What is a stroker
05-30-2008, 05:44 PM
#31
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05-30-2008, 05:47 PM
#32
Drifting
> how much $$$ we talkin' for the stroker? Just engine work
Done right, you're talking an easy $10k in parts, and probably a similar amount in labor.
The custom stroker crank alone will run you $3k to $5k, then you'll probably need custom rods, Custom pistons, bigger valves, reground cams, port and polish the head, bore and re-surface the block, lower the oil pan, add a windage tray, etc. And now you're ready to start spending money/time balancing the entire assembly, putting it all together, strapping it to a dyno and shark-tuning it to use the optimal levels of fuel/air/timing...
Done right, you're talking an easy $10k in parts, and probably a similar amount in labor.
The custom stroker crank alone will run you $3k to $5k, then you'll probably need custom rods, Custom pistons, bigger valves, reground cams, port and polish the head, bore and re-surface the block, lower the oil pan, add a windage tray, etc. And now you're ready to start spending money/time balancing the entire assembly, putting it all together, strapping it to a dyno and shark-tuning it to use the optimal levels of fuel/air/timing...
05-30-2008, 05:59 PM
#33
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Ya know, I really don't see what the problem is when driving a stroker. Mine has at least as much HP & TQ as anyone elses (problably more) and it is really pretty mild if you use your brain.
Last weekend I took Bill Ball for a 20-25 mile ride up the canyon at the NORC and the car was perfectly behaved but quite fast. Bill loved the power and the handling on the car and never espressed any fear or uncomfortablness with the behavior of the car even at triple digit speeds in the canyon.
I've also given rides to Brian, Marc, Susan, Amy, Erik, Rick and many many others with out burning up my tires. Use some common sense when driving them and you simply will not have any problems.
Sorry, but I don't get it.
Last weekend I took Bill Ball for a 20-25 mile ride up the canyon at the NORC and the car was perfectly behaved but quite fast. Bill loved the power and the handling on the car and never espressed any fear or uncomfortablness with the behavior of the car even at triple digit speeds in the canyon.
I've also given rides to Brian, Marc, Susan, Amy, Erik, Rick and many many others with out burning up my tires. Use some common sense when driving them and you simply will not have any problems.
Sorry, but I don't get it.
05-30-2008, 06:24 PM
#34
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No Tim YOU DO get it !! I have instructed many students over the last few years and for the most part they do NOT know how to drive... Last outing the guy had the new Audi v-8 coupe ... AWD ,ABS, stability management with a manual transmission. The ABS saved him more than once , ditto on stability but it did not stop him from shifting into third instead of fifth on the straight on two successive laps. Yet his timed lap at the end of the day was about 2 seconds quicker than the old very brown 1980 
All that traction and horsepower does work !
All that traction and horsepower does work !
05-30-2008, 06:31 PM
#35
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I'm w/tim on that one.. smooth throttle control, decent LSD, tires, suspension, etc and it's great. act like a spaz on the inputs and you can make it terrrifying - just ask brian, hehehe.
course, there's more to getting around a real track quickly than just power - jim & his brown OB prove that regularly. if jim wasn't w/the guy I doubt he would've even survived the day...
sterling - glad you're back on the road man!! whooo hoo!!
course, there's more to getting around a real track quickly than just power - jim & his brown OB prove that regularly. if jim wasn't w/the guy I doubt he would've even survived the day...
sterling - glad you're back on the road man!! whooo hoo!!
05-30-2008, 07:14 PM
#36
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05-30-2008, 08:38 PM
#37
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> Dang, Shawn. I want a ride in that thing when you're done.
I didn't even mention the rest of the work being done while its apart: SuperClamp to keep the torque tube where it belongs, uprated harmonic stabilizer, extra secret re-ground cam setup using pieces from an S4 and (yes) a GTS, stainless steel brake lines, bilsteins, X-pipe, dual 3 inch cats, 3 inch exhaust to high flow mids and final... tons more
I've indeed tossed out all fiscal sanity.
And yes, I'll be happy to give you a ride in it... in about 2 months I figure.
I didn't even mention the rest of the work being done while its apart: SuperClamp to keep the torque tube where it belongs, uprated harmonic stabilizer, extra secret re-ground cam setup using pieces from an S4 and (yes) a GTS, stainless steel brake lines, bilsteins, X-pipe, dual 3 inch cats, 3 inch exhaust to high flow mids and final... tons more
I've indeed tossed out all fiscal sanity.
And yes, I'll be happy to give you a ride in it... in about 2 months I figure.
05-31-2008, 12:55 AM
#38
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Costs----
Moldex crank--$2500/22 week delivery (Brendan was asking $2500 for his Scat awhile back)
Oliver rods--$2000 (Sterling got a good deal on his....)
custom pistons--$2000 and up
block prep--$1500 (approx...US Chrome-includes boring, NICOM plating, shipping/3 week turn around time)
balancing--varies
options--(crank scraper, windage tray/pan mods, etc.....)
plus the misc rebuild stuff
current talked about typical combination is:
92.75mm stroke crank, 5.75 inch (chevy) rods, 104mm pistons (968, JE or other), 5.0L block Yield is approx 6.5 liters. There are others building bigger, but more involved strokers.....
My combination would/may be 92.75 stroke, 6 inch rods, 106mm bore. Yield would be 7 liters. Longer rods leave the piston at TDC longer, resulting in more power than a shorter rod motor. Rod/ stroke ratio is better with long rods.
you can certainly do it for less if you are patient and shop around, so I have read.
Many, many choices......
--Russ
Moldex crank--$2500/22 week delivery (Brendan was asking $2500 for his Scat awhile back)
Oliver rods--$2000 (Sterling got a good deal on his....)
custom pistons--$2000 and up
block prep--$1500 (approx...US Chrome-includes boring, NICOM plating, shipping/3 week turn around time)
balancing--varies
options--(crank scraper, windage tray/pan mods, etc.....)
plus the misc rebuild stuff
current talked about typical combination is:
92.75mm stroke crank, 5.75 inch (chevy) rods, 104mm pistons (968, JE or other), 5.0L block Yield is approx 6.5 liters. There are others building bigger, but more involved strokers.....
My combination would/may be 92.75 stroke, 6 inch rods, 106mm bore. Yield would be 7 liters. Longer rods leave the piston at TDC longer, resulting in more power than a shorter rod motor. Rod/ stroke ratio is better with long rods.
you can certainly do it for less if you are patient and shop around, so I have read.
Many, many choices......
--Russ
05-31-2008, 12:59 AM
#39
Yup, you have it correct.
Now show us the one you built.
Now show us the one you built.
Costs----
Moldex crank--$2500/22 week delivery (Brendan was asking $2500 for his Scat awhile back)
Oliver rods--$2000 (Sterling got a good deal on his....)
custom pistons--$2000 and up
block prep--$1500 (approx...US Chrome-includes boring, NICOM plating, shipping/3 week turn around time)
balancing--varies
options--(crank scraper, windage tray/pan mods, etc.....)
plus the misc rebuild stuff
current talked about typical combination is:
92.75mm stroke crank, 5.75 inch (chevy) rods, 104mm pistons (968, JE or other), 5.0L block Yield is approx 6.5 liters. There are others building bigger, but more involved strokers.....
My combination would/may be 92.75 stroke, 6 inch rods, 106mm bore. Yield would be 7 liters. Longer rods leave the piston at TDC longer, resulting in more power than a shorter rod motor. Rod/ stroke ratio is better with long rods.
you can certainly do it for less if you are patient and shop around, so I have read.
Many, many choices......
--Russ
Moldex crank--$2500/22 week delivery (Brendan was asking $2500 for his Scat awhile back)
Oliver rods--$2000 (Sterling got a good deal on his....)
custom pistons--$2000 and up
block prep--$1500 (approx...US Chrome-includes boring, NICOM plating, shipping/3 week turn around time)
balancing--varies
options--(crank scraper, windage tray/pan mods, etc.....)
plus the misc rebuild stuff
current talked about typical combination is:
92.75mm stroke crank, 5.75 inch (chevy) rods, 104mm pistons (968, JE or other), 5.0L block Yield is approx 6.5 liters. There are others building bigger, but more involved strokers.....
My combination would/may be 92.75 stroke, 6 inch rods, 106mm bore. Yield would be 7 liters. Longer rods leave the piston at TDC longer, resulting in more power than a shorter rod motor. Rod/ stroke ratio is better with long rods.
you can certainly do it for less if you are patient and shop around, so I have read.
Many, many choices......
--Russ
05-31-2008, 01:06 AM
#41
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1. Thank you.
2. I have not built a 928 stroker yet, just asked the questions about combinations, pricing, etc. Information above is from what I have researched. I have built several BBC and BB Mopar strokers. My last BBC stroker is currently in my best friend's Quick 16 Chevy II. It runs a tick under 7.70's at over 175 in the 1/4......
--Russ
05-31-2008, 03:28 AM
#42
Nordschleife Master
1. Thank you.
2. I have not built a 928 stroker yet, just asked the questions about combinations, pricing, etc. Information above is from what I have researched. I have built several BBC and BB Mopar strokers. My last BBC stroker is currently in my best friend's Quick 16 Chevy II. It runs a tick under 7.70's at over 175 in the 1/4......
--Russ
2. I have not built a 928 stroker yet, just asked the questions about combinations, pricing, etc. Information above is from what I have researched. I have built several BBC and BB Mopar strokers. My last BBC stroker is currently in my best friend's Quick 16 Chevy II. It runs a tick under 7.70's at over 175 in the 1/4......
--Russ
found this courtesy of Google, the nicest one i could find too.
WOW! Who needs a Ferrari when you get get one of these bad boys! Does this come with a Hemi........oh wait, its not a crapstler
05-31-2008, 08:01 AM
#43
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Well, the 2dr version with a V8 and Cragers was fun in its day.
And the backseat at the drive-in was ample, that's a good word....
(See, its still a stroker thread)
Maybe superior to the 928 in this regard.
And the backseat at the drive-in was ample, that's a good word....
(See, its still a stroker thread)
Maybe superior to the 928 in this regard.
