C4 for S4? (Crank Bolt Removal)
06-27-2008, 10:57 AM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Believe me, the thought had crossed my mind man! It has just been so frustrating!! I mean I have been using my ratty looking 944 Turbo as my DD. It needs alot of interior work, and paint! But it runs. The shark is beautiful, inside and out, she just doesn't run right now! arrgghh!!
JimBob
JimBob
06-27-2008, 01:37 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
At this point, my two options would be:
- Weld a large nut to the bolt head and borrow a BIG impact wrench.
- Use a good hole saw and make the head small enough for the crank pulley to come off over the bolt. Then go back to the first option...
- Weld a large nut to the bolt head and borrow a BIG impact wrench.
- Use a good hole saw and make the head small enough for the crank pulley to come off over the bolt. Then go back to the first option...
06-27-2008, 02:25 PM
#37
I too had a problem removing the bolt with a IN231 impact wrench. I think its rated at 550 ft lbs. On the 4th attempt it took about 30-40 secs before the bolt started slowly giving up.
06-27-2008, 03:53 PM
#38
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
As much as I admire the big torque numbers available on some impact gun's I'm also convinced that they were dreamed up by a marketing team. They were convinced that their wrench wouldn't sell unless the adertised number is at least ten percent greater than the competitions' advertising numbers. Meanwhile the guys making the wrench are charged with uilding a tool that someone could actually pick up. Example-- The IR 3/4" drive impact in my tool cabinet, supposedly good for over 800 lbs/ft. Rear axle nut didn't budge. Five foot bar and a hard pull by yours truly and the nut came off quite smoothly. Got a rattle gun that isn't doing the job? It just beats up the bolt head.
Center punch the end of the old bolthead, and drill a pilot hole into it an inch or so. Then drill progressively bigger until you have the bolthead in your hand. Once the head is off, you'll be able to remove the pulley and get some penetrant in there. Kroil works well. The ATF-and-Acetone cocktail might find a good test on this. You'll be able to pull the stub out relatively easily with no loading on the threads.
Center punch the end of the old bolthead, and drill a pilot hole into it an inch or so. Then drill progressively bigger until you have the bolthead in your hand. Once the head is off, you'll be able to remove the pulley and get some penetrant in there. Kroil works well. The ATF-and-Acetone cocktail might find a good test on this. You'll be able to pull the stub out relatively easily with no loading on the threads.
06-27-2008, 06:30 PM
#39
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I don't believe those torque numbers either! My old gun was 550ft lbs and I could always do better by hand! Well the gun I got from Home Depot was 750ft lbs, and where the old gun just clicked, and hammered away, this one managed to round off the rest of the bolt! Arrggh!! Well I think I am going to try to just JB weld the big 3/4" 27mm socket on to the bolt head. hopefully that will take care of the rounding off! Then use the 4 foot bar.. That should do it hopefully... If not torch heat should break down the jb, and I will try the drill out the head.
JimBob
JimBob
