pcar928fan

^^^^^
Please stand by... Working on something...

Oh Roger, so you don't have any S cars only OB's then huh?! LOL!

Glad at least ONE other person agrees with my logic about making this crap easy! Roger I am never buying anything from you again for spinning me up like this! LOL! I can't even imagine that being the case!

You can make it up to me by buying me a drink at OCIC next summer!

ROG100

Just for the record OT means Off Thread 8>)

ROG100

I am drinking a Australian Merlot - AM for those in the know.

w3lfd

I agree 100%. Por 15 is nice, but the bestest way to go is professional.

I have used the rust convertor on my hatch, and even with very meticulous prep it only lasted a few months. YMMV.

ROG100

Started with a NZ Sauvignon Blanc from Cloudy bay - perfection.

Anyone know what and OBS is?

w3lfd

Old Bugger Snifter?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBS

Organic Brain Syndrome?

pcar928fan

No such thing as an OBS!

Interesting info about the rust converter. Never used that stuff, but had been under the impression it was the greatest thing since sliced bread... guess NOT! Do you have to keep it off the paint when you use it or is it pretty safe for painted surfaces???

w3lfd

It seems to be ok over paint (at least the stuff I used) but not very desireable in appearance. It is easy to have it run, and if it does run out of the bare metal area you end up with translucent black runs because of the paints reaction with the bare metal (it actually turns the old sanded down rust area black in color).

You know, now that I think of it, unless you are really careful it is more trouble than it is worth.

Por 15 is much nicer to work with.

Still, professional repair is the best way to go.

pcar928fan

I don't think I have any problems, but if others have found that they have under wing damage on their S cars then I may well have that too as mine had a bunch of crap up under there. I think I finally got most if not all of it out.

Dare I ask how to remove that hatch wing? Is it easy...never done it or even looked into doing it before. Might be worth checking out and cleaning up to catch and correct any damage that might have been done to date and/or prevent future damage.

bernard farquart

I have used the spray rust converter, and the liquid rust converter, and have had good luck with both types. They will discolor your paint, so you want to mask, but I am eight years out on a repaint over SERIOUS rust on the roof of my nova, that way all ground down, treated with many cans of "rust converter" and then filler primed and painted. no bubbles, I would not hesitate to use it, but would seal after before I remounted the spoiler on your OB

Altharos

I pulled the spoiler off mine (first thing I really pulled off the car in fact heh) and found a little bit of rust where the paint had begun to crack, put a couple of coats of liquid rust converter, then masked up and sprayed a few layers of cold galv (zinc rich primer, dunno what you guys call it over in the US) then some touchup paint. I'll let you know when I take it off next year some time if it worked (or if my hatch suddenly collapses :P). I also went and bought new stainless steel screws for it, because I didn't like the look of the fairly well roughed up original screws. On an ever-so-slightly off topic tangent though, 2 of the fixing points on the spoiler itself have rusted completely through, anyone have an idea for a quick fix? The thing is back on there without them, and it holds down perfectly fine, even at speed, but if there is an easy way to get some more on there, I'll quick happily pull it off again and do it.

James, removing the wing is painfully easy, the hardest part is pulling the interior off so you can get at the fixing
The workshop manual has a section on how to fit a spoiler to a non-S original bodied car (I say that because they're not neccesarily all CIS, nor team built ) I just followed that backwards to take it off. Depending on how much crap is under there it may be a bit of a fight to pull it off, in my case the 4 uppermost fixings (the threaded rods that are permanently attached to the spoiler) had a whole lot of congealed garbage on them which was almost gluing them into their holes. The only unexpected thing that I came across was the bendyness of the spoiler arms, I would guess they have a metal bar inside of them that is fantastic for holding whatever shape you put it in, incidentally a PO or mechanic of, had bent one out of shape slightly so I had to straighted it up then sit it on a nice flat surface for a while so it didnt twist etc.

That being said I've not touched the two side portions of the wing because I think that involves removing the rear quater glass?

LT Texan

Just to pipe in, James is right. And all the rest of you fools are wrong.

Dennis Wilson

Altharos,

Where the screws go though, I've seen folks use clear silicone (not the rtv which contains acid) to waterproof and prime the holes to stop rust.

Roger,

I'm gonna tell JK you called him gay!!! I always thought OT stood for Out of Touch. LOL Actually this OB argument reminds me of the USAF solution for defining/controlling acronyms. They created AFM 300-4 which grew to over 10 volumes and there were still duplications and misinterpretations.

Dennis

w3lfd

Way to call people names. Really makes people want to care what you have to say.

JKelly

There is a thread stuck at the top of the forum titled "Read This FAQ *BEFORE YOUR FIRST POST*". That thread contains a list of acronyms and terminology for the 928 community.
It is important to help other 928 brothers get the lingo correct and understand the history behind the terminology. "OB" has always meant "Old Bugger"; therefore, other forms of reference for pre-87 cars could be:
EB = Early Body
EBS = Early Body Style
OBS = Old Body Style