My rear end squeeks....what might be the problem?
#16
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I'd hate to go to that trouble and find that it's something else.
Thanks all.
H2
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Good comeback, H2!!
I'm thinkin' NAPA might be the better choice....the drug store limits itself to KY and the like. I got a feelin' that won't cut it for ya!
The creak/squeek definitely is related to the rear suspension parts. I jacked it up (Restrain yourself, Leslie) and moved the wheel up and down and could hear the squeek from that area but could not isolate it. Getting PB blaster into and around the rubber bushings sounds like a chore.
I'd hate to go to that trouble and find that it's something else.
Thanks all.
H2
I'd hate to go to that trouble and find that it's something else.
Thanks all.
H2
#18
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If the squeak is from the rubber exhaust hangers, then non-petroleum lube is preferred. So I've been told.
Vaseline. It's bad for rubber.
#19
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if your hearing a squeak try tightening the nuts on either end of this lower link pin. they should be tight, to remove the pin remove the wheel and then the front nut and slide the pin out the rear.
You should roll the pin on a flat surface to make sure its straight. ( if its not straight then a used one can be purchased) use a generous amount of anti seize to the shaft before you insert it into its hole, pay careful attenton to the the way the big washer spaces between the shock and hub and also how the bevelled washers fit into the hub carrier.( use wheel bearing grease to hold the bevelled washer in place while you insert your rod)
There are some holes under the hub carrier that you should spray some PB blaster into to aid in the shaft being removed as this is where it can corrode and prevent removal.
Lastly while your at Autozone or NAPA to pick up the anti seize also buy yourself a good set of jack stands, that wood block could be 2 seconds away from splintering
You should roll the pin on a flat surface to make sure its straight. ( if its not straight then a used one can be purchased) use a generous amount of anti seize to the shaft before you insert it into its hole, pay careful attenton to the the way the big washer spaces between the shock and hub and also how the bevelled washers fit into the hub carrier.( use wheel bearing grease to hold the bevelled washer in place while you insert your rod)
There are some holes under the hub carrier that you should spray some PB blaster into to aid in the shaft being removed as this is where it can corrode and prevent removal.
Lastly while your at Autozone or NAPA to pick up the anti seize also buy yourself a good set of jack stands, that wood block could be 2 seconds away from splintering
#20
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if your hearing a squeak try tightening the nuts on either end of this lower link pin. they should be tight, to remove the pin remove the wheel and then the front nut and slide the pin out the rear.
You should roll the pin on a flat surface to make sure its straight. ( if its not straight then a used one can be purchased) use a generous amount of anti seize to the shaft before you insert it into its hole, pay careful attenton to the the way the big washer spaces between the shock and hub and also how the bevelled washers fit into the hub carrier.( use wheel bearing grease to hold the bevelled washer in place while you insert your rod)
There are some holes under the hub carrier that you should spray some PB blaster into to aid in the shaft being removed as this is where it can corrode and prevent removal.
Lastly while your at Autozone or NAPA to pick up the anti seize also buy yourself a good set of jack stands, that wood block could be 2 seconds away from splintering
You should roll the pin on a flat surface to make sure its straight. ( if its not straight then a used one can be purchased) use a generous amount of anti seize to the shaft before you insert it into its hole, pay careful attenton to the the way the big washer spaces between the shock and hub and also how the bevelled washers fit into the hub carrier.( use wheel bearing grease to hold the bevelled washer in place while you insert your rod)
There are some holes under the hub carrier that you should spray some PB blaster into to aid in the shaft being removed as this is where it can corrode and prevent removal.
Lastly while your at Autozone or NAPA to pick up the anti seize also buy yourself a good set of jack stands, that wood block could be 2 seconds away from splintering
Thanks, Mr. Merlin,
You just defined what I'll be doing on Saturday.
BTW, Leslie. I had a friend (really) who grabbed the wrong lube early on in his marriage....Vicks Salve. His biggest mistake, though , was telling his friends about it. No one forgets. I won't use that on my 928. I don't like the smell.
H2
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Thanks, Mr. Merlin,
You just defined what I'll be doing on Saturday.
BTW, Leslie. I had a friend (really) who grabbed the wrong lube early on in his marriage....Vicks Salve. His biggest mistake, though , was telling his friends about it. No one forgets. I won't use that on my 928. I don't like the smell.
H2
You just defined what I'll be doing on Saturday.
BTW, Leslie. I had a friend (really) who grabbed the wrong lube early on in his marriage....Vicks Salve. His biggest mistake, though , was telling his friends about it. No one forgets. I won't use that on my 928. I don't like the smell.
H2
BTW, H2, thanks for bein' such a good sport about my funnin'....had a couple too many the other night!
#22
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if your hearing a squeak try tightening the nuts on either end of this lower link pin. they should be tight, to remove the pin remove the wheel and then the front nut and slide the pin out the rear.
You should roll the pin on a flat surface to make sure its straight. ( if its not straight then a used one can be purchased) use a generous amount of anti seize to the shaft before you insert it into its hole, pay careful attenton to the the way the big washer spaces between the shock and hub and also how the bevelled washers fit into the hub carrier.( use wheel bearing grease to hold the bevelled washer in place while you insert your rod)
There are some holes under the hub carrier that you should spray some PB blaster into to aid in the shaft being removed as this is where it can corrode and prevent removal.
Lastly while your at Autozone or NAPA to pick up the anti seize also buy yourself a good set of jack stands, that wood block could be 2 seconds away from splintering
You should roll the pin on a flat surface to make sure its straight. ( if its not straight then a used one can be purchased) use a generous amount of anti seize to the shaft before you insert it into its hole, pay careful attenton to the the way the big washer spaces between the shock and hub and also how the bevelled washers fit into the hub carrier.( use wheel bearing grease to hold the bevelled washer in place while you insert your rod)
There are some holes under the hub carrier that you should spray some PB blaster into to aid in the shaft being removed as this is where it can corrode and prevent removal.
Lastly while your at Autozone or NAPA to pick up the anti seize also buy yourself a good set of jack stands, that wood block could be 2 seconds away from splintering
Seems like you spend an awful lot of time thinkin' about shafts and holes. Hmmmmmm....
Don't you have anything better to do with your time???
Ok, maybe I had a couple too many tonight too! LOL.
BTW, H2, as others have said, that wood is scary....not to bust your ***** too much more, when everyone else has, but when Kevin didn't have jack stands, a wheel or two stacked under the car is a leeetle bit safer than that block of wood.
Heh heh heh.....I said wood!
#26
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#28
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The nut your pointing to is the lower mount for the rear shock. IIRC there are no rubber bushings in there (the lower shock has a rubber insert) but I doubt it's squeeking, the upper mount is rubber mounted. The sway bar links are mounted in rubber bushings and could squeek. The rear hatch has two plastic guides on the sides that should mate with a 2" section of teflon tape (to avoid squeeks). The tape is often missing and will cause a squeek everytime you go over a bump.
Let us know what you find.
Let us know what you find.
#29
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I had squeaky suspension going on with my first 928, the 79'. People would turn and look at me funny whenever I drove over speed bumps. I lubed all points of the suspension, and even replaced some sway bar parts before finding that it was the old shock absorbers. If you're sure the sound is suspension related, I'd entertain that possibility first, as I've been there and spent alot of time scratching my head. YMMV Good luck with your squeak hunt!
#30
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I know i'm late to the party, but y'all are sooooo tame ...
I can't believe nobody thought that the cause of the squeak might be that the shaft H2 is pointing to is too big for that poor rear end.
Hi, Leslie.
ww
I can't believe nobody thought that the cause of the squeak might be that the shaft H2 is pointing to is too big for that poor rear end.
Hi, Leslie.
ww