Straight talk about timing belt re-tensioning job.
06-26-2008, 11:20 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Straight talk about timing belt re-tensioning job.
Okay, so after a couple of intermittent belt tension warnings last week, I decided I needed to address the issue, so I put the car in the garage and got to work.
I've read enough on the BB to have gotten the idea that adjusting the tensioner is an easy job, something an amateur 928 wrench or enthusiast might undertake on any pleasant afternoon. Some have called it an hour worth of work.
Well, it didn't work out that way for me! Crikey, it was an ordeal that stretched out over three days!
True, it came down simply to having the right tool to loosen the adjusting bolt, which in my case, may have been overtightened. I spent a few trips back and forth to Harbor Freight to buy crow foot wrenches, long gear wrenches, double articulated ratchets and stubby box wrenches.
The key combo turned out to be a shallow 17mm socket on the double articulated ratchet, which I was able to use to back off the adjuster bolt. The second key--also essential, IMO-- was a cut-down 17mm box wrench used to retighten the locking nut, a device I must thank Andrew O. for loaning me along with his Kempf tool. Thanks Andrew!
Had I known which tools would be the necessary ones, and had my bolt not been so tight, I probably could have done this in two hours from key turn to key turn. I did not have to pull any hoses, fans, or the radiator, nor did I drop my belly pans; a deep socket and a breaker bar allowed me to turn the crank to TDC.
More than anything else here, I just wanted to rant about the pain of this job, which rivals the broken door handle job as a top shelf PITA!
I've read enough on the BB to have gotten the idea that adjusting the tensioner is an easy job, something an amateur 928 wrench or enthusiast might undertake on any pleasant afternoon. Some have called it an hour worth of work.
Well, it didn't work out that way for me! Crikey, it was an ordeal that stretched out over three days!
True, it came down simply to having the right tool to loosen the adjusting bolt, which in my case, may have been overtightened. I spent a few trips back and forth to Harbor Freight to buy crow foot wrenches, long gear wrenches, double articulated ratchets and stubby box wrenches.
The key combo turned out to be a shallow 17mm socket on the double articulated ratchet, which I was able to use to back off the adjuster bolt. The second key--also essential, IMO-- was a cut-down 17mm box wrench used to retighten the locking nut, a device I must thank Andrew O. for loaning me along with his Kempf tool. Thanks Andrew!
Had I known which tools would be the necessary ones, and had my bolt not been so tight, I probably could have done this in two hours from key turn to key turn. I did not have to pull any hoses, fans, or the radiator, nor did I drop my belly pans; a deep socket and a breaker bar allowed me to turn the crank to TDC.
More than anything else here, I just wanted to rant about the pain of this job, which rivals the broken door handle job as a top shelf PITA!
06-26-2008, 11:29 AM
#2
Race Car
All you should need for this is your standard open-ended 17mm wrench. You won't be able to see the area, but what I like to do is hold the wrench in a way that I can put my index finger over the hole where the bolt head sits. Also, once it is loose, an open-ended wrench can be used many degrees off perpendicular to turn the bolt. You can't do that with a box wrench. Seriously, I have many tools in my toolbox, but usually I end up using the open-ended wrenches in the 928's toolkit when I have problems. Go figure?
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
06-26-2008, 01:44 PM
#6
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
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Sometimes they are easy..sometimes they are not. A simple, short-length 17mm open-end may work fine most of the time, as others say, but if that lock nut is seemingly welded on, then it can get complicated as the open-end could round the nut.
I use a reversible short-length Gearwrench. It's closed-end, so it has little risk of rounding. It needs to be reversible or as you back out the bolt after loosening the lock nut, it could get trapped against the air pump (although that's not an issue if you are merely tightening the adjuster after loosening the locknut). Being a Gearwrench greatly speeds things up over a standard closed-end.
However, if the lock nut is weld-level locked down, you need more leverage, so the fan shroud must come out to allow a standard length Gearwrench. I take the fan shroud out most of the time anyway. It is trivial to do so on 90+ cars, but 87-89 require removing the upper oil line. That's a minor pain, requires 27 and 32mm open-ends, and you will drip oil. Anyway, once that is out, I use a swivel-head Gearwrench as it still is a bit tight down there for a full-length wrench.
Sure, the job is "easy", but I admit there are nuisance things about it, like the 8mm screw-head hex bolts that hold the distributor cap on S4+. Gearwrench to the rescue again. The outer bolt on the right side belt cover is obstructed by a radiator return line, needs a thin-wall socket, and during removal of the cover, it may hit the coil requiring it be loosened and moved.
So chaadster, now that you have done it once, it should be a snap next time.
I use a reversible short-length Gearwrench. It's closed-end, so it has little risk of rounding. It needs to be reversible or as you back out the bolt after loosening the lock nut, it could get trapped against the air pump (although that's not an issue if you are merely tightening the adjuster after loosening the locknut). Being a Gearwrench greatly speeds things up over a standard closed-end.
However, if the lock nut is weld-level locked down, you need more leverage, so the fan shroud must come out to allow a standard length Gearwrench. I take the fan shroud out most of the time anyway. It is trivial to do so on 90+ cars, but 87-89 require removing the upper oil line. That's a minor pain, requires 27 and 32mm open-ends, and you will drip oil. Anyway, once that is out, I use a swivel-head Gearwrench as it still is a bit tight down there for a full-length wrench.
Sure, the job is "easy", but I admit there are nuisance things about it, like the 8mm screw-head hex bolts that hold the distributor cap on S4+. Gearwrench to the rescue again. The outer bolt on the right side belt cover is obstructed by a radiator return line, needs a thin-wall socket, and during removal of the cover, it may hit the coil requiring it be loosened and moved.
So chaadster, now that you have done it once, it should be a snap next time.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 06-26-2008 at 02:37 PM.
06-26-2008, 01:47 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
, slightly edging out the coolant reservoir R&R, almost tied with the master cylinder , ......
Trending Topics
06-26-2008, 03:32 PM
#8
Team Owner
Door handle PITA is even worse if its got the security cover in place, best removed with the widow down
06-26-2008, 03:51 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
It always seems that the "easiest" jobs end up being the most problematic. I like to prepare each job as if I am going into battle, take no prisioners damn it!
06-26-2008, 05:00 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Dprantl-- there was no way a standard box end wrench was fitting in there on my car, at least not with fans in place.
Andrew-- yes, the belt was loose according to the measurements from the Kempf tool. The thing is a little variable depending on how you load it up, so I quadruple checked it initially and after tightening to make sure I was getting an average reading.
I didn't get to do the Porken 32v'r timing set yet, because the Saab (my other car) had an electrical short that filled the cabin with acrid smoke! Now, the cabin fan runs full tilt all the time, and the hazard lights flash intermittently. I'll put that in order first then tackle the timing job, which looks easy. I should be done by Monday if it's OK to get that stuff back to you on Tuesday?
Andrew-- yes, the belt was loose according to the measurements from the Kempf tool. The thing is a little variable depending on how you load it up, so I quadruple checked it initially and after tightening to make sure I was getting an average reading.
I didn't get to do the Porken 32v'r timing set yet, because the Saab (my other car) had an electrical short that filled the cabin with acrid smoke! Now, the cabin fan runs full tilt all the time, and the hazard lights flash intermittently. I'll put that in order first then tackle the timing job, which looks easy. I should be done by Monday if it's OK to get that stuff back to you on Tuesday?
06-26-2008, 05:01 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
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retention?? Never.. JK..
I agree with Bill's approach.. I usually pull the shroud. Makes the job so much easier. It is a pain with the upper oil line, but in my tiny mind, worth the hassle.
I wonder if DR's new fan kit (Twin Screw" Performance Fan System 87-95) would make it easier.. it's less bulky.
I agree with Bill's approach.. I usually pull the shroud. Makes the job so much easier. It is a pain with the upper oil line, but in my tiny mind, worth the hassle.
I wonder if DR's new fan kit (Twin Screw" Performance Fan System 87-95) would make it easier.. it's less bulky.
06-26-2008, 05:04 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Sometimes they are easy..sometimes they are not. A simple, short-length 17mm open-end may work fine most of the time, as others say, but if that lock nut is seemingly welded on, then it can get complicated as the open-end could round the nut.
I use a reversible short-length Gearwrench. It's closed-end, so it has little risk of rounding. It needs to be reversible or as you back out the bolt after loosening the lock nut, it could get trapped against the air pump (although that's not an issue if you are merely tightening the adjuster after loosening the locknut). Being a Gearwrench greatly speeds things up over a standard closed-end.
However, if the lock nut is weld-level locked down, you need more leverage, so the fan shroud must come out to allow a standard length Gearwrench. I take the fan shroud out most of the time anyway. It is trivial to do so on 90+ cars, but 87-89 require removing the upper oil line. That's a minor pain, requires 27 and 32mm open-ends, and you will drip oil. Anyway, once that is out, I use a swivel-head Gearwrench as it still is a bit tight down there for a full-length wrench.
Sure, the job is "easy", but I admit there are nuisance things about it, like the 8mm screw-head hex bolts that hold the distributor cap on S4+. Gearwrench to the rescue again. The outer bolt on the right side belt cover is obstructed by a radiator return line, needs a thin-wall socket, and during removal of the cover, it may hit the coil requiring it be loosened and moved.
So chaadster, now that you have done it once, it should be a snap next time.
I use a reversible short-length Gearwrench. It's closed-end, so it has little risk of rounding. It needs to be reversible or as you back out the bolt after loosening the lock nut, it could get trapped against the air pump (although that's not an issue if you are merely tightening the adjuster after loosening the locknut). Being a Gearwrench greatly speeds things up over a standard closed-end.
However, if the lock nut is weld-level locked down, you need more leverage, so the fan shroud must come out to allow a standard length Gearwrench. I take the fan shroud out most of the time anyway. It is trivial to do so on 90+ cars, but 87-89 require removing the upper oil line. That's a minor pain, requires 27 and 32mm open-ends, and you will drip oil. Anyway, once that is out, I use a swivel-head Gearwrench as it still is a bit tight down there for a full-length wrench.
Sure, the job is "easy", but I admit there are nuisance things about it, like the 8mm screw-head hex bolts that hold the distributor cap on S4+. Gearwrench to the rescue again. The outer bolt on the right side belt cover is obstructed by a radiator return line, needs a thin-wall socket, and during removal of the cover, it may hit the coil requiring it be loosened and moved.
So chaadster, now that you have done it once, it should be a snap next time.
Yeah, the right tool for the job is crucial, and as you say, experience is the rest!
I'm feeling emboldened enough to tackle the cam timing job!
06-27-2008, 08:57 AM
#14
Drifting
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