Prep for chroming...
06-10-2008, 08:25 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Québec, Québec, Canada
Posts: 695
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Prep for chroming...
Well... Firstly, Hi!
I bought a 1979 928 a month ago. It's not really for transport but more to rebuild it, as it's not in a great great shape. But the mechanic look solid (and sound too!). I have to say... It's my first car.
(Yeah, some say I start a bit high)
In one of the thing I planned, is to chrome the intake parts. I've seen someone's avatar with a picture of that, and it looks awesome.
However, I'm not really familiar with the process. I manage to get a cheap intake block on eBay for 36$ to try preping it. (In case I damage it, I still have my original one)
Anybody got a link to steps on how to prep engine part for chroming? Is the chroming done all over the parts or there is way to protect the inside, or it doesn't matter?
Any help or tips would be really welcome!
I bought a 1979 928 a month ago. It's not really for transport but more to rebuild it, as it's not in a great great shape. But the mechanic look solid (and sound too!). I have to say... It's my first car.
(Yeah, some say I start a bit high)In one of the thing I planned, is to chrome the intake parts. I've seen someone's avatar with a picture of that, and it looks awesome.
However, I'm not really familiar with the process. I manage to get a cheap intake block on eBay for 36$ to try preping it. (In case I damage it, I still have my original one)
Anybody got a link to steps on how to prep engine part for chroming? Is the chroming done all over the parts or there is way to protect the inside, or it doesn't matter?
Any help or tips would be really welcome!
06-10-2008, 08:35 PM
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
The chroming process is electroplating and little will go inside since it is drawn to the metal by the electrical charge before it can travel inside. The part must be very , very smooth and be sure that the plater you select does more than just a layer of chrome....
06-10-2008, 09:14 PM
#3
Anthony Tate is the guy with the shiny intake on his avatar. I believe that most sand out and polish them rather than painting them. Zoop Seal is a sealer that can be used to lock in the shine. Some also powder coat them, but that is usually reserved for the 85+ manifolds.
06-10-2008, 10:22 PM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The aluminum manifold takes a LOT of prep to get anything close to decent chrome finish. Much better/easier/cheaper to get it polished.
That said, focus first on all the things needed to get the car running correctly and reliably. After that, if you still need the shiny intakes, go for it.
Welcome to the 928 section of Rennlist too. Best place and best support you'll ever find for you and your project. Read the new users/first poster/visitors thread at the top of the page, and you'll be off to a great start. Pay the pittance membership fee to join Rennlist, and post some info about yourself and your car. Location, history, etc. There may be nearby expertise that will help you over some of the more common new-owner hurdles.
That said, focus first on all the things needed to get the car running correctly and reliably. After that, if you still need the shiny intakes, go for it.
Welcome to the 928 section of Rennlist too. Best place and best support you'll ever find for you and your project. Read the new users/first poster/visitors thread at the top of the page, and you'll be off to a great start. Pay the pittance membership fee to join Rennlist, and post some info about yourself and your car. Location, history, etc. There may be nearby expertise that will help you over some of the more common new-owner hurdles.
06-10-2008, 10:40 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Québec, Québec, Canada
Posts: 695
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I don't have THAT much cash... 
Everything I can do, I will do it myself.
Like the leaky torque tube joint... It's 2000$CAN that I got to pay... Sadly.
I don't have a super knowledge of the past of the car.
It came directly from Germany, as everything in it written in german.
Got imported here (in Canada) around 1985.
So now, it's here, in Québec Canada.
It's a Petrolium Blue 1979.
The list of stuff that require my attention is a bit long...
- Leaky torque tube joint
- Rear left boot is broken
- Front spacer are loose
- The vacuum lines are old and begin to crack (Starting replacing them for silicon line)
- Previous owner made some repair by himself that look horrible... Like he replace the 2 air intake tube by aluminium tube. (Dryer tubes!)
- The dash and the pod are cracked.
- The leather is old and cracked.
- 2 strap of the air filter assembly are gone
- timing belt is nice, but all other belt are old
- the brake oil tank is leaking
- Good part of the engine electric cables are to be redone
- Idle when on Park is going berzerk.. But on neutral it's ok.
Aside from that...
There is no rust. The engine turn really well and start well.
I paid 6000$CAN for it... I admit I paid probably too much. But I love it anyway... I plan to rebuild it...
Everything I can do, I will do it myself.
Like the leaky torque tube joint... It's 2000$CAN that I got to pay... Sadly.
I don't have a super knowledge of the past of the car.
It came directly from Germany, as everything in it written in german.
Got imported here (in Canada) around 1985.
So now, it's here, in Québec Canada.
It's a Petrolium Blue 1979.
The list of stuff that require my attention is a bit long...
- Leaky torque tube joint
- Rear left boot is broken
- Front spacer are loose
- The vacuum lines are old and begin to crack (Starting replacing them for silicon line)
- Previous owner made some repair by himself that look horrible... Like he replace the 2 air intake tube by aluminium tube. (Dryer tubes!)
- The dash and the pod are cracked.
- The leather is old and cracked.
- 2 strap of the air filter assembly are gone
- timing belt is nice, but all other belt are old
- the brake oil tank is leaking
- Good part of the engine electric cables are to be redone
- Idle when on Park is going berzerk.. But on neutral it's ok.
Aside from that...
There is no rust. The engine turn really well and start well.
I paid 6000$CAN for it... I admit I paid probably too much. But I love it anyway... I plan to rebuild it...
06-11-2008, 04:02 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Welcome to the Shark Asylum.
When you say leaky torque tube joint I assume you mean leaky torque converter. That's probably a $10 seal and a weekend or two under the car if you're a serious DIY type.
The CV boots are less than $20 per pair IIRC, and unless the PO has installed later halfshafts you can remove them without even having to take off a wheel or mess with the infamous "332 ft-lb nut". If you want to see what you'rre in for, check here.
The other thing you'll want to do before you waste any time troubleshooting that idle problem is to check all hoses under the hood. Replace any that are not pliable. You'll probably find several that are hard as rocks and not sealing properly.
Anyway, enjoy!
When you say leaky torque tube joint I assume you mean leaky torque converter. That's probably a $10 seal and a weekend or two under the car if you're a serious DIY type.
The CV boots are less than $20 per pair IIRC, and unless the PO has installed later halfshafts you can remove them without even having to take off a wheel or mess with the infamous "332 ft-lb nut". If you want to see what you'rre in for, check here.
The other thing you'll want to do before you waste any time troubleshooting that idle problem is to check all hoses under the hood. Replace any that are not pliable. You'll probably find several that are hard as rocks and not sealing properly.
Anyway, enjoy!