PorKen

I think Bob has the best plan. Take out the plugs, and carefully rotate the crank back to -45°.

You must be able to see the top of the piston in number one cylinder, to be sure that you are in fact at number one. The balancer shows TDC for #1, and #6.

You can use the 32V'r (for either #1 or #6) to position the gears at 45° as you string the belt. Post a pic of the 32V'r after you have the belt on.

Don't worry about the exact cam degree right now. You can't tell from looking if they're off, only the 32V'r can show you that.

kaptnknemo

I followed the JKelly manual step by step, including marking the gears, I just missed the part where you rotate the crank to 45ATDC (oh and the step where you double check your work.)

So early Tomorrow morning I'll follow the Doc's plan and find the 32vr.


G'night Y'all

KK

dr bob

Ken -- TDC #1 and #6 is a crank function, 45º mark is a crank function. It's not until you time the cams to the crank that you differentiate between #1 and #6. I remember you mentioning this someplace, probably a Kibort thread.

Lizard928

Seeing as how if any damage has been done it will have already happened. I would just leave it at TDC, and put the cams on with the proper marks.

I actually always do all my TB jobs with the crank at TDC, 16 and 32Vers and there is enough clearance for the cams to move the little bit they need to and not cause any damage.

kaptnknemo

Man, you guys are up early. Not enough beer?

Some time ago, somebody put up a spreadsheet with, I think, piston position vs crank degrees. I shoulda saved it, cause this morning, Search isn't my friend.

I can see the piston in Cyl #1 and it is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch below below the surface where the spark plug seals. Please excuse the huge amount of tolerance as I measured it with the stick from a jalpeno popper. So I am at Crank AND Cyl#1 TDC. Because it was running OK before AND the cam gears rotated just enough to relieve valve spring load (you can see how much in previous pics) maybe I didn't bend anything!

I found http://www.iskycams.com/timingchart....ng_chart_id=96 on the web, is there anything close to it for a 32v Porsche V8?

kaptnknemo

Or is this normal?



This is a shot down the spark plug hole of Cyl#1. Is this what the top of a 150,000 mile piston should look like?

There are some small hard blobs outside the cylinder, i will try to get them out to see what they are. They are either non-magnetic or held in place by oil.

kaptnknemo

Here's the Crap




The largest piece is a chunk of baked rubber, it crushed easily. The other "big" piece is a flake of powder coat. Nothing to worry about. There are several other chunks of rubber and the rest is to small to ID. Sucked'em up with a brass tube duct taped to the hose of a mini vacuum...pretty clever eh.

928autobahndreamer

Holy Crap. Where did the rubber come from?

Ian928

That debris came from around the plug yes? I can not imagine that the rubber was found on top of the piston...

John Speake

Carbon, surely ?

the flyin' scotsman

If you read Dr Bobs post carefully please note the relationship between crank and cam position. The pistons 1 and 6 rise and fall at the same time but its the poistion of the cams that determine which cylinder is on compression or exhaust stroke.

You want the crank to be at 0 degrees and the cams at their respective TDC marks; the ones at the rear of the gears, string the belt, tension and do the compression test.

kaptnknemo

The crap came from around the plug hole, you can see it in one of the photos. You couldn't see it with the plug in. I will vacum out the rest of the holes before i remove the plugs.

I'm pretty sure the black bits and pieces were over baked rubber or plastic, just had that feel.

mark kibort

I dont know how far you are off right now, but you dont need to move things to the 45 degree mark if you are already close now. The point is that the cams shouldnt be moved around much, but they will vary freely around the TDC mark by about 22 degrees either way. (3 teeth). If you have the engine at TDC right now, and the cams can be moved slowly and freely a few teeth, just attach the belt, passenger side first. if it is way off, and you can move the crank to 45 degrees and then move the cams to the 45 degree mark. this mark will simply be 6 teeth off vs the standard timing adjustment mark. You dont need the special tool for this. its a simple visual thing.

as was said, once you have the engine strung with both cams timed via the timing marks, (either 45 or TDC marks) just do a compression test.

by the way, yes, thats what 150k mile pistons look like. Lots of carbon.

Mrmerlin

from the pictures of debris it looks like the boots of the plug wires, this is also an indication they you may need a new set of ignition wires and ends, the piston tops look like they have not had an Italian tune up in a long while, you may also have leaking injectors, usually indicated by either hard starting or white smoke when starting the car

kaptnknemo

Please see my next post. Thanks!