Mongo

My fianc....err girlfriend is gonna kill me with the amount of goodies I wanna buy for this car...

Carl Fausett

We have not done one with our customers yet, but maybe someone will answer who has done the upgrade themselves.

I would expect lower emissions and not troouble passing inspection. All the OEM equipment (cats, air pump, etc) could be retained to satisfy the visual inspection, and the emissions will go down with the longer duration spark and more accurate fuel metering and timing events.

Mongo

I would love to put that to the test right now; unfortunately $3,000 is going to a house right now (damn priorities ) but I am seriously considering this later on.

I have read about numerous cars with TEC-3 and every single one of them has gained at least 8%-10% in HP from a more fuel efficient stand-alone setup.

PorKen

The timing belt drives the exhaust cam directly, to which the distributor rotor is attached. The rotor tip is extra wide to compensate for cam adjustments vis a vis the gear. The ignition event is taken from the crank, so it should not be compromised by valve timing events, at least.

That said, a COP or CNP system would be nice to have, if only for the C-factor.

Mongo

After reading the install and tuning manual online, does your setup come pre-programmed to run a near identical fuel map on the 928?

In short, can the car just start up and go after you plug and wire everything in, or are their still adjustments that need to be made via software? I do know that you have customized your EMS setups for each car, but I am trying to verify the ease of the install and drivability.

Lizard928

Andy,

I would not plan on being able to simply plug in and drive any standalone system. With how different every engine is you should be able to start up, and be able to drive it to the dyno. But that is where I would stop to have it properly tuned on the machine.

Mongo

I figured that it wasn't that easy. That's ok. As long as it can be driven safely to a dyno, that's all that would matter to me.

Mongo

I found this book in Borders a while back that I have been reading about aftermarket EFI and Stand-alone injection systems. Electromotive units are pretty much in the spotlight on this. Unfortunately it's nowhere near descriptive as the TEC3 book when it comes to troubleshooting. Right now, I'm gathering all the information I can on it. When it comes to installation, I am wondering where both the Mass Air Pressure and the Manifold Air Temperature sensors could be drilled and tapped into the S4/GT intake. My theory is on the removable sides of the intake, but that is not exactly a sufficient pressure spot.

I could be wrong though...

Mongo

stupid question... does it matter if the car is an automatic?

Charley B

There is only one stupid question. "What is the meaning of life?".

Lizard928

Well I could answer both of those questions, but I think I will leave the latter alone

no it doesnt matter that you have an auto, except your left leg might get jealous. Hope you dont loose a shoe in that fight

Mongo

LOL

Last 928 I drove that was manual was an '85 and that was FAST.



Hey Carl I have some questons..

I don't see that TEC3 can be tuned through the MAF also according to Electromotive's website. If it can be tuned via MAF like the stock LH does, is it no longer necessary to even use a MAP sensor? If the MAP is necessary, where would you recommend installing it on an S4 manifold for optimum accuracy.

Where would you recommend mounting the threaded temperature sensor at, and do I need to drill and weld to adapt the sensor to the magnesium manifold (isn't welding magnesium dangerous???)

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm really interested to see how these Stand-Alones work and I would really like to adapt this to my aging 928.

Lizard928

Carl, feel free to correct any info I have given as mine is not specific to your setup.

Andy,
most standalone systems would not retain the use of the MAF, hence the need for the IAT sensor.
They would use the MAP and IAT instead of the MAF. While you can add the MAF into the system as well or instead. Most would not as they age and are not needed with the technology out there today.

As to mounting the sensor, I have drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the air box. Basic rule for IAT sensors is that you do not want to mount them in metal. Plastic is far better due to heat soak issues skewing your numbers.

dprantl

As for the MAP sensor installation, that is really easy. You can mount it pretty much anywhere and choose where to connect the vacuum line.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Mongo

I have read stories about bad EMS installs resulting in a delayed pressure signal. Most examples being owners of turbo converted import cars with either a 1 inch vacuum line or a foot long one plugging into the MAP. This results in faulty or delayed meausurements due to delayed signal or air pulses in the manifold. That is probably my biggest concern. Other than that, I would love to ditch the MAF even though it is literally an NOS from Porsche.