush washers which deform to make the seal. It MIGHT stop leaking if you tighten it BUT BIG BUT it is best to take it apart and put in new SOFT crush washers to avoid possibly overtightening. They are 12 mm ID and 16 MM OD "washers" ....
Old 12-02-2008, 01:08 PM
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Mrmerlin
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dont drop, hold with channel locks or any other tool the outside of the fuel pump housing, It is made of soft aluminum and there are magnets that slide on its inside surface, and they will crack if the above directions are not followed.
Also the end where the wires attach is sealed with an O ring then the pump housing is crimped dont pry on the edge of the pump as you can deform the housing and it will leak and be destroyed.
Try to spray some brake cleaner on the leaking area and towel dry it so find the leak if its the sealing washers put new one on as JB has suggested
Old 12-02-2008, 01:19 PM
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erwalker
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It depends on where the fuel is leaking from on the pump itself. If it's just a union, simply tightening it or some teflon tape on the threads might do the trick. I have an '82 as well and my pump was leaking from the top of the pump where there is a circular plate that is crimped into place. I've never taken it apart but I assume there is some type of seal there that had deteriorated over time. Bought a new pump and leak was cured. Was challenging to align all the connections so they would not cross thread and re-connecting the wires with the weather-proof caps was very APITA.
Old 12-02-2008, 01:29 PM
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Jim bailey - 928 International
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Some people have found that it is better to just remove the pump, filter and hard line from the car and do the job on a workbench. You need to pinch off the rubber line from the tank to the pump ( padded vicegrips work in a pinch ) before opening any of the connections on the filter or pump.
Old 12-02-2008, 03:46 PM
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Great advice guys. Thanks alot. BTW, any idea where I can get crush washers locally? I was just at an Autozone and they did not have any. I would certainly order one from Jim, I was just hoping not to wait for the part that I am sure can only be $1 or 2.
Thanks again,



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