docmirror

This is not to disparage my parts source first of all. He didn't make the product. Now on to my dilemma.

I've purchased new conrod nuts for my rebuild, and as I was putting it on the con bolt, I noticed that the side-play was more than the nut I removed. I took the new nut off, and inspected it, and to my surprise the teeth on the new nut are flattened off, and not sharp. I was expecting the inner profile to look like this:

VVVVVVVVVVVVV

With sharp teeth coming to a point in a spiral of course. Instead, it looks like:

\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/

Where the tip of the thread dulled off. This could be explained by over-boring the original casting(forging?), or some other defect in mfg.

I'm not going to install these, and I'm wondering what source I should try for new, better con rod nuts. ARP is the only one I can think of.

<edit: I just looked at the ARP nuts, and they aren't ribbed on the cheek. Blast, this is getting harder to do everytime I turn around.>

Thoughts?

123quattro

I don't have anything to add, other than I laughed as I clicked on this thread...

docmirror

That was my intention, to add a bit of levity with my entendre. So, I put the old nuts back on and torqued it to 54 Ft Lb. It snugged up very nice. I called a few old race buddies and they asked what kind of motor, RPM, any history, etc. I gave them the answers, and both said to reuse what I have, if they haven't been torqued more than three times. I know I'm using the nuts that came off the car since new, so this would be the second torque on them, except the one set I tested which now have three.

I've found another source for the nuts, but they also don't have the ribs on the cheek. Arrghh. Looks like I might be using my old one, as I surely don't want to use the new one's from Bilstien.

mark kibort

sounds like a personal problem

Jim bailey - 928 International

Stop playing with them and finish that engine .

Randy V

Perhaps your nuts need a good pumicing?

docmirror

Boy, I'm glad I know what the fluck I'm doing. If I had to rely on youse guys for tech support I'd be screwed.

BTW, the cam timing procedure is the most convoluted, bizarre reading I've seen since I taught Jr college. Supposedly I'm to have bank 1-4 set at intake #1 @ 2.8mm(GT/CS) at 20deg ATC mark, and bank 5-8 set at intake 6 @ 3.1mm(GT/CS) at 20deg ATC mark. The mark in the book quotes that it is timed on cylinder 6? WTF? Don't kill the messenger, that's just what I'm reading on 15-133/137. I don't make sense to me that's for sure.

BrianG

I know that rolled threads have that flattened profile, as compared to cut threads... but that's with bolts. Not sure if that applies to nuts as well.....

Want your nuts rolled???

justin

Doc, call me tomorrow, so we can talk about your nuts.

Ed Scherer

We could all help a little more if we knew what the condition of the sack was that they came in.

RyanPerrella

Go with OE porsche nuts, they are cheap and have ZERO issues.

Sorry, when OE is available then why wouldn't you go with it? You'll save a small fortune too if my estimate on your source is correct.

Mrmerlin

the timing proceedure is to do each set of cams seperatly so you use the intake of the #1 to adjust the passenger side cam to pulley and the intake of the #6 to adjust the driverside cams to pulley

docmirror

They are OE nuts I'm having the issue with. Right out of a Porsche baggie.

docmirror

Yeah, I got it, but the procedure write up really sucks. Actually, my crank is at the 45 mark now, and I doubt I'll be able to run it forward to 20 ATC. We'll see soon.

Charles Parkinson

Doc, what do mean when you refer to "don't have ribs on the cheek"??
FWIW I have used ARP rod bolts & fasteners on non Porsche engines with no failures or problems. Cheers, Charles.