oil pan gasket replacement
#16
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Barring a 2-post lift, Ken's liftbars (or 4 jackstands) and an engine hoist bar will give you the most clearance under the engine compartment:
If you don't want to slurge for liftbars, check out Tony Harkin's website for getting cars high up on blocks (http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/torque.htm)
You can get the car pretty high on the liftbars and 6-ton stands from HF (I'm limited by the rise of my jack):
I hate being under the car too, especially in earthquake country. I just jiggle the heck out of the car to ensure it's stable before I climb under.
If you don't want to slurge for liftbars, check out Tony Harkin's website for getting cars high up on blocks (http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/torque.htm)
You can get the car pretty high on the liftbars and 6-ton stands from HF (I'm limited by the rise of my jack):
I hate being under the car too, especially in earthquake country. I just jiggle the heck out of the car to ensure it's stable before I climb under.
#17
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I too am nervouse under the car. I use porken's lift bars (love them) and try to alwasy put additional supports in key areas should the car slip for any reason.
Lately I've been putting 2 large 4 x 10 (?) blocks under the wheels or suspension bits if the wheels are off. I don't have the wheels touching the blocks, but the blocks just fit under them.
In the area that I need direct access to, I always try to come up with "some" type of redundant protection against the slim chance of the car slipping.
So far the car has never budged at all, put additional protection never hurts.
Can't add anything to the motor mount/pan gasket discussion, but will be going down that path eventually.
Lately I've been putting 2 large 4 x 10 (?) blocks under the wheels or suspension bits if the wheels are off. I don't have the wheels touching the blocks, but the blocks just fit under them.
In the area that I need direct access to, I always try to come up with "some" type of redundant protection against the slim chance of the car slipping.
So far the car has never budged at all, put additional protection never hurts.
Can't add anything to the motor mount/pan gasket discussion, but will be going down that path eventually.
#18
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so it is no problem to use the top of the inner fenders to hang the motor on? It looks ok but just not bullet proof. But if this is the accepted method then I will go forward with it. Thanks for the help.
Sam
Sam
#19
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If the motor and clutch and bellhousing weigh ~700 lbs, then a hoist bar or 4x4 is probably holding up what, 400 lbs (yes, I would fail one of those tests with a vector diagram that has a ? on the vector drawn from the CG of the motor that is supported at the rear by the TT...... ) Divide that by 2 and that's less than my body weight on the lip of each fender, which seem to stand up to my leaning over/lying on them when fiddling with stuff at the back of the engine.....
Got your fender covers from Colgan yet?
Got your fender covers from Colgan yet?
#20
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As I said earlier this is the correct method as per the WSM 8>)
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#21
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or you can remove the engine, flip it over on th stand, do the rod bearings and just a few other minor things while your at it...
ROGs pan gasket and stud set went in very nicely. I realy like the extra mile he went to add the hex key head to the studs.
#23
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pan out
Ok got he pan out today. It went well. I had a quick question about the bolts for the steering rack but that got resolved. I am posting pics of my lifting device, it worked great. I spent about 20 bucks, a 4" x 4", two S rings, and two eye bolts. I am lifting by the front and rear engine lift point. I have some cleaning to do now, cross member, oil pan, whatever else is now exposed that 24 year dirt on it.
#26
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the lift set up work great. Two eye bolts from HD a 4 x 4, some washers, two S links, and a couple of 1/2" drive sockets to make up for the rought estimate of length I need on the eye bolts
I drilled the hole for the rear hager at an angle to accomodate for the fact that i could not be right over the lift point on the engine.
I drilled the hole for the rear hager at an angle to accomodate for the fact that i could not be right over the lift point on the engine.
#27
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Ok took the car for a spin today. A nice mild 4 mile ride, I stopped and checked for leaks, none evident. Cool I think the leak is solved. I jump on the highway 4th gear winding it out and shift into fifth and cruise at 80 for 3miles, I get off the highway and head back home. I really laid into it leaving a stop sign actually left some rubber. I got back in the drive way and saw oil coming off the front shelf of the pan. I can only suspect the front main seal at this point. I have doubted the front main seal because I have never seen any oil being flung by the crank, dampener. Oohh well I will be ordering a font main seal.
#28
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Nice job on the pan gasket, bummer on the front main seal.
When do you plan on tackling it?
When do you plan on tackling it?
#30
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Bummer, I was going to offer a hand but I have to work that week.
Are you going to make it to Wilbraham next weekend or is the leak bad?
Are you going to make it to Wilbraham next weekend or is the leak bad?