almost lost my car today
#16
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I just put mine up on the liftbars for the first time this weekend. Mine's an '85, so the bars are different. I didn't expect to have to use wood as a spacer for the rear pads, but I did. Now it's about 16-18 inches up and it's very stable, I'm not sure how it would shift during lifting or lowering.
Don't use any spacers, on the bars, or the jack!
Ack! I need a drink...
#17
Nordschleife Master
I enquired about shipping Ken's but USPS wouldn't take 'em to Australia so had to do it the manly way.
#18
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Glad you are ok Ed, be interesting to hear what you find out the cause was. I imagine your next jacking of the car will be very slow and methodical (not that the this one wasn't).
#19
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I've have my lift bars for a couple years now, and I've never had an issue or a worry about being under the car with them. Just trying to balance the equation here...
#20
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Hi Ken - perhaps I see the problem now? The set I have is the set with the bow at the end, and the round nub on top. My car is an 86.5! That would explain the rotation, presumably, since they are the wrong bars for my car ...I bought them from another R-lister at SITM, and he has an 85 (he just got a lift, so he didn't need them anymore; I should have checked first - my bad).
So, it looks like I have a set of lift bars for sale - $150 (what I paid) plus shipping....
Btw - I think the bars are a good product - this is the only situation that I have ever seen posted, and it is no doubt because I had the wrong type under the car. It went up nicely, and held rock steady while I worked on it, even with the wrong bars.
So, it looks like I have a set of lift bars for sale - $150 (what I paid) plus shipping....
Btw - I think the bars are a good product - this is the only situation that I have ever seen posted, and it is no doubt because I had the wrong type under the car. It went up nicely, and held rock steady while I worked on it, even with the wrong bars.
#21
Owns the Streets
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Both styles of liftbars have outriggers which limit rotation. I've only ever seen the bars rotate on the jacking side, when I was trying to lower on uneven/broken concrete (don't do this!). I've never seen or heard of bars rotating on the opposite side?
The early, round style 78-86.0 has three contact points, so it's super stable, even though the jack points are small and round. The later, square style can be more compact, because the jack points are flat and larger.
It sounds almost like you are using round style bars on a '86.5, which requires the square style. Using the round style on the square pads would be very scary! There's nothing to stop the rear of the bars from sliding off the pad!
Can you post pics of the stands you were using, and the car's jack pads, please?
Which bars do you have? Did you buy them from me?
left: round, 78-86.0 | right: square, 86.5-95 (also 86.0 ROW)
The early, round style 78-86.0 has three contact points, so it's super stable, even though the jack points are small and round. The later, square style can be more compact, because the jack points are flat and larger.
It sounds almost like you are using round style bars on a '86.5, which requires the square style. Using the round style on the square pads would be very scary! There's nothing to stop the rear of the bars from sliding off the pad!
Can you post pics of the stands you were using, and the car's jack pads, please?
Which bars do you have? Did you buy them from me?
left: round, 78-86.0 | right: square, 86.5-95 (also 86.0 ROW)
So to clarify the lift bars are model specific.
Round bars for up to '86 model year.
And 86.5 onwards requires the square bars.
So nobody tries 928 tossing again.
PS. Glad you're alright Linderpat. Give missus Linderpat a big hug.
#22
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Why did you need wood? The rear pad should fit right on the car's rear pad. The small squashed pipe on top fits up in between the weld seam, and the seat belt bolt, to locate the bar. (Also, the front outrigger goes to the inside. Early style is L/R.)
Don't use any spacers, on the bars, or the jack!
Ack! I need a drink...
Don't use any spacers, on the bars, or the jack!
Ack! I need a drink...
Glad you got your issue figured out Pat. Looks like I'll be fixing mine today.
#23
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It can get a little messy, but it's not a bad idea to lube up the contact point of the bar to the stands.
The squashed tube on the early, round style can be 'massaged' with a hammer to line up the rear jack point perfectly for your car. There is some variation car to car, depending on whether Hans oder Frans was doing the spot welding.
Before I got my four post lift (), I was using HF 12-ton stands, along with a high lift, adjustable height, steel jack. One side up on to the lowest 6-ton position, over to the other side and up on to the lowest 12, back over to the 6-ton side, and up on to 12's. ~21" of lift at the lowest position!
If you can't fit the jack and bar to slide under easily, just jack up the car at the front jack point with the jack only, this will leave the car sitting with tons of room.
#25
Nordschleife Master
This happens when you are using a jack of poor quality and the wheels on the jack do not roll freely enough. As you lower one side of the car it swings in and under, pulling the jack in. If the jack doesnt come in one of them will roll.
#26
Burning Brakes
Hokey Dokey. Guess I'll be writing a great big "R" and "L" on the bars. The 'small squashed pipe' on top did line up next to the bolt on mine, and it didn't look like it would go the other way, but maybe I've got them reversed.
Glad you got your issue figured out Pat. Looks like I'll be fixing mine today.
Glad you got your issue figured out Pat. Looks like I'll be fixing mine today.
Hope you are well. I thought you guys might enjoy this post given the subject of this thread. http://993c4s.com/advise/mainenance-...es-race-ramps/
John
#27
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#28
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
#29
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#30
I am always in a state of stress when trying to lift the 928. Its just not as easy as other cars, either because I am more concerned about it falling, or because the points are more difficult to get to.