What ever happened to the BlackBird setup?
#16
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Very nice Handiwork, Fuse69.
Now if someone could make the merge collector out of clear material then we could see how the flow works with some smoke.
Exhausts have alternate pulses for their collector design but the intake is just one big air gulping machine with 2 pipes colliding into the 'T'.
Now if someone could make the merge collector out of clear material then we could see how the flow works with some smoke.
Exhausts have alternate pulses for their collector design but the intake is just one big air gulping machine with 2 pipes colliding into the 'T'.
#17
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FUSE, what materials did you use to make the merge collector, I am going to undergo the same project I just don't know where I could find a similar setup or materials on how to do it. I sent you a PM. THANKS
#18
Well, I found no easy, 'shortcut' way of making this... I would have bought DR's, but for 2 reasons... 1, I couldn't get one and 2, I liked the idea of using the BMC Carbon Fiber filter boxes....
I hope he doesn't have a patent
So how's it done.... well, take 1 very cold, long and dark Swedish winter and have at it!!
But seriously, I started with 4, 3.5 inch, 90deg exhaust bends which were available at a local parts store.
From there, lots of chopping and welding. I don't have access to a TIG, so had to use a MIG and in some areas a little brazing, mostly to 'fill in'.
This also meant lots of 'porting' (for lack of a better word) with a mini die grinder to ensure the interior walls were as smooth as possible.
To smoothen out the exterior walls a little 'lead wiping' was employed
Then a good coat of wrinkle finish paint.
Random progress pic.
Seatofthepantsometer reckons that there is a slight improvement, particularly in the higher RPM range.... I later went to a Dyno session after a trip to Nurburgring, but that just indicated I had a bunch of other problems.... (knock retard after 4000RPM) I think I have the problems solved now, so I must get back to the dyno to see what happens.
I have a half finished model of this induction system modeled in CAD which I can hopefully have a guy at work check with his CFD software to see what will give the best results. But that ones been 'under construction' for over 8 months now and I still haven't got 'round to completing it
I hope he doesn't have a patent
So how's it done.... well, take 1 very cold, long and dark Swedish winter and have at it!!
But seriously, I started with 4, 3.5 inch, 90deg exhaust bends which were available at a local parts store.
From there, lots of chopping and welding. I don't have access to a TIG, so had to use a MIG and in some areas a little brazing, mostly to 'fill in'.
This also meant lots of 'porting' (for lack of a better word) with a mini die grinder to ensure the interior walls were as smooth as possible.
To smoothen out the exterior walls a little 'lead wiping' was employed
Then a good coat of wrinkle finish paint.
Random progress pic.
Seatofthepantsometer reckons that there is a slight improvement, particularly in the higher RPM range.... I later went to a Dyno session after a trip to Nurburgring, but that just indicated I had a bunch of other problems.... (knock retard after 4000RPM) I think I have the problems solved now, so I must get back to the dyno to see what happens.
I have a half finished model of this induction system modeled in CAD which I can hopefully have a guy at work check with his CFD software to see what will give the best results. But that ones been 'under construction' for over 8 months now and I still haven't got 'round to completing it
#20
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FUSE69,
When you dyno'ed your homebrew intake, was the A/F mixture sampled as well?
Was wondering how the MAF and LH compensates for a different airflow profile of your new intake.
When you dyno'ed your homebrew intake, was the A/F mixture sampled as well?
Was wondering how the MAF and LH compensates for a different airflow profile of your new intake.
#21
I knew that the injectors were a bit dodgy, so I've since replaced those as well as fitting an adjustable pressure reg. Also did cam timing with one of PorKens tools... drivers side was 8deg advanced (pass 0deg)
My WBO2 now shows pretty good figures, so I have to go back and try again... Next on the list is then a JDS MAF if it's still well out...
I'm also interested in what the results will be and whether a Shark Tuner will be needed to get further improvements
BTW at 3000RPM I was about 15Hp over the standard Porsche graph.
#23
Not a problem, they're great! So long as there's a Murf supercharger in front of it
Honestly, I think that it would not provide sufficient airflow ... mainly due to the fact that the induction tube diameter is somewhat limited by the cross brace.
Honestly, I think that it would not provide sufficient airflow ... mainly due to the fact that the induction tube diameter is somewhat limited by the cross brace.
#24
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Yeah, that's the problem I had, it was running quite lean especially above 4K...
I knew that the injectors were a bit dodgy, so I've since replaced those as well as fitting an adjustable pressure reg. Also did cam timing with one of PorKens tools... drivers side was 8deg advanced (pass 0deg)
My WBO2 now shows pretty good figures, so I have to go back and try again... Next on the list is then a JDS MAF if it's still well out...
I'm also interested in what the results will be and whether a Shark Tuner will be needed to get further improvements
BTW at 3000RPM I was about 15Hp over the standard Porsche graph.
I knew that the injectors were a bit dodgy, so I've since replaced those as well as fitting an adjustable pressure reg. Also did cam timing with one of PorKens tools... drivers side was 8deg advanced (pass 0deg)
My WBO2 now shows pretty good figures, so I have to go back and try again... Next on the list is then a JDS MAF if it's still well out...
I'm also interested in what the results will be and whether a Shark Tuner will be needed to get further improvements
BTW at 3000RPM I was about 15Hp over the standard Porsche graph.
My complete unscientific gut feeling is that the air velocity through the MAF may be too high for the MAF and LH to understand. The MAF wire is getting supercooled.
Stock airbox is fed by 2 intake pipes that 'stall' the airflow when it enters the much larger volume airbox. The stock filter is rumored to also smoothe out the any turbulence from the 2 airflows merging in the large volume filterbox.
Wonder if running smaller diameter tubing from your filter to the merge pipe will help the MAF in metering inlet air. Just a guess.
The smaller diameter pipes will create higher velocity flow that slows down as it meets the larger merge 'T'.
Is there some way to log the voltage coming out the MAF?
That'll tell you when the MAF is getting confused by the inlet air.
#27
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My complete unscientific gut feeling is that the air velocity through the MAF may be too high for the MAF and LH to understand. The MAF wire is getting supercooled.
Stock airbox is fed by 2 intake pipes that 'stall' the airflow when it enters the much larger volume airbox. The stock filter is rumored to also smoothe out the any turbulence from the 2 airflows merging in the large volume filterbox.
Wonder if running smaller diameter tubing from your filter to the merge pipe will help the MAF in metering inlet air. Just a guess.
The smaller diameter pipes will create higher velocity flow that slows down as it meets the larger merge 'T'.
Is there some way to log the voltage coming out the MAF?
That'll tell you when the MAF is getting confused by the inlet air.
Stock airbox is fed by 2 intake pipes that 'stall' the airflow when it enters the much larger volume airbox. The stock filter is rumored to also smoothe out the any turbulence from the 2 airflows merging in the large volume filterbox.
Wonder if running smaller diameter tubing from your filter to the merge pipe will help the MAF in metering inlet air. Just a guess.
The smaller diameter pipes will create higher velocity flow that slows down as it meets the larger merge 'T'.
Is there some way to log the voltage coming out the MAF?
That'll tell you when the MAF is getting confused by the inlet air.
Again, there shouldn't be any ill affect on the MAF. The standard MAF is good up to about 400~450 RWHP. You will not reach that with just the BlackBird setup. So the standard MAF will be more than sufficient. Also, you should be aware, the SuperMAF would require retuning the car with a SharkTuner. It's not plug-and play.
#29
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Found it! If you want the air intake y-pipe or merge collector, goto ebay and look up C5 Corvette intake.
For $25 you can have it with filters. Although I wouldn't use those filters. You can also purchase some 90 degree elbows from Autozone, Kragen, Checker, Pep Boys, whatever place you want in order to build it. I would go with the BMC air filter idea stated back there since that is the best method of filtration and keeping the heat out.
For $25 you can have it with filters. Although I wouldn't use those filters. You can also purchase some 90 degree elbows from Autozone, Kragen, Checker, Pep Boys, whatever place you want in order to build it. I would go with the BMC air filter idea stated back there since that is the best method of filtration and keeping the heat out.
#30
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interesting. There's even a budget route instead of going with $250 BMC filters. There are some cone filters that have a heat shield with a 4" diameter opening into the filter. Running ducting from the factory induction location into this section will also have the same effects as the BMC CDA