optimizing and digital engine control on early car
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 328
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From: Montrose, CA
If you have a US 4.5 car with CIS do the CIS Euro S intake parts (4.7, right?) swap straight across? I actually was doing a search yesterday on doing the whole head swap and didn't ever find a straight answer.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,706
Likes: 152
From: Frankenmuth, Michigan
I agree with Hacker. You really have to start with the weakest link in the chain, and work forward from there.
Euro Intake and TB mods have been done to US 16V'r and shown dissapointing gains, as a stand alone upgrade.
Open exhaust with 85-86 manifolds have shown 10% gains on the dyno (coupled w/ AFPR).
Euro cams hop things up, as a standalone. I would say an open exhaust will make gains more noticable.
Cam timing. Optimize to your driving style.
Overall, power gains out of the 80-84 US is limited in the "bolt on" arena (supercharging notwithstanding). The amount of money you could dump into it may predicate a Euro 5.0 hybrid engine swap.
Euro Intake and TB mods have been done to US 16V'r and shown dissapointing gains, as a stand alone upgrade.
Open exhaust with 85-86 manifolds have shown 10% gains on the dyno (coupled w/ AFPR).
Euro cams hop things up, as a standalone. I would say an open exhaust will make gains more noticable.
Cam timing. Optimize to your driving style.
Overall, power gains out of the 80-84 US is limited in the "bolt on" arena (supercharging notwithstanding). The amount of money you could dump into it may predicate a Euro 5.0 hybrid engine swap.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 11,542
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From: Anaheim California
If it is a Euro and a 4.7 it is an S .... If you think of the USA 4.5 as a river with several restrictive dams.....you can blow one up and the water will just pile up on the next one...and that is the problem with putting in S cams they work best at the high RPM but the rest of the USA 4.5 is not up to the task. So you give up the low RPM torque and do not get the high RPM horsepower. As was stated it is hard to bump the power much without ALL THE S PARTS !!
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,235
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From: Atlanta
This is exactly the kind of information I've been looking for. I know the power gains will be limited, but I wanted to understand what was available from a bolt on perspective, and what could be done. I've already got the exhaust covered, coming in soon. I'm going to remedy a couple of issues I have with the air meter, check ignition setup and timing, install the y-pipe and then head back to the dyno and see what real improvement that offers. Next step after that looks like cams and adjustable FPR. Beyond that, there are lots of choices from the full euro heads and intake, aftermarket MAF/MAP and so on.
Anyone got a Borla cat-back or similar exhaust taking up space in the garage they want to get rid of?
Anyone got a Borla cat-back or similar exhaust taking up space in the garage they want to get rid of?
Man of many SIGs
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Florida, USA
I am converting my 81 L-Jet with the barn door to an MAF from Split-Second. It's tuneable by laptop and gives you just about all the air/fuel tweaking ability you will ever need. Of course, you will also need a wideband o2 sensor and gauge to dial it all in properly. Their website says 18-20 HP increase on a stock engine. Mine should see more than that. It's last dyno was 252RWHP. But.......it has Devek headers with custom X-pipe and no cats, 85 Euro S Cams and Heads. To keep track of everything, I am also adding an Innovate Motorsports DL-32 32 channel Data logger. So far, I have my air/fuel ratio pretty well dialed in up to about 3K RPM (it takes time). Next, I'll dial it in all the way to redline, then spend a day on the dyno and dial it in under load. I'll post results of that when I am finished. Oh, BTW......this an IDEAL setup for BOOST!!!
The Euro cars were LH Jetronic. The US. cars were L-Jetronic....at least for this discussion. Two entirely different systems and no, the brains are NOT interchangeable. The LH cars also used an MAF and the L-Jet cars used an AFM, commonly known as a barn door. The MAF is a much more precise measuring device than the AFM which is the big reason (along with boost) that I am changing over. Much quicker and more precise throttle response is the result. You will only get just so far using US components. But I can tell you this; if you mix and match a few things you can have an early car that is every bit as fast or faster than an S-4 or a GT. My 81 is way quicker than my S-4 and many other S-4's and GT's that have tried to keep up with it.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,059
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From: Cambridge England
SharkTuner will work with all 85/86 cars, Euro or ROW, also all cars 87-95. Just plug in ribbon cable or PEMs and you're ready to go. Nothing to do with what chips are in there now.
