ride height adjustment help
11-09-2008, 08:14 PM
#46
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mark,
The car is still not at the correct ride height even with the adjsuters off this much in the rear. The pass. side is still higher than the drivers side, even with that much less adjustment cranked in it. I was just a little less adjustment on the pass than the drivers rear and i cranked it down that much (~1") as a test. with all that less adjustment, the ride height only reduced by 3mm. (see post #17).
The car is still not at the correct ride height even with the adjsuters off this much in the rear. The pass. side is still higher than the drivers side, even with that much less adjustment cranked in it. I was just a little less adjustment on the pass than the drivers rear and i cranked it down that much (~1") as a test. with all that less adjustment, the ride height only reduced by 3mm. (see post #17).
11-09-2008, 08:56 PM
#47
Team Owner
Mike please measure all 4 of the shocks internal threaded rings and compare each axle. A zip tie will also give you accurate measurments.
Also count each spring and make sure they all have the same number of coils.That each axle has the same color, And i need to know what colors they are, thanks
We are trying to find out why there is such a mismatch either there is a wrong spring or there is a problem with one of the threaded collars not being fitted to the shock tube or the suspension is binding. Are you sure that you have fitted the beveled washers correctly on the rear shocks? did you ever see if the rear lower shock mount pins are straight?
Also count each spring and make sure they all have the same number of coils.That each axle has the same color, And i need to know what colors they are, thanks
We are trying to find out why there is such a mismatch either there is a wrong spring or there is a problem with one of the threaded collars not being fitted to the shock tube or the suspension is binding. Are you sure that you have fitted the beveled washers correctly on the rear shocks? did you ever see if the rear lower shock mount pins are straight?
11-09-2008, 09:02 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
with swaybar disconnected, both front and rear?
the only way that the car wont drop, is if something is keeping it up . (friction in the bushings, swaybar, etc) and remember, the motion ratio is probaby substantial, so 1" of spring drop, should be more than that at the tire.
do you have a stiff swaybar up front? if it is connected, the rear cant drop if the front cant move as you drop a rear corner, the opposite corner has to drop some too.
beveled washers installed incorrectly will make a mess of the rear end, but it wont hurt ability to change ride hight.
stock ride hight is pretty high and corner weights can be all over the place. generally, that passenger corner can be so light that it might not have any incentive to move down that much. take that adjuster all the way down and see what happens. Im guessing that the sway bar is not disconnected front and rear.
the only way that the car wont drop, is if something is keeping it up . (friction in the bushings, swaybar, etc) and remember, the motion ratio is probaby substantial, so 1" of spring drop, should be more than that at the tire.
do you have a stiff swaybar up front? if it is connected, the rear cant drop if the front cant move as you drop a rear corner, the opposite corner has to drop some too.
beveled washers installed incorrectly will make a mess of the rear end, but it wont hurt ability to change ride hight.
stock ride hight is pretty high and corner weights can be all over the place. generally, that passenger corner can be so light that it might not have any incentive to move down that much. take that adjuster all the way down and see what happens. Im guessing that the sway bar is not disconnected front and rear.
11-09-2008, 09:47 PM
#49
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The rear sway bar is completely disconnected. It is the stock bar with Ott links. The front sway bar is still connected and is also completely stock with stock links. I will take more measurements and get back to you all. I will have to remove the shocks to check the bevelled washers right?
11-10-2008, 04:05 AM
#50
Rennlist Member
Yes, i have those too. in order for the rear to drop, the front might have to be disconnected as well. It really depends on your corner weights. the good news is that most all 928s are near the same and you can almost eyeball them to get close. since you are near the limits of the front suspension. (with those springs) there is not much you can do but bring all the adjusters to the lowest levels. the good news is, you can cut the springs if you want to lower the car a little and get some adjustment in the chassis. (however it will be a stiffer ride as the spring rates will go up about 150-200lbs a corner).
Regarding the bevelled washers, you can easily see if they are correct by how things align up with all the components, shock and bolt. that wouldnt matter anyway. if they were not correct, you could move the rear wheel with your hands when its up on jacks, as it would seen there would be no toe control. (i.e. it would feel loose by yankning, pulling, pushing, on the rear wheel).
I would take that rear adjuster and move it down some more. again, where you are now is not that far off where it can be under normal conditions.
what are your ride hights rigth now? Post them if you can.
I would drop that corner a few more turns and see what happens.
mk
edit: i forgot to ask, are these stock springs or some upgraded versions?
Regarding the bevelled washers, you can easily see if they are correct by how things align up with all the components, shock and bolt. that wouldnt matter anyway. if they were not correct, you could move the rear wheel with your hands when its up on jacks, as it would seen there would be no toe control. (i.e. it would feel loose by yankning, pulling, pushing, on the rear wheel).
I would take that rear adjuster and move it down some more. again, where you are now is not that far off where it can be under normal conditions.
what are your ride hights rigth now? Post them if you can.
I would drop that corner a few more turns and see what happens.
mk
edit: i forgot to ask, are these stock springs or some upgraded versions?
The rear sway bar is completely disconnected. It is the stock bar with Ott links. The front sway bar is still connected and is also completely stock with stock links. I will take more measurements and get back to you all. I will have to remove the shocks to check the bevelled washers right?
Last edited by mark kibort; 11-10-2008 at 04:36 AM.
11-10-2008, 04:23 AM
#51
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Just a thought
Xlot and I have been discussing this very issue
I think we concluded that adjusting the heights means you need to settle the suspension as if you'ld lifted the car before confirming that your adjustment was succesful.
He noted that following ride height adjustment his '89 was taking approx 150 miles of driving to finish responding to ride height adjustments.
And I noted that the 90GT when I adjusted one wheel to increase it's ride height by 10mm (Rear moved the adjuster about 8mm up) the ride height on that wheel went down instantly - What the ??????? .
I have since realised that one of the front shocks has the top mounting plate on upside down so I need to sort that first before I go and redo the ride heights. - This is annoying as the shocks and springs were transferred off my 88SE which had spot on ride height and was corner balanced to within about 30kgs
Xlot and I have been discussing this very issue
I think we concluded that adjusting the heights means you need to settle the suspension as if you'ld lifted the car before confirming that your adjustment was succesful.
He noted that following ride height adjustment his '89 was taking approx 150 miles of driving to finish responding to ride height adjustments.
And I noted that the 90GT when I adjusted one wheel to increase it's ride height by 10mm (Rear moved the adjuster about 8mm up) the ride height on that wheel went down instantly - What the ??????? .
I have since realised that one of the front shocks has the top mounting plate on upside down so I need to sort that first before I go and redo the ride heights. - This is annoying as the shocks and springs were transferred off my 88SE which had spot on ride height and was corner balanced to within about 30kgs
11-10-2008, 04:35 AM
#52
Rennlist Member
sounds like some settling issues or something else "upside down".
cornerweights should be pretty close to 0. I think ive got mine to within a few lbs. of course, front to rear weights are set up to a near race car best of about 55/45%
mk
cornerweights should be pretty close to 0. I think ive got mine to within a few lbs. of course, front to rear weights are set up to a near race car best of about 55/45%
mk
Just a thought
Xlot and I have been discussing this very issue
I think we concluded that adjusting the heights means you need to settle the suspension as if you'ld lifted the car before confirming that your adjustment was succesful.
He noted that following ride height adjustment his '89 was taking approx 150 miles of driving to finish responding to ride height adjustments.
And I noted that the 90GT when I adjusted one wheel to increase it's ride height by 10mm (Rear moved the adjuster about 8mm up) the ride height on that wheel went down instantly - What the ??????? .
I have since realised that one of the front shocks has the top mounting plate on upside down so I need to sort that first before I go and redo the ride heights. - This is annoying as the shocks and springs were transferred off my 88SE which had spot on ride height and was corner balanced to within about 30kgs
Xlot and I have been discussing this very issue
I think we concluded that adjusting the heights means you need to settle the suspension as if you'ld lifted the car before confirming that your adjustment was succesful.
He noted that following ride height adjustment his '89 was taking approx 150 miles of driving to finish responding to ride height adjustments.
And I noted that the 90GT when I adjusted one wheel to increase it's ride height by 10mm (Rear moved the adjuster about 8mm up) the ride height on that wheel went down instantly - What the ??????? .
I have since realised that one of the front shocks has the top mounting plate on upside down so I need to sort that first before I go and redo the ride heights. - This is annoying as the shocks and springs were transferred off my 88SE which had spot on ride height and was corner balanced to within about 30kgs
11-10-2008, 06:14 AM
#53
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
My bad - I omitted to say that the decrease when it should have increased was immediately after adjusting - GT hadn't moved out of the garage.
11-12-2008, 09:38 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, just got finished measuring the rear shocks. They are both identical from the bottom of the threaded adjustment piece to the bottom of the shock. As for the colors of the springs, you can see them in the pics I posted. Greens for the fronts and yellows for the rears. What's next guys? Should I pull all of the shocks off the car?
11-12-2008, 09:45 PM
#55
Team Owner
go drive the car and remeasure at least 25 miles
11-12-2008, 10:59 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Just some obvious points about leveling your car. Make sure your tire pressures are dead nuts. Make sure you are on a level surface. Try and park your car in the exact same spot when you take another set of measurements. Make sure your gas tank is around 1/2 full as 23 gallons of gas weighs ~138 lbs.
Don't expect to sneak under your car and turn the adjusters and get an accurate measurement at the 'nibs'.
There is just too much 'stiction' in the suspension. Plus, the tires want to move in or out when you make adjustments. The car must be driven after each adjustment and rechecked each time. Even rechecking the ride height without doing any adjustments does not guarantee you will get the same numbers again.
Don't expect to sneak under your car and turn the adjusters and get an accurate measurement at the 'nibs'.
There is just too much 'stiction' in the suspension. Plus, the tires want to move in or out when you make adjustments. The car must be driven after each adjustment and rechecked each time. Even rechecking the ride height without doing any adjustments does not guarantee you will get the same numbers again.
11-12-2008, 11:24 PM
#57
Drifting
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For me, after just a few beers the ride height measurements change a lot, and then after driving and a few more beers they are even worse.
j/k...
I do love my 600/400 and revalved Bilsteins. Fast-ready stuff.
j/k...
I do love my 600/400 and revalved Bilsteins. Fast-ready stuff.
05-20-2016, 01:47 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
Helpful stuff on ride height for me as an owner of only 6 months.
I am a little low. 156 mm front, 167 mm rear.
She looks fine, but I would like to raise up front somewhat as the clearance over speed bumps is marginal, say just 10 mm would be fine. But the adjusters don't want to move.
Can they be freed off on the car.. tried WD40, maybe heat them up a bit..?
or do they have to come off and be attacked on the bench.
Peter
bedfordman, 1991, S4, UK
I am a little low. 156 mm front, 167 mm rear.
She looks fine, but I would like to raise up front somewhat as the clearance over speed bumps is marginal, say just 10 mm would be fine. But the adjusters don't want to move.
Can they be freed off on the car.. tried WD40, maybe heat them up a bit..?
or do they have to come off and be attacked on the bench.
Peter
bedfordman, 1991, S4, UK
05-20-2016, 02:21 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
Peter,
They get dirty and the grit keeps them from moving. Clean them very very well and use a real lubricant. WD40 is not really a lubricant but a water displacement product.
After you clean and lubricate, you might have to move it back and forth a bit to get away from the grit that has made it down into the adjuster threads, but keep careful track of exactly where you started from as far as adjustments.
The last time I adjusted, I could do it with the wheels on the ground and the steering turned all the way to one side. You may have to raise the wheel off the ground for your car, but then you will have to drive it to get the suspension to settle.
Don't forget also: When you adjust the ride height, you MUST get the car re-aligned once it settles.
They get dirty and the grit keeps them from moving. Clean them very very well and use a real lubricant. WD40 is not really a lubricant but a water displacement product.
After you clean and lubricate, you might have to move it back and forth a bit to get away from the grit that has made it down into the adjuster threads, but keep careful track of exactly where you started from as far as adjustments.
The last time I adjusted, I could do it with the wheels on the ground and the steering turned all the way to one side. You may have to raise the wheel off the ground for your car, but then you will have to drive it to get the suspension to settle.
Don't forget also: When you adjust the ride height, you MUST get the car re-aligned once it settles.
