soontobered84

Good thoughts RET except that if an injector is stuck open, couldn't it hydrolock a cylinder and bend or break a rod?

RET

Good point, and that would certainly be embarrassing. OTOH, this is a CIS FI system. Nonetheless, given the length of time that the car has set, it would not be a bad idea to pull the plugs anyway.

Even if an engine has been properly pickled before it was put into hibernation, resurrection can have a lot of problems: stuck rings; rust and corrosion; shrunken seals; and no lubrication when and where you really need to have it; etc.

I think that a minimalist approach would be to remove the spark plugs, squirt some light oil into each cylinder and let it set for a day or so; fresh oil and new oil filter; crank the engine without plugs (ignition and fuel pumps disabled) until oil had circulated and pressurized (maybe even remove cam covers and pour oil onto cams and lifters...) new fuel, new fuel filter; flush fuel system; check compression (with likely scary results...); check fuel pressure and spark; new spark plugs; and if everything looks OK, cross fingers, say prayer in High German, and start it.

The above does not take into account other little items such as timing belt, coolant, etc.

HTH

SteveG

Now we're getting somewhere! What year is it again? Pls put in sig line. I had similar problem on '85, would start wi/starter fluid, got progressively worse. I checked various readings at both computers, all were good. With help from Rich Andrade I found corrosion (doesn't take much) at driver's side coil ground. Has been fine since. I would check any brown wire that goes to chassis also coil wire connections to and from distributors.

Lance J

its a 1979. i will try the oil in cylinder method. and crank without spark plugs

Fogey1

If it starts with starting fluid but won't continue to run and won't start on its own, it's most likely to be the fuel system.

Pull the injectors and see if they're spraying fuel.

Be very careful spraying gas around.

tailpipe

check the fuel pumpS there could be 2 usually the upper ones is fine and u hear it run making u think both r ok usually the lower one at the tank its toast in all my 5 rescues only 2 fuel pumps worked the other 3 i had to replace

paul with 4 79 928s and one 77 924

Tampa 928s

If you were smart I would drain the gas open the sender unit and look inside. I just replaced pumps on an 85 and 82 due to P.O.'s trying to start the car with bad fuel. I used toluene to flush it and disconnected the front fuel line and back flushed it with an air conditioning flush canister. also a little Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn over by hand.

Lance J

I'm cleaning out the fuel tank and fuel pumps (b-12 and a rubber mallet an tah dah its alive). I worked on this fuel pump for 3 days and almost gave up. but a few wacks with the b-12 and she came alive. Side note i think all cars have girl names becuase they give us such headaches.
I'm doing all belts and water pump. With the timing belt jobs whats good to replace while she's opened up? and anything esle that may go bad from sitting

Looking for the following:
USED parts
1-Rear Shift Rod Coupler and hardware (Part #:928-424-029-00-M260)- well i'm just trying to save money
2-Breather hose oil (928 107 073 00)- that dont make this anymore. Any neat upgrades to delete this tube? pm

Jumpydude

Thanks for the bump I was looking to have my tank drained also. The search was kinda picky. Gonna read the messages in this thread heh.

Lance J

the old fuel clogged my fuel pump..... you must drain the tank and flush it..... now i'm looking on how to flush the fuel lines on the cis cars

Lance J

I have an in tank fuel pump is there a replacement rubber gasket to that goes on the 36mm thread to connect to the fuel tank. so body like an idiot us JB weld and thats what clogged my primary fuel pump?

b1114p

Regarding your rear shift coupler, replacing just the bushings is easy and about $10 for the pair. I did mine just a few months ago - about 1 hour, tops. Remove the coupler, drive out the pin and pry out the old bushings. Part # 911.424.223.03

The breather line can be obtained used from 928Intl.com, just search by part number U928 107 073 00 - about $50. 928MotorSports.com sells a Oil control system including a baffle plate for the breather port at the top of the block. I can't currently recommend this system though because about 5 miles after installing one on my car this week I 'm tearing the intake apart and trying to figure out why I have oil literally filling the intake side of my heads... Perhaps too much restriction on crankcase pressure?

Ben
79 5spd #0275

Lance J

Ben, my rear shift coupler is just gone. the guy who molested my shark didnt put it back...... so i'm looking for a used one....and i will rebuilt if. The vent line 928int is out Tom told me...suck man. i will repair my old one.
On to Good News: i unclogged my intank fuel pump also.... now i'm searching for a gasket intank pump.
the car sat for years and the vacuum lines are in good shape..

heinrich

old petrol is a baaaad thing ... get it outta there - it gunks up and crystallises .... and will screw your fuel lines and injectors up

Lance J

bump.....shifter anyone