1st thing is the dash.

Some questions:
the blower resistor, is this easier to do with the dash out?
Is their anything else I might think about doing while I am in there?

Thanks
Kyle

 

Vacuum modulators, speedo gear, bulbs, clean dash connectors, check AC vacumm lines at manifold. I'm shure others will chime in.

Glenn

 

blower resistor is accessed from under the cowl close to the engine.

 

Yup....tahts' right, it's on the ouside. You'll have to feeez your butt of to work on it.

 

Shark Attack, possible tech session?

 

You can get the resistor pack replaced by using a piece of string to pull it out and to pull the new one into place via the rubber boot that connects that duct to the blower motor. You can use this opportunity to re-seal the base of the blower motor so you don't get leaks onto your fuse panel. Also clean out the blower and put some lube on the bearings. I've heard that the blower motor can be removed without removing the hood, but I've never seen it done that way. If you're removing the hood, and it needs a liner, do that at the same time.

 

The resistor pack is easy using the method Dave mentions. Bill Ball has a post here with photos that is very useful.

Be very careful with the rubber duct, they split easily. AMHIK.

I had my hood off and on by myself three times last month. Just mark the hinges and yank it. It makes the job so much easier.

Be sure and clean out any crap in the duct while it's open.

 

You might need to do some minor rewiring to accomodate a new blower resistor, depending on year of the car you are working on.

 

If your arms are skinny (like mine) you can remove the rubber boot and just reach in and hold the blower resistor pack as you unscrew it. A few cuts and scrapes and voila out she come!

 

If you're referring to the actual dash.. everthing that was mentioned to include internal temp sensor. Make sure you test function of all in-cabin vaccuum actuators. 2 are most easily accessed with the center console out. Test vaccuum actuators

The blower fan can be removed without taking off the hood. Requires loosening the front/right hinge bolt, and removing the rear/right. Now the right side of the hood can pivot up. You will have to loosen the right cowl trim piece to allow it to move out of the way slightly. Use tape on it to avoid removing paint. This will give you just enough room.

Unless you are replacing the hood insulation, this method is slightly easier.

 

The base of the blower had a foam/rubber gasket, and is located on top of the recirc box. The lowest point for water to drain into the cabin is the recirc box. If you have water leaking into the pax footwell, it is most likely the bulkhead seal btw the recirc and the firewall.

Interesting about lubing the blower. I cleaned mine but asssumed the bearings were sealed. Where would one apply lube?

 

Now you're talkin! If you guys do a tech session, take and post lots of pics.

 

I assume you would just put a drop on the bearing... IIRC Brian(IcemanG17) did this not too long ago. I'll probably be in there myself over Christmas break.

 

Someone, I think it was Roger, posted a how to of drilling a hole through the plastic over the shaft and oiling it from the top.

 

Me too. Need to go in.

Jim, gonna need some hood alignment help on this before its over.