thanks for the info

 

The 4 speed transmission seal kit, which you can ID as part number 126 270 530 0 on the PET has a bunch of O-rings and gaskets (All ID'd on the PET).

That kit can be gotten in 3 days from Rog for about $70. Great if you want to perform a simple reseal.

You have to pick-through the parts diagrams, which should be done anyway, to see if anything else is needed, like the TC seals, TC bearings, etc, that might be included in the overhall kits, but not the reseal kit.

I'm glad you made this post, IndyMat, because I have a similar thing occurring on a car I just got. But mine upshifts very firmly under heavy power.

Its under low power that the flare occurs 2-3, feels like a slip. Am going to start with vac check & vac modulator adjustment.

I also have a delay for R engagement. This has been diagnosed by the expertsa s decomposing B3 friction plates, a very typical Mercedes / 928 problem. Am hoping to do a reseal, change the B3 plates, change the TC bearings and seals, and pump seals, and spring kit. Am hoping I don't have to perform a full disassembly, am too absent minded to remember reassembly sequence these days.

 

If you get it rebuild I would definetely go to one of the 928 vendors here on Rennlist and do an exchange. Chances are very high that you will get shafted going to any transmission shop for a rebuild. Just search the archives, nothing but horror stories for tranny rebuilds from shady transmission shops.

 

Yeah, I was looking at the 928 International rebuilds but again the freight would be pretty steep to Indy. This would be the second project for this fall/winter season. I got to replace the PS Pump and do the TB/WP service as well. While I am doing those projects I am going to replace all of the hoses to the radiator as well.

 

I did the rack and all the PS lines a few years back so I'm failure with those projects and am adept at R&Ring the radiator. Need to be careful when removing the transmission cooling lines since they are connected to plastic. I picked up a few bigger wrenches needed to counter hold. Also, I have the porken tension gauge and Han's has the fly wheel lock needed for the TB/WP project. You can borrow any of these if you like.

If we both need rebuilds, maybe it would be reasonable to drive them to upstate NY. Roughly 600 miles each way, my truck get roughly 18 MPG (sometimes better), at $3/gal that’s only $200 round trip. I wonder how much freight really costs. A 40 lb stereo rack from Charlotte to Indy set me back $100, but that was via UPS. There max weight is 150 lb which might be enough, roughly $125.

Anyone have a rough idea how much an automatic transmission weights?

 

Steve Cattaneo in NY could do a rebuild, and it's less than half the distance from IN to NY than IN to CA...

 

The full auto trans with diff is about 225 lbs too heavy for UPS .

 

Hi Jim,
Do you guys have any connections with freight companies for shipping transmissions or any idea of approximate cost to Indiana?

 

Probably $ 250.

 

So would that be $250 to send the transmission to us and then another $250 to send ours to you for a core charge?

 

The transmission has 130,000 miles on it and the car was not maintained the best. So, a rebuild would probably be the best option on her. Either way, I am going to have to drop the tranny to do the differential bearing, TT and bearings, and to stop the leak as well. So if I am dropping the tranny, I will be either rebuilding or putting a rebuilt in.

 

I would strongly advise against using UPS for transmission shipments.
My last tranny from UPS got damaged, then lost, then recoverd, lost agian, stolen, swapped for paper and then returned to the shipper in pieces after two month...

 

adam did a pretty good thread on rebuilding a 928 slushbox a while ago.

if you choose to rebuild locally - make sure they only use MB bands, no rebuilt crap. also get the latest version of the servo (4 versions all progressively better), oil filter (2 versions), the bigger resevoiur, replace ALL the internal seals, chk the planetary gears for issues, replace ALL the clutches, and use all the latest upgraded gaskets. there are 4 versions of the vacume module too. red/brown/green/black. green is stockish for a 928, I used brown which seems a bit quicker. also make sure the gaskets are fresh. some sit around for a while and are almost worthless cause they dry out.

edge did a decent job and does stand behind their work w/no questions asked. but my 1st unit they put in the wrong impeller and the stall dropped down to 1300. was super tight and great for racing once moving. also good for a MB but not off the line for a trackster 928. the next time it was a bit too high. I don't think they know what to do w/a stroker. it's easier for a stockish motor for them, as the stroker is kinda torquey and doesn't fit the normal profiles.

I'll prolly have to pull it again and get it lowered a bit eventually. but it's just a nit-pick item. runs fine. an adjustable TC would be awesome.

you can also put extra clutch packs in your trans to help w/the shifting. gotta talk to a pro for details though.

I'd put fresh clutches in the LSD too. many get worn out at only 40k miles. if you are at 130k, they are prolly toast.

928 intl uses a builder that is top shelf. (ted). he's a total MB trans nutjob, does excellent work. steve knows his stuff too. anyone else is a crapshoot, imo. U might interview/ask them about the above parts, and if their eyes start to glaze over, run for the door.

slipping issues could also be from the vacume modulator or valve body. was the fluid burned? crap in the filter? you can kinda see the bands by dropping the valve body. if they are not toast, then U might not need an OH.

 

For some reason I thought Steve Cattaneo lived in upstate NY. Turns out he’s in Orange County which is practically all the way to the city. That’s more like 750 miles or $125 each way just in gas and goggle puts it at about 12 hrs. I’m probably going to see what sort of local options are available first if an OH is really needed.

Also, do a search using "Cattaneo" and a lot of relavent A/T threads pop up... my printer will be busy tonight.

 

Euro Motorworks quoted me $2300 to rebuild if I bring in the transmission and $3900 if they perform the R&R. I asked to see in writing what all this includes. He said all friction and common wear items plus seals. He’s checking if the B2 piston is included in the kit.

Of course in typical fashion they started really high with a factory rebuilt R&R quote at $7900. They are probably the steepest shop in Indy outside of the dealerships, but also have an excellent reputation. The only complaint I’ve ever heard about them is their price which I’ve experienced several time first hand.

I also heard good things about Don Hamlin at World Class Carcare, but he sent me to Aamco after looking at my Mercedes transmission. Aamco eventually figured out it was a short in the cable harness, but that was after they changed out and charged me for a bunch of other parts first.

According to Angie’s list, Edwards’s transmission is the worst and Aamco was average. However, Jeff Bradley was number one by a long shot and after working with him on several vehicles, I’d trust him if he says he can do it. I’ll bug him next.