checkmate1996

Ok I've just got my hands on a 6" 4K RPM orbital waxer/polisher. I must admit that my knowledge in how to effectively(operative word here) wax/buff a car is weak, so I am looking for helpful hints. Anything from trusted products, to tips, etc.

Please let the information flow!!

Jim bailey - 928 International

Practice on your neighbors car Until you burn through the paint a couple times you have not learned to use a buffer ! The edges and ridges (not an issue on a 928) get cut down faster than the flat panels. Some use painters tape to protect the edges.

Tampa 928s

Check out this site it will guide you through this:
http://www.autogeek.net/

928ntslow

Don't use sand.

Alan

Is it a random orbital polish/wax/buffer or just a rotary buffer ?

If its a plain rotary buffer I'd say don't use it (or at least not on your 928...)

Griots Garage sells a random orbital variable speed unit - its actually a rebadged Porter Cable combination polisher/waxer & sander - depending on the attachments you use...

I have one and it very good - you still have to be careful with polish, waxing is pretty easy - you can use the wax/polish pads & products from Griots with it. I paid about`$95 for it about 4 years ago - Griots charges about 2x the Porter Cable discount warehouse price (but you do get some goodies and a case I think).

Main thing is to make sure everything is completely clean before you start - wash & dry and claybar treatment is a good idea to get rid of all residues - then polish if/where needed and move onto waxing with completey separate pads, then buffing the wax out (with a quite different head/bonnet for this).

Best bet really is to practice on another car first...dont risk the 928 till you have a handle on it...

Alan

Skiviking

In the hands of the inexperienced you can screw up a great paint job or make a bad paint job look even worse. My black 83 the PO decided to buff the car up the day before I showed up to do the final negot on the car. Well he burned the paint in a couple spots enough I almost walked away if not for a $2300 drop for the paint and some interior points. Granted the paint wasn't the best n the first place but after his attempt It sure looked worse off!

Marine Blue

I will write up some tips tonight when I'm back home with some product suggestions that work well on shark paint!

or do a search, I did a write up recently......

Jim bailey - 928 International

The orbital action is a lot more forgiving but it still requires practice and a light touch.

Charley B

So I recently bought a Porter Cable 'cause I understood even I couldn't screw up with their deluxe orbital.

Now you're telling me even that could be a weapon in my clumsy hands?

I guess I'm destined to be the Karate Kid for the rest of my life.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Wax on , wax off.....

F451

I was planning on taking this on for my S4, and at the advice of friends was going to practice on my old chevy pickup, but after thinking it over, I'm going to pay a local detailer guy to do it for me.

For the money, time, and piece of mind, its well worth it to me to pay him to take care of the S4.

Good thread, I'm looking forward to reading more. -Ed

RyanPerrella

again, not sure i would break in your polisher on your car. If you have no experience try it on something else first.

Marine Blue

First I wouldn't be too concerned with damaging your paint with an orbital buffer. You would have to be very careless to damage your paint and it won't be because you spent too much time in one place. Typically the damage done by an RO is usually because the operator didn't pay attention to the power cord and rubbed it all over the paint, or maybe they left the RO running and caught the edge (backing plate) on the paint or trim. RO's don't generate enough heat to damage or burn through paint unless you spends some serious time and force.

Here are some steps I use when I am polishing a new to me car.....
Here are the proper steps in order:

1. Wash car thoroughly, leave it wet and move immediately to step 2.

2. Clay the paint from top to bottom (in that order), use diluted car wash soap or spray detailer as a lubricant for the clay otherwise you will leave clay residue on the paint.

3. Wash car again to remove clay residue and dry thoroughly.

4. Wipe paint down one more time with a Microfiber cloth and quick detailer

5. Use a product like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish to perform paint correction (essentially removes fine scratches in the paint) This will not remove deep scratches or acid rain marks. I use the RO with a polishing pad on it's second highest speed with enough pressure to compress the pad to 2/3's of it's original height. I only do one panel at a time and will work the polish into the paint until it's nearly gone, this minimizes hazing on the paint.

6. Wipe down paint again to remove any residue with Microfiber and quick detailer, do this after polishing each panel.

7. Use a hand polish like S100 Shine Enhancing Paint Cleanser (available at Harley Dealers) or something similar like 3M Imperial hand glaze or Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover. I use the RO with a softer finishing pad on it's second highest speed with enough pressure to compress the pad to 2/3's of it's original height. I only do one panel at a time and will work the polish into the paint until it's nearly gone.

8. Wipe down paint again to remove residue with Microfiber and quick detailer

9. Finish with your favorite wax. I personally like S100 Carnauba but NXT Tech or Meguiars #26 are also great products.

Porter cable makes a good polisher which is inexpensive model 7424. Making sure you get the hook and loop (Velcro) backing plate so you can easily connect the buffing pads.

Here's a link to the post which has the information above spread out through the post...https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=Polishing

Charley B

Thanks Afshin. That's what I suspected on the orbital and it's alway's helpful to have numbered steps.

classic_cars

Buy the DVD and learn from the pros...

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1