My New 928 - A lesson In Neglect for $1000
07-31-2008, 07:25 PM
#16
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temp2 is
14* 12k
68* 3k
176* 250-400
_ v _
w ....g
notch on top w is on left g on right
g to ground is .....
under 86* 0 ohms
over 104* is 100-160
w to ground is
under 86* 0
over 104* 100-160
w to g is
under 86* 25-40
over 104* 50-80
car looks good so far good luck
Jeff
14* 12k
68* 3k
176* 250-400
_ v _
w ....g
notch on top w is on left g on right
g to ground is .....
under 86* 0 ohms
over 104* is 100-160
w to ground is
under 86* 0
over 104* 100-160
w to g is
under 86* 25-40
over 104* 50-80
car looks good so far good luck
Jeff
07-31-2008, 08:08 PM
#17
Under the Lift
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- Almost none of the interior electricals worked. No lights, no gauges, no windows, etc.
- The interior was a dried out disaster. The PO had attempted to have the driver's seat dyed and it's not even the right color. The shrinkage of the leather on the passenger seat base was like nothing I have ever seen and one of the rear seats was missing a hunk of leather from what looks like a chemical spill.
- 1" of water on the passenger side floor from what I'm assuming are clogged sunroof drains. The car was perfectly dry when I first looked at it but we had a major thunderstorm roll through the night before I picked it up. Just my luck.
- Bad vacuum lines were evident everywhere although the large ones for the most part looked okay.
- Major oil leak.
- HVAC blows hot when it decides to do anything.
- headlights wouldn't come up.
- Sunroof stuck shut.
- The body had obviously not been washed for several years.
- Some missing interior bits and broken door panels etc.
- The interior was a dried out disaster. The PO had attempted to have the driver's seat dyed and it's not even the right color. The shrinkage of the leather on the passenger seat base was like nothing I have ever seen and one of the rear seats was missing a hunk of leather from what looks like a chemical spill.
- 1" of water on the passenger side floor from what I'm assuming are clogged sunroof drains. The car was perfectly dry when I first looked at it but we had a major thunderstorm roll through the night before I picked it up. Just my luck.
- Bad vacuum lines were evident everywhere although the large ones for the most part looked okay.
- Major oil leak.
- HVAC blows hot when it decides to do anything.
- headlights wouldn't come up.
- Sunroof stuck shut.
- The body had obviously not been washed for several years.
- Some missing interior bits and broken door panels etc.
07-31-2008, 08:25 PM
#18
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Congratulations Jeff
It always does my heart good to see someone that looks beyond the mud covering and sees the heart & soul of a champion waiting to be rescued
What a great job you've done
It always does my heart good to see someone that looks beyond the mud covering and sees the heart & soul of a champion waiting to be rescued What a great job you've done
07-31-2008, 08:27 PM
#19
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I'm seeing it in several places. Around the oil pressure switch maybe, the pan gasket for sure it seems, and there's oil all over the bottom half of the bell housing. I haven't seen it yet but appears to be loosing a lot of oil under pressure. I'm guessing the rear main seal is shot. If someone could provide a play by play for getting to the seal that would be helpful as I haven't seen one yet.
To get to the seal, unbolt and remove the flexplate from the torque tube shaft clamp and the flywheel. MARK THE POSITION OF THE CLAMP RELATIVE TO THE FLEXPLATE ARMS - this is a balanced unit (you will probably see balancing scallops cut into one or two arms). On an early AT, you should be able to remove the ring gear from the flywheel. This will provide room to remove the flywheel and access at the rear main seal. There is a cutout in the boss around the seal for levering it out. Pressing a new seal in with limited space when you do not remove the torque tube requires some improvisation, but you sound up to that. Same with torquing the flywheel bolts.
07-31-2008, 09:32 PM
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Becomming a paying member seems like a good idea. I haven't yet stumbled onto that part of the site yet. Can someone point me in the right direction?
07-31-2008, 09:39 PM
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The AFM may have the coating on the internal wiper sensor pad worn off. You would need to get the black cover off the AFM and have a look.
Replace the fuel pump, check valve, and filter (didn't see that in your replaced list) and then go after the injectors. They are hooked into the round steel fuel rail with little rubber pipes. The injector itself is not a normal one, but I did find some in ebay. If you don't want new, then get these cleaned and tested.
The spark control is a solid state box in on the passenger fender, and it DOES NOT like being 30 years old. Or even 26 in your car. It could be cutting out.
VERY SMALL bolts are used to ground the injection system, and the better they are grounded (to the cam covers) the better off you will be.
Speak to write to Ken (Porken) about the L-ject system. He knew it inside and out by the time he had removed EVERYTHING from it that was not needed for the car to run.
Replace the fuel pump, check valve, and filter (didn't see that in your replaced list) and then go after the injectors. They are hooked into the round steel fuel rail with little rubber pipes. The injector itself is not a normal one, but I did find some in ebay. If you don't want new, then get these cleaned and tested.
The spark control is a solid state box in on the passenger fender, and it DOES NOT like being 30 years old. Or even 26 in your car. It could be cutting out.
VERY SMALL bolts are used to ground the injection system, and the better they are grounded (to the cam covers) the better off you will be.
Speak to write to Ken (Porken) about the L-ject system. He knew it inside and out by the time he had removed EVERYTHING from it that was not needed for the car to run.
The fuel pump is great (1000cc in 15 seconds), the check valve is bad and the filter is new.
I'm not looking forward to doing the injectors. They're identical to the Vanagon although I'd say the Vanagon was probably much easier. Half as many and easier to get to. It's quite funny actually how identical the systems are. Especially the fuel injection. I've already done the injection ground.
I'd love to swap in a known good spark controller.
Thanks.
07-31-2008, 09:43 PM
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temp2 is
14* 12k
68* 3k
176* 250-400
_ v _
w ....g
notch on top w is on left g on right
g to ground is .....
under 86* 0 ohms
over 104* is 100-160
w to ground is
under 86* 0
over 104* 100-160
w to g is
under 86* 25-40
over 104* 50-80
car looks good so far good luck
Jeff
14* 12k
68* 3k
176* 250-400
_ v _
w ....g
notch on top w is on left g on right
g to ground is .....
under 86* 0 ohms
over 104* is 100-160
w to ground is
under 86* 0
over 104* 100-160
w to g is
under 86* 25-40
over 104* 50-80
car looks good so far good luck
Jeff
Thanks.
07-31-2008, 09:45 PM
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07-31-2008, 09:46 PM
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07-31-2008, 09:48 PM
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Oil from the pan gasket can coat the bottom of the bellhousing, so you need to look for oil behind the flywheel, inside the bellhousing, if you suspect the rear main seal. So, remove the lower cover and have a peak behind the flywheel.
To get to the seal, unbolt and remove the flexplate from the torque tube shaft clamp and the flywheel. MARK THE POSITION OF THE CLAMP RELATIVE TO THE FLEXPLATE ARMS - this is a balanced unit (you will probably see balancing scallops cut into one or two arms). On an early AT, you should be able to remove the ring gear from the flywheel. This will provide room to remove the flywheel and access at the rear main seal. There is a cutout in the boss around the seal for levering it out. Pressing a new seal in with limited space when you do not remove the torque tube requires some improvisation, but you sound up to that. Same with torquing the flywheel bolts.
To get to the seal, unbolt and remove the flexplate from the torque tube shaft clamp and the flywheel. MARK THE POSITION OF THE CLAMP RELATIVE TO THE FLEXPLATE ARMS - this is a balanced unit (you will probably see balancing scallops cut into one or two arms). On an early AT, you should be able to remove the ring gear from the flywheel. This will provide room to remove the flywheel and access at the rear main seal. There is a cutout in the boss around the seal for levering it out. Pressing a new seal in with limited space when you do not remove the torque tube requires some improvisation, but you sound up to that. Same with torquing the flywheel bolts.
07-31-2008, 09:50 PM
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07-31-2008, 10:14 PM
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Great deal on the 928!!!!!!!!!! I thought I got a killer deal on my $1400 928s but you got me by 400. Be prepared to open your checkbook...... I have 2000k worth of parts ready to go in during the next week or so. The great thing about paying so little is you have a a few extra $ you can put into your car. Seems like most people on the board spend 4-10k on a OB 928 and put a few thousand into it the first year then have it?
lets see some pics of the inside and......more pics
lets see some pics of the inside and......more pics