Marine Blue

I'm confused. I thought on pre GTS sharks the passenger side liners do not go all the way around. Seems it's only in front and on top for the passenger side. The drivers side does go all the way around.

I would be willing to lend my liners to someone over the winter if they want to make duplicates our of another material but they won't be the same as the GTS Liners. so it will only work for S4's and GT's. Only Caveat is that they need to come back in the same condition.

wds928

I had my right-rear liner off yesterday for cleaning and to change the bulb in the marker light and small pieces just broke off. The material is about as thick as 2x roofing felt, with a rubber type coating, but much more brittle. Big time POS.

Any surfboard makers out there?? Make a foam mold, then hand laid fiberglass about 1/8th inch thick would do the trick.

ROG100

Afshin,
The GTS foam type full liners were fitted to some of the 91 cars.
According to PET a full liner without the foam backing was available as well but all the numbers are NLA so thats a mute point.
Earlier cars had splash shields at the front and rear of the rear fenders apart from the rear part of the right rear fender.
The rear guard from the left rear fender fits the right rear rear when you flip it over and cut about 1" of the top of it.

Making the full fender liner with the foam is not as easy as it looks.
I am also convinced it is not required. IMO it was added to the GTS for extra noise insulation. The difference with and without is negligible. That is why I coated my fender with the thick "bed liner" and will add the splash shields after she gets back from the paint shop.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Roger is correct it was just a bit more sound deadning that plus the thicker denser foam under the carpets...

Alan

I think fiberglass would probably be too brittle too - something tough & yet a little flexible like the fronts seems to be the ticket - at the front the splash shields seem to crack up easily (rigid material & gets brittle over time) - but the liners are really strong and stay flexible...

Alan

ROG100

The rear gaurds I am using are flat plastic similiar to what was used on the very early cars and unlike the front splash shields that crack. I also fill the front cavity in the rear fender with foam for good measure.

Alan

Roger - any pictures of this - are these aftermarket - or the early Porsche type...

What kind of foam have you used for this - spray in or packed in by hand?

Alan

Larry Velk

I purchased the XR4ti front liners from (I think) "Just Dashes" - in any case a Yahoo search will find the company. They were made of, it appears, the stuff they use for GM rigid door panels as the reverse side has a fake leather grain embossed. They cost maybe $150 EACH and this is for a car that often struggles to be worth $500. They are also made wrong and require much work to fit properly. Liners from other US made vehicles have been used (early Taurus in the case of the XR). The US made plastic seems much more resiliant. Our climate range in the North American market seems to inspire more toughness in these parts. I can't imagine what car might fit a 928, but it isn't a crazy idea as you can fab up mounts using the 'Lord Fusor', as I noted. I dramatically modified the purchased liners and the repair has held up.

hitbyastick

I have some body filler here at the house. Mind you, it's for plastic bumpers and remains really flexible so long as it is cured and properly attached to the piece. I've used it on a vw jetta with all the plastic/flexible bumper covers. It would have to be painted to match though as it's greenish when it's cured.

ROG100

Alan,
I used the insulation type foam you buy at Home Depot. I used some blocks of styrofoam to act as filler and give the foam some extra strength.
The splash shields are the Porsche ones.
For the GTS use the following : -
Left & Right rear rear 928 504 309 03 - $32.95 each
Left rear front 928 504 303 03 - $32.95
Right rear front 928 504 304 03 - $32.95

For inside the fender I used the "bed liner" from your fav auto shop

Nicole

Thanks for all the input! It should not be that hard to find somebody who could make those. I just don't know how many would have to be made to make this feasible. But IF they could be made for reasonable cost, with a durable material, I think they would be a great upgrade for older model cars.

BTW: The changes in sound deadening from 91 onwards reduced cabin noise by 3 dB/A. I understand that means the noise is supposed to be cut in half. Not convinced that's the reality here...

Christoph: That stuff sounds interesting - but we'd have to try, if it sticks to the material. If it does, could the whole thing be coated in it, and then painted?

Alan

Too right - there is a ready market for this - it would be a good retrofit for all models improvement to function on earlier models and to materials on the later models. Plenty or room for a resonable price (profit margin) and still major savings to the owners!

Alan

ROG100

As they say in the "Dragons Den" - I'm out.
The cost for setup alone does not show a favorable return.
Selling price would be circa $300 each - $600 per car, due to high labor content.
The molds for series production would be very high $.

I also see no advantage over my own fix which is way cheaper at $70 per fender.

If you want some additional sound proofing line the fender with "brown bread" or similar before you spray on the bed liner. That will make it even better than the original stock $1200 liners.

H2

I ressurected some liners by using shaped pieces thin stainless tin, then drilled holes through the tin and liner on both sides of the crack or hole (both drilled at same time), and then used pop rivets backed with aluminum washers to hold the tin pieces in place. Then paint it black or spray with bed liner and very few people (if any) will notice. Also works on spoilers. Simple, cheap, and practically as strong as original.

H2

Nicole

My worry would be: What do the rivets and washers hold-on to? This material breaks at a soft touch, so it would likely break around rivets and washers as well.

I wish there was a simple way of reproducing such things. It doesn't look like rocket science - they are not injection molded. But you definitely need some kind of form to make this.

Anybody reading vintage car magazines? Maybe we need to look there for ads. Somebody must be able to make this...