Intake assembly questions
I started the intake process,the wire harness to the injectors were glued in place. I was able to salvage 4 injectors and had to get 4 used. Now i have to put 8 new connectors for each injector just wondering if their is anything i should look out for,when crimpping new plugs on,also should i put the injectors in the intake before putting intake back in car. thanks heres some photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/26227918@N05/
I always put the injectors on the fuel rail, then insert them in the intake. Use a bit of lube to assist in the insertion. (man that sounded bad)
As for the connectors, besides taking breaks from cramping fingers, no real advice I can give. Sounds like you are on the right track though. Good luck and keep taking pictures.
As for the connectors, besides taking breaks from cramping fingers, no real advice I can give. Sounds like you are on the right track though. Good luck and keep taking pictures.
Thanks,i will try as you said,i had the intake sandblasted it came out nice, down to raw metal,i then primed and painted it,powder coating was too much money anyway it causes vac leaks,so i heard.
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I have a lot of experience working with electronics but I hate making up those Bosch connectors! Make sure you are using the right size crimp jaw on the crimping tool, and that the wire is pushed far enough into the connector that the insulation is gripped firmly at rear of connector.
My bugbear is that if a connection comes loose then I find it almost impossible to extract the pin from the plug once it's clicked into place, even with lots of probing and pushing down on the barb on top. I think there's a special tool to remove these pins from the plug?
If you can get the plugs ready made up with 'pigtails' then worth considering swapping/selling the existing plug kits you have. It's much easier to just splice the pigtails to old injector harness (butt connectors - no laughing at the back).
I would attach all the injectors to rail first so you can ensure the clips at top are correctly positioned. Then lube the lower o-rings and work the injectors back in together. I found when you had the fuel rail connectors lined up right the injectors would 'plop' nicely into the manifold. Firm pressure with wiggling works well.
My bugbear is that if a connection comes loose then I find it almost impossible to extract the pin from the plug once it's clicked into place, even with lots of probing and pushing down on the barb on top. I think there's a special tool to remove these pins from the plug?
If you can get the plugs ready made up with 'pigtails' then worth considering swapping/selling the existing plug kits you have. It's much easier to just splice the pigtails to old injector harness (butt connectors - no laughing at the back).
I would attach all the injectors to rail first so you can ensure the clips at top are correctly positioned. Then lube the lower o-rings and work the injectors back in together. I found when you had the fuel rail connectors lined up right the injectors would 'plop' nicely into the manifold. Firm pressure with wiggling works well.
I have a lot of experience working with electronics but I hate making up those Bosch connectors! Make sure you are using the right size crimp jaw on the crimping tool, and that the wire is pushed far enough into the connector that the insulation is gripped firmly at rear of connector.
My bugbear is that if a connection comes loose then I find it almost impossible to extract the pin from the plug once it's clicked into place, even with lots of probing and pushing down on the barb on top. I think there's a special tool to remove these pins from the plug?
If you can get the plugs ready made up with 'pigtails' then worth considering swapping/selling the existing plug kits you have. It's much easier to just splice the pigtails to old injector harness (butt connectors - no laughing at the back).
I would attach all the injectors to rail first so you can ensure the clips at top are correctly positioned. Then lube the lower o-rings and work the injectors back in together. I found when you had the fuel rail connectors lined up right the injectors would 'plop' nicely into the manifold. Firm pressure with wiggling works well.
My bugbear is that if a connection comes loose then I find it almost impossible to extract the pin from the plug once it's clicked into place, even with lots of probing and pushing down on the barb on top. I think there's a special tool to remove these pins from the plug?
If you can get the plugs ready made up with 'pigtails' then worth considering swapping/selling the existing plug kits you have. It's much easier to just splice the pigtails to old injector harness (butt connectors - no laughing at the back).
I would attach all the injectors to rail first so you can ensure the clips at top are correctly positioned. Then lube the lower o-rings and work the injectors back in together. I found when you had the fuel rail connectors lined up right the injectors would 'plop' nicely into the manifold. Firm pressure with wiggling works well.
I don't know a supplier for the 'pigtail' connectors but have seen them online and eBay. Just google for 'Bosch amphenol connectors' or 'Bosch 2-pin connectors' or similar. I got mine (plugs not pigtails) from a local tuning shop specialising in Japanese performance cars, so seems the Bosch connectors also used a lot by Japanese.
To splice just strip the old harness wire insulation off the correct amount to place the wire in one end of butt connector (looks like short rubber insulated tube, flared at each end), crimp this, then crimp the pigtail at the other end. Check with meter that you have continuity from plug to harness side of connector.
If you're not confident about crimping soundly (I'm not!) then I suppose you could just connect the wires up using screw terminal blocks. It doesn't get that hot in the area where injectors connect so I don't think there's an issue with the connectors having to be ultra-rugged.
Don't be tempted to twist connect the bare wires then wrap tape over them. If a short should develop (and the wiring is crammed tightly under the rail covers) then none of the injectors will fire.
To splice just strip the old harness wire insulation off the correct amount to place the wire in one end of butt connector (looks like short rubber insulated tube, flared at each end), crimp this, then crimp the pigtail at the other end. Check with meter that you have continuity from plug to harness side of connector.
If you're not confident about crimping soundly (I'm not!) then I suppose you could just connect the wires up using screw terminal blocks. It doesn't get that hot in the area where injectors connect so I don't think there's an issue with the connectors having to be ultra-rugged.
Don't be tempted to twist connect the bare wires then wrap tape over them. If a short should develop (and the wiring is crammed tightly under the rail covers) then none of the injectors will fire.
www.diyautotune.com has them with the pigtails for a reasonable price.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...-ev1-p-48.html

If you do it this way then you have to solder the wires together and use heatshrink on them.
Glad to see that you are doing the needed jobs on the car!
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...-ev1-p-48.html

If you do it this way then you have to solder the wires together and use heatshrink on them.
Glad to see that you are doing the needed jobs on the car!



