cold_beer839

Studded spacers were never an option for me due to the long GTS studs.

The issue I have with cutting the stock studs down and cutting in the threads a little further down is that I think they would cross thread much easier.

Alan

I really don't see why it would be any different...? the new threaded portion would be fine - by the time the lug nut it gets there its well threaded. The cutoff portion - I'd suggest getting some hard steel nuts on the studs anyway - 2 & lock them together to set the cutoff point - then when done screw them back on a bit file down any rough edges at the cutoff (bevel a bit like stock) then unscrew the steel nuts to chase out the threads - done - and no risk of any cutoff damage from an angle grinder/saw on the remaining portion of the threads . You may sacrifice a few cheap steel nuts - but a good trade off. Backup plan - if everything goes to hell - swap for shorter studs anyway...

The threading tools I was thinking of are like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/8-PC-SMALL-QUALI...1%7C240%3A1318

This is for a lathe - the one my father had did include a T handle - but its possbible he fabricated it himself.

Alan

cold_beer839

I have ordered the spacers, when they come in I'll see if this can be done.

mark kibort

you dont need to replace the bearing to get to the studs , do you ?
I want to remove my hubs and put some long studs on there, to get away from the bolt on spacer which are not really for racing.

come over and help me change out the hubs and ill give you the bolt on spacers

mk

Alan

Seems Dave has the wheels on - (tell us more - Photo's).

He asked me how to disable the RDK. So for the benefit of all here goes:

Remove the connection from the RDK unit up under the dash (under the pod above the pedals towards the steering wheel - at least on a GTS - assume its the same for all so equipped?). There is a spring clip that secures it at the cable end and it hinges out that end first. The unit can stay (metalic box). Connect pins 2 & 13 on the plug and secure the jumper (tape). Then secure the plug so it stays up out of the way - Done.

You can find crimp terminals that will ~fit the plug - but many have just used a wire. Just make sure its firmly secured. Consider an aftermarket monitoring system instead for safety - there are many programmable and much better systems that monitor pressure & temperature.

Alan

mark kibort

are you sure we have to pull the rear wheel bearing to change the rear studs? I thought once the rear hub was removed from the car, the studs could be pressed out. I want to removed my bolt on spacers and install longer studs too. How long of a stud would i need if im using a 17mm spacer now and replace it with a hub centric slip on spacer? 17mm longer than stock? Probably longer since i would want the capabiltiy of going wider someday. ( and i use open lugs on the race car)

mk

cold_beer839

Thanks for that info Alan.

Here are some pictures of my GTS with the 18"x8" and 18"11" Carrera III's. 235's front and 295's rear. They fit well with a 15mm spacer. I'll cut the studs down to size a little later. Right now I have open end lugs on with the stock closed-end lugs on top of them. The lugs stick out only a little bit. Next stop will be new Bilsteins and alignment by Brad at Digital Chassis.

Chuck Schreiber

David,

Did you end up going with 295/35s or 295/30s ?? BTW, love the look!!
Looks a hell of alot more agressive than the 265s on the rear of mine with the C3s!

cold_beer839

They are 295/35's. It looks so much better than the stock 255/40-17's. The car had almost a tricycle look from the rear with the stock wheels and tires because they were spaced so far outward to fill in the fender flares.

Stock 255's on 17's top pic, 295's on 18's bottom pic.