Alternator belt question
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Stratford-upon-Avon
Alternator belt question
Today I decided to investigate a slow PS leak which I think is at the junction of supply hose and pump (I've already replaced section of return hose to reservoir, and replaced reservoir while I was at it). There's a lot of PS oil in vicinity of alternator! I don't think it's a high pressure leak as the reservoir level drops fairly slowly. Anyway will know more when alt is out the way!
I held off doing this up till now as it looked hard to drop alternator with the car just on axle stands.
It was hard to loosen the adjuster bolt (the big 17mm one) which is in a spot with tight access for sockets/wrenches. The bolt was too tight for me to loosen by hand but I did it by pushing on ratchet with my foot!
I loosened the pivot bolt and lifted the alternator as high as it would go (it doesn't go all the way up the slot) but the belt was still pretty tight - I had to lever it off with a big screwdriver.
As it was hard pulling the belt off I'm worried about putting it back on (actually I'll replace it). What's the best way of getting the alternator belt back on?
While I was down there I noticed the PS belt was frayed so need to change that as well. It's behind the air pump belt so do I have to remove this belt before I remove the PS belt? Again are there any tips for replacing the PS belt (I may remove the pump and recondition it with the repair kit while I'm there)?
Thanks
I held off doing this up till now as it looked hard to drop alternator with the car just on axle stands.
It was hard to loosen the adjuster bolt (the big 17mm one) which is in a spot with tight access for sockets/wrenches. The bolt was too tight for me to loosen by hand but I did it by pushing on ratchet with my foot!
I loosened the pivot bolt and lifted the alternator as high as it would go (it doesn't go all the way up the slot) but the belt was still pretty tight - I had to lever it off with a big screwdriver.
As it was hard pulling the belt off I'm worried about putting it back on (actually I'll replace it). What's the best way of getting the alternator belt back on?
While I was down there I noticed the PS belt was frayed so need to change that as well. It's behind the air pump belt so do I have to remove this belt before I remove the PS belt? Again are there any tips for replacing the PS belt (I may remove the pump and recondition it with the repair kit while I'm there)?
Thanks
Under the Lift
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The alternator adjuster bracket top end bolts to the block through the cassette with a large bolt (17mm head). Loosen that bolt too and you will be able to swing the alternator in further. Make sure your belt is the correct length.
Yes, you have to remove the belts in order unless you are a magician with Chinese rings. For the PS belt, note there is a "hidden" third bolt that holds the pump bracket to the cassette. It's down near just to the left of the top of the alternator.
Yes, you have to remove the belts in order unless you are a magician with Chinese rings. For the PS belt, note there is a "hidden" third bolt that holds the pump bracket to the cassette. It's down near just to the left of the top of the alternator.
Last edited by Bill Ball; Jun 30, 2008 at 05:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,379
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From: Stratford-upon-Avon
The alternator adjuster bracket top end bolts to the block through the cassette with a large bolt (17mm head). Loosen that bolt too and you will be able to swing the alternator in further. Make sure your belt is the correct length.
Yes, you have to remove the belts in order unless you are a magician with Chinese rings. For the PS belt, note there is a "hidden" third bolt that holds the pump bracket to the cassette. It's down near just to the left of the top of the alternator.
Yes, you have to remove the belts in order unless you are a magician with Chinese rings. For the PS belt, note there is a "hidden" third bolt that holds the pump bracket to the cassette. It's down near just to the left of the top of the alternator.
I think I found the bolt you refer to and took a photo. This is the top of the bracket.
For now it's academic though as I found you can't remove the pivot bolt with the fan shroud in place, so need to get 32mm and 27mm wrenches as I've not disconnected the oil line before.
btw I see people referring to the "cassette" a lot in posts about the alternator and PS pump. What does it mean in this context?
Sorry for newbie questions!
Under the Lift
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I didn't think the fan shroud should block that bolt, but if so, yes, you will need to remove the upper oil one to get teh shroud out on S4's prior to 90.
The cassette is the main bracket that holds alternator and PS pump bracket to the block. You have to remove it (well, remove 3 bolts and pull it forward to let it hang out of the way) in order to get the center timing belt cover off during a timing belt job.
The cassette is the main bracket that holds alternator and PS pump bracket to the block. You have to remove it (well, remove 3 bolts and pull it forward to let it hang out of the way) in order to get the center timing belt cover off during a timing belt job.
Thread Starter
Drifting
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From: Stratford-upon-Avon
I'll post a photo tomorrow but the bolt is blocked by the shroud. Can't even see threaded section at the end when it's out as far as possible and touching shroud. Before I go looking for the wrenches (will have to take out shroud sometime as I need to see why TB is not holding tension) I'll see if lifting the shroud and moving it to left creates more space for that bolt to come out.
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I remember removing that whole alternator/PS console as part of the tbelt effort. I'd be sorely tempted to do that again vs dropping individual pieces. Loosen the bolts and tensioners on the alternator and the PS pump, then the whole assy drops. Floor jack underneath the alternator lifts the whole assy back up to position to get the console bolted to the block again. Does it make the job bigger doing that?
