View Poll Results: What is going to be needed (all options include a water pump and timing belt job)
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To Build or Not to Build, that is the Question
11-04-2008 | 01:38 PM
#16
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From: Helsinki, Finland
As for the original question about rebuild. Pull engine, dismantle it and then deside if its easily rebuildable or not. If it is doable with normal ammount of work I think its much better to rebuild it instead of puting in another engine where its unknown how long it will work.
11-04-2008 | 01:44 PM
#17
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
their are no lost bolts/ washers,cyl heads were cleaned of before intake was removed intake ports were inspected before reassymbly,gaskets stuck to intake runners so no gasket scraping on heads .the intake valves look like new the noise was hydrolocking of cyl 8 .Car arrived red hot smelling like anti freeze .Owner was asked if a compression test could be done because the engine didnt sound rite and i was told to just do the intakes he just changed the plugs and they were fine.
Pull the engine and replace the block, piston and connecting rod for that cyl are destroyed.
11-04-2008 | 02:22 PM
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From: Anaheim California
their are no lost bolts/ washers,cyl heads were cleaned of before intake was removed intake ports were inspected before reassymbly,gaskets stuck to intake runners so no gasket scraping on heads .the intake valves look like new the noise was hydrolocking of cyl 8 .Car arrived red hot smelling like anti freeze . Owner was asked if a compression test could be done because the engine didnt sound rite and i was told to just do the intakes he just changed the plugs and they were fine.
I kinda figured that was left out, Jim. 
11-04-2008 | 06:54 PM
#22
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From: saratoga, ca
easy!
just rings, head gasket, seals and bearings. Add some labor of your own and there you have it. rebuild for less than 1500.
(as long as the pistons and block are ok) In this case with water in the cylinders for so long, i would have my doubts.
a better rebuid, no much more expensive, would be to get a used short block for $1000 and re ring and seal it. Or, if it is in good shape, just stick it in with new gaskets and seals. doing the labor yourself is the only way to keep this job under 1k.
mk
just rings, head gasket, seals and bearings. Add some labor of your own and there you have it. rebuild for less than 1500.
(as long as the pistons and block are ok) In this case with water in the cylinders for so long, i would have my doubts.
a better rebuid, no much more expensive, would be to get a used short block for $1000 and re ring and seal it. Or, if it is in good shape, just stick it in with new gaskets and seals. doing the labor yourself is the only way to keep this job under 1k.
mk
11-04-2008 | 07:47 PM
#23
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So Kevin spent some time going over the car with a fine toothed comb today, and a number of issues came to light that weren't indicated by the owner....the hatch has rust bubbles just starting around the spoiler and hatch lock, and a dent at the roofline of the hatch, the rear bumper is caved in and needs bumper shocks, the interior is just ok everywhere else, but the seats and rear quarter covers need to be replaced. Under the hood, all the rubber could use replacing. Most of it snaps in your hands. The coolant reservoir is also starting to crack.
The car has new tires, and, according to the owner, new brakes and shocks.
Kevin was asked to test drive the car at our drive a few weeks ago, but declined because of how the engine sounded and smelled. It really is a miracle the car made it to our house at all. But like a stray dog, it won't go away now!
(Just kidding, dude...it's all good.)
But the real bottom line is that the amount of money the owner will have to invest here could buy another parts car that runs already.
The car has new tires, and, according to the owner, new brakes and shocks.
Kevin was asked to test drive the car at our drive a few weeks ago, but declined because of how the engine sounded and smelled. It really is a miracle the car made it to our house at all. But like a stray dog, it won't go away now!
(Just kidding, dude...it's all good.)But the real bottom line is that the amount of money the owner will have to invest here could buy another parts car that runs already.
11-05-2008 | 12:19 PM
#29
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Ok, for the sake of argument, I just called a local machine shop that we trust...and the only one in the area we can say that about. I think we all agree that at minimum the heads need to be rebuilt.
I was quoted $500 per head if the only thing needed was guides, decking and a valve job. But valves and anything else needed would be extra.
So that kills a bit over $1k when you consider tax. An engine reseal kit will be about $450, and a water pump and timing belt kit will run another $200-400, depending on what the guy buys, plus tensioner rebuild and roller, bushings and tensioner bolt.
This budget is already well over the $1500 hoped for, and that's assuming all the cam tower bolts come out without breaking, and the cylinders/pistons have no damage. It also doesn't count the needed clutch fan or electric conversion, clogged cats or consumables (fluids, cleaners, etc.) Or the coolant reservoir. Or any of the hoses and other rubber under the hood.
Kevin knows he's wasting his time, but the affected head will come off some time this week anyway. Pics will follow...
I was quoted $500 per head if the only thing needed was guides, decking and a valve job. But valves and anything else needed would be extra.
So that kills a bit over $1k when you consider tax. An engine reseal kit will be about $450, and a water pump and timing belt kit will run another $200-400, depending on what the guy buys, plus tensioner rebuild and roller, bushings and tensioner bolt.
This budget is already well over the $1500 hoped for, and that's assuming all the cam tower bolts come out without breaking, and the cylinders/pistons have no damage. It also doesn't count the needed clutch fan or electric conversion, clogged cats or consumables (fluids, cleaners, etc.) Or the coolant reservoir. Or any of the hoses and other rubber under the hood.
Kevin knows he's wasting his time, but the affected head will come off some time this week anyway. Pics will follow...
11-05-2008 | 12:34 PM
#30
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
I don’t get it…….If the owner doesn't have the money to fix the engine one way or another, why are you guys even bothering to take the engine apart? For $1500, the ONLY way he can get the car back into running order is to replace the existing engine with a good used one. Even then, considering all the other issues (fan, etc.) the $1500 might be a bit tight. I think you guys should be compensated for the work as well so $1500 for a straight swap and labour is just about enough.