JimBob951

I am thinking the only thing I haven't tried is C4 to remoeve the dang crank bolt!!! Busted 2 1/2" inch breaker bars!! Tried 3/4" with 4 foot bar! 550ft lbs impact wrench! Nothing!! Have only succeeded in rounding the bolt some!! Any other ideas??

Jimbob

Mike B

Yikes...The 3 foot 3/4" breaker bar worked for me when everything else failed.

dr bob

There's another thread on this recently.

Summary--

6pt socket. I use a deep impact socket. 3/4" drive. Long breaker bar and/or extension handle. Mine is a little over 4ft long and has yet to let me down. You can find these at most better tool rental yards. The socket is 1 1/16", fits the 27mm bolt head. 27mm = about 1.062992", while 1 1/16 = 1.062500", closer than the tolerance on most impact sockets anyway. The 1 1/16" impact socket is usually a tighter fit.

JimBob951

Yeah, originally used a 1 1/16 12 pt, but started to round the bolt.. then to went to 27mm, both 3/4" and 4 foot bar.. No luck.. Saw all the recent threads, and multiple searches. Think I will skip the using the starter method! lol

Jimbob

Adam Geist

This may require a 3/4" impact gun with a 6 point socket. I've had the use my Snap On 3/4" impact gun (800 ft.lbs. of torque) to remove crankshaft bolts in the past from Acura/Honda engines. The bolt torque isn't that high (180 ft.lbs.) but rust/corrosion seems to lock the bolt/washer assembly to the pulley.

Does your car have the belly pan? If not, water kicked up from the road may have caused some corrosion on the bolt/washer. Soak the bolt/washer combo well with Kroil before attempting to remove it.

Tails

3/4" "T" handle, 27mm six sided socket and an 8 foot length of galvanised steel water pipe.
Turn engine into correct position, install flywheel lock, slip pipe over "T" handle and set yourself to get maximum leverage on pipe and it should come undone.

If you wish to stabilise the socket on the crankshaft end bolt, get a piece of wood, say 2" by 1", cut a "V" groove in one end and then measure the high of the underside of the socket to the floor and then cut you piece of wood to suit, so that it supports the socket to ensure it remains in the same axial plane as the crankshaft bolt whilst applying force.

Safety message: Be careful if you stand under the pipe whilst pulling on it in case the bolt gives suddenly or the socket slips off the bolt. Been there, done that and ended up in hospital. It is better to stand to the side and watch that you don't damage the fender if it gives suddenly.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

cold_beer839

Are you turning it the right way?

Just addressing the basics....

Mrmerlin

you might try some PB blaster and then some torch heat, wipe the Pb out of the pulley first

Hilton

I tried a 3' breaker bar and 3/4" drive deep socket.. no luck using my own strength. I ended up using someone here's suggestion of using a jack to push the end of the bar upwards.

Just make sure you put a couple of bits of wood or similar either side so that the bar doesn't slip free and bounce into anything valuable like your leg or the car.

I aligned the wheels of the trolley jack so that it roled in the same plane as the bar moved, to compensate for movement of the pivot while jacking up the end of the bar. The weight of the front end of the car did the rest

UKKid35

That's why I prefer to use the starter motor, rather than a breaker bar plus extension.

AO

Mechanical leverage is your friend... Use a longer bar. Go 6' or 8' if you have to. I'll bet someone used locktite or something on the threads. You might try heat to break that stuff down.

UKKid35

If you have to use a breaker bar, then put the car on a lift and do it from underneath. Then you can have someone else assist without any possibility of causing damage if anything moves more quickly than you expect.

Alternatively Hilton's idea is worth trying, but I would lower the car with the breaker bar on blocks, rather than use a jack under the breaker bar.

69gaugeman

Torque multiplier. 79$ at princess auto. works every time

Dan87951

I agree heat does wonders! I also went to home depot and bought some plumbing pipe to extend my breaker bar another 2.5 feet. Mine broke loose after that.

JimBob951

Those are some more good ideas! I tried to the breakerbar w/blocks and jack, but the 27mm socket keeps slipping off!! I am gonna try the v-cut in the block of wood. Have used about a can of PB blaster on it (after the WD-40 didn't do anything) still nothing. Got a torch, so gonna try the heat too. Was nervous about that, as someone said it could melt the front main seal?

Jimbob