wildwestsydney

Ok so it looks like I an going to replace my oil pan gasket 1984 euro. I plan to the job with the motor in the car, what is the best way to support the motor when the cross menber is out? Also I think that while I am doing this it would be a good time to motor mounts. Please give some feedback / hints from those that have undergone this job

thanks Much

sam

Landseer

Right to do MM's and pan gasket. Silicone works nicely.

If I do another I will support the engine from above with 4X4's spanning the space where the fenders bolt. I think Andrew Olson posted pictures.

Its possible to use the combination of engine hoist and floor jack, but it gets verycrowded under the car where your body needs to be.

10,17,19 mm gear wrenches; 10mm 1/4inch air ratchet--- nice for all the pan bolts.

ROG100

Chris is right and Andrew did a great write up on how to support the engine from above.
Make sure you use solid rubber MM's 8>)
You may also want to consider using a stud kit to replace the bolts that vibrate loose on the oil pan.
They come with allan heads on the studs to enable you to get the stud to the correct depth and also hold the stud while tightening the lock nut in place.
Roger

Garth S

Cut a 4x4 for an interference fit directly over the harmonic balancer: a 2" ratchet strap becomes the primary stressed support , looped under the balancer and tightened after the engine is jacked up into position by a wood block under the oil pan ( loosen the 4 bolts/side on the MM's first, or you're in for a world of hurt ).

The chain is on a loose wrap for security - as is a floor jack under the bell housing if desired.

Jadz928

Roger,
Are you using studs with nyloc nuts? ...or std nuts and loctiite?

ROG100

Nyloc nuts - I thought there would be a temp issue with the nyloc but after months of being fitted no detriment at all. I started by using serated washers an integral part of the nut but some found these to be not quite good enough and I researched what was being used on other cars and found nyloc was the standard.
Roger.

Jadz928

Garth,
I read thru your post and re-read prior to your posting a pic. And that is what I was visualizing. So that is it... not lift req'd (except the jack underneath). Thanks.

Landseer

Nice picture also below, in it, appears that Andrew is using support blocks beneath the 4x4's to spread load and give vertical clearance.
He catches the two engine lift hooks.





I lifted it from post #39 within this link:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/308715-motor-mount-and-pan-gasket-party-resolution.html

Jadz928

Garth's approach seems slightly less complicated. It looks like he is lifting the motor fromt the front only, and the rear tranny mount is the pivot. The tranny/TT/engine as one big lever.

jon928se

Sam

I presume from the "wildwestsydney" you are somewhere west of Parramatta ? (Likely your handle means something different and you are in Oklahoma US or somewhere similar) If the Parramatta or near is correct I have the pieces of wood cut and assembled with chain and shackles to lift the front of the engine you are welcome to borrow. If you are in Oklahoma or anywhere vaguely near forget I spoke.

Mike Frye

I'm not sure how that worked without flexing the 2x6(?8?). I personally wouldn't lift it that way. If it worked for Garth, I'm sure it's fine, but I'd recommend using the lift points and double supports. You can see the threaded bolts with large flat washers at the front PS and rear DS corners where he just had to crank it with a wrench to raise it. The support is at the end near the fender, rather than the middle of the wood as well.

Not much more complicated, but much more adjustable and stable IMO.

ROG100

The later cars (87 onwards) have a bracket attached to the Water pump for this exact purpose of supporting the engine and as per the WSM. I would not use less than 4x4 but the method works fine. An engine support works better and can be purchased for about $80 but does exactly the same job.

On the earlier cars it is better to use two pieces of 4x4 as the only lift points are at the right front and left rear of the car. Lifting/supporting on the right front only cants the engine to one side. Lift/support on both and you have a uniform engine position.

NickT

I plan to do this for my winter project. Whats the best way (SAFEST) to raise the car up high enough to get everything done? Got this thing about being under the car :-)

wildwestsydney

Wildwestsydney is my dogs name she is an australian cattle dog. I am in the south east of massachusetts. Thanks for the offer.

Garth S

To elaborate on my post above, the 4x4 beam shown was a knot-free section of pressure treated spruce .... a wood that has high strength in tension mode: the particular car was an '89 - but it works for all years.
The car was on a hoist, set fairly low so that work could also proceed from above: at the chosen height, a floor jack + wood spacer was forced against the bellhousing ...... doing this, there is no way the engine could fall, twist ... or slip out of perfect alignment for reassembly.

This can be done off jack stands; however, were it me, I would add one or two floor jacks at strategic points against the floor pan for security: ramps are next to useless for most front end work - and impossible for jobs such as this where the wheels and lower control arms must drop.