Removing Radiator Fan assembly 88 S4 AT
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I am Removing Radiator Fan assembly 88 S4 AT. two bolts on top, two from bottom (where missing), unhooked all electrical from fans, and where clip onto fan housing, top radiator hose moved out of way, air pump hose off housing. Should it now pull straight up and out? Don't want to pull too hard if I am missing something.
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2 oil cooler lines on the right and 2 tranny lines on the left. I've heard that not all cars have the oil cooler lines. The fans are the biggest pain. The power steering tank will need to be loosened at least to get the fans out. After the fans are gone, the radiator comes out pretty easy. Seems like I remember an AC line going to the expansion valve giving me a hard time. This all off the top of my head.
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If you are just taking the fan shroud off, it sounds you have it covered. Just some wiggling. First time I removed mine, I pulled the bottom radiator hose too, but that is a mess and is unnecessary. Once you do it once, you wonder why you ever tried to work on your Alternator/AC Compressor/Power Steering/Air Pump/whatever without taking it off. Takes <10 minutes and really opens up the area.
-Ken Rudd
-Ken Rudd
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usually you have to remove the top OIL line and the PS resivour.
to remove the line connection undo the shroud bolts and un hook the top mounts and slide the shroud back about an inch this leaves room for the 32 and 27 mm wrenches
to remove the line connection undo the shroud bolts and un hook the top mounts and slide the shroud back about an inch this leaves room for the 32 and 27 mm wrenches
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I did remove the top oil line to get the unit back in there. I also was unaware of the tabs that the shroud fit into on the bottom edge, I would not have been able to locate correctly w/out removing the oil line. Thanks for the input.
JG
JG
Last edited by JG928S4; 08-04-2008 at 06:54 PM.
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..
Last edited by Shark2626; 08-01-2019 at 09:27 AM.
#14
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The hose from the little smog pump filter in the center of the fan console needs to come off, and it gets restrained back towards the crossbar. As others mention, the power steering fluid reservoir mounting hose clamp gets loosened so the reservoir can move forward and out of the way. The top oil cooler hose on the left (driver's side on US cars...) radiator tank must be removed. Tie a plastic bag over the hose to manage the dribbles.
The wiring harness for the two fans gets unplugged from the fan motors, and pulled back out of the little clips on the can console frame, then draped forward over the radiator sheet out of the way.
The two main air hoses to the air cleaner housing are removed.
There are two screws with 10mm hex heads on the top of the radiator tank area passing back into the fan fan console. Those must come out. The fan console has tabs on the bottom that engage lateral openings in the bottom rear edge of the radiator frame. There are also two plastic tabs on the top front of the console that engage the radiator sheet above the radiator. Look for them a couple inches outboard of the two screws.
With everything disconnected, lift the console about 3/4" or so and tilt the top back to free the top plastic tabs. Lift a little more and the bottom tabs will be free of the slots in the bottom of the radiator frame. Lift the left (driver's side...) a little more and move it towards the rear so the console can clear the oil cooler nozzle where the hose used to connect. You'll move the console to your right (car left) some and to the rear to get clear of the trans cooler connections and the upper hose nozzle on the radiator. From there you'll be gently shifting the console position as you lift, being extra careful not to break off any of the mounting/locating tabs. The console will shift to your right so the oil cooler nozzle is in the fan opening, from which point you can left the whole console-and-fans assembly out.
Looking at it and wrestling with it the first time, you''ll convince yourself that it won't come out. Then suddenly it slides out so easily you wonder what you did that suddenly made it work. Figure that out, because you'll need to know when it's time to put it back in.
The wiring harness for the two fans gets unplugged from the fan motors, and pulled back out of the little clips on the can console frame, then draped forward over the radiator sheet out of the way.
The two main air hoses to the air cleaner housing are removed.
There are two screws with 10mm hex heads on the top of the radiator tank area passing back into the fan fan console. Those must come out. The fan console has tabs on the bottom that engage lateral openings in the bottom rear edge of the radiator frame. There are also two plastic tabs on the top front of the console that engage the radiator sheet above the radiator. Look for them a couple inches outboard of the two screws.
With everything disconnected, lift the console about 3/4" or so and tilt the top back to free the top plastic tabs. Lift a little more and the bottom tabs will be free of the slots in the bottom of the radiator frame. Lift the left (driver's side...) a little more and move it towards the rear so the console can clear the oil cooler nozzle where the hose used to connect. You'll move the console to your right (car left) some and to the rear to get clear of the trans cooler connections and the upper hose nozzle on the radiator. From there you'll be gently shifting the console position as you lift, being extra careful not to break off any of the mounting/locating tabs. The console will shift to your right so the oil cooler nozzle is in the fan opening, from which point you can left the whole console-and-fans assembly out.
Looking at it and wrestling with it the first time, you''ll convince yourself that it won't come out. Then suddenly it slides out so easily you wonder what you did that suddenly made it work. Figure that out, because you'll need to know when it's time to put it back in.