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Rod bearing assembly lube and con rods(plastigauge crush)

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Old 05-25-2008, 05:40 PM
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Tony
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Default Rod bearing assembly lube and con rods(plastigauge crush)

Question, as i apply the assembly lube to the bearing shells and the crank journal, is there an problem if any gets between the mating surface halves of the connecting rods? Im thinking along the lines of crush..clearance etc....will this stuff just ooze out and its a non player? or should i get it the mating surfaces as clean as a whistle?

Last edited by Tony; 05-27-2008 at 02:42 PM.
Old 05-25-2008, 06:01 PM
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RyanPerrella
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i would make sure the mating surfaces of the rods are clean and oil free. Same goes for the part of the rods which the bearing shell's touch. I would clean them up then try again.

Not sure what would happen if you dont, but if you question it, chances are you should rinse and repeat.
Old 05-25-2008, 06:10 PM
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Tony
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Thanks Ryan. I figured the cleaner the better...just a metal to metal surface between the two halves. Some will obviously get in there as the halves are squeezed together.

I am VERY glad the engine is out doing this, it is so much easier and cleaner. I still feeel like im assmebling a bomb or something...Famous last words huh!...everything is handled with kids golves...delicate...clean. Although it fascinates me, id make a terrible surgeon!

Now i see my Tq wrench is in INCH POUNDS!! time for a conversion

Last edited by Tony; 05-25-2008 at 07:36 PM.
Old 05-25-2008, 07:32 PM
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Just did the 1-5 set. I got the surface as clear as i could but the prelube still oozed out as the nut was torqued. 650 lb inches.
Old 05-25-2008, 09:18 PM
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RyanPerrella
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650 in/lbs?

I think the rod bolts are supposed to be torqued to 66 ft/lbs which is not the same as 650 in/lbs
Old 05-25-2008, 11:59 PM
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largecar379
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the assembly lube is a non-issue. you can assemble with some lube between the bearing and the rod/cap, but it is better to wipe clean. you don't have to be crazy about this--as the engine runs, there will be some oil in between the bearing and the rod/cap......

your torque settings are an issue. Ryan is correct about torque measurements. over torque, and the bolts get stretched beyond their capability. they will become loose, possibly destroying the bottom end.

did you use NEW rod bolt nuts? if not, you risk rod bolts coming loose as these are one use only.

--R
Old 05-26-2008, 12:27 AM
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jon928se
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If 66 ft/lbs is correct then you need 792 in/lbs or the other way around 650 in/lbs is only 54ft/lbs so another 12ft/lbs torque is required.
Old 05-26-2008, 12:34 AM
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largecar379
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Originally Posted by jon928se
If 66 ft/lbs is correct then you need 792 in/lbs or the other way around 650 in/lbs is only 54ft/lbs so another 12ft/lbs torque is required.
either way...his torque settings are not correct.

too tight or too loose results in rods coming loose.......

--R
Old 05-26-2008, 12:44 AM
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Tony
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I see a lot of "if"....and "i think" in ya'llz posts above.
uh oh..did i mess up my math
eh..ill just reset the wrench and tweek it.

"75nm, rod bolts with ribbed surface"

1 newton meter = 0.737562149 foot pounds

75 newton meter = 663.805 932 57 pound inch

im shy what..10 pound inches.

With JB weld on my block anything is game

Last edited by Tony; 05-26-2008 at 01:24 AM.
Old 05-26-2008, 03:01 AM
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Darien
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Alright, where's the pics

How's the progress going over there? You would choose to perform this task while I'm busy getting ready to move...hope the T-wrench is working out for you, at least it's getting broken in the right way
Old 05-26-2008, 03:06 AM
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RyanPerrella
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Tony 66 ft/lbs (EDIT: correct figure is 55 ft/lbs as per the WSM)

buy a damn torque wrench that reads in ft/lbs and save yourself the trouble of having to do math too LOL

Last edited by RyanPerrella; 05-26-2008 at 12:59 PM.
Old 05-26-2008, 07:53 AM
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75 Nm is what it says in my Tech specs book

This link gives a useful converter.

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm

gives 663 in lbs

or 55 ft lbs

so 66 ft lbs is incorrect (reminds me of the torque for the flexplate clamp bolt)

Looks like you got it right 1st time. Glad you didn't get it over torqued as that would lead to new studs.
Old 05-26-2008, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Darien Nunn
Alright, where's the pics

How's the progress going over there? You would choose to perform this task while I'm busy getting ready to move...hope the T-wrench is working out for you, at least it's getting broken in the right way
yup, 75NM is what i wrote in my notes before i started. You only get one shot at torquing these bolts so i wasnt about to guess...or go into with out knowing

yeah, thats a NICE SnapON tool! Actually my dad has one as well, he gave me it the other day, but since yours was new i thought it would be a better idea to use it instead....
hey,ive still got 6 more to do yet, you guys are coming over today right?


Going OT, but does Snap On have a calibrating service for there wrenches?
Old 05-26-2008, 12:54 PM
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RyanPerrella
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OH SNAP!

I see 75nm and 55 lt/lbs Thats odd. I swear it was 66 honestly !

I am mistaken, sorry Tony

At least my first post said "i think"
Old 05-26-2008, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
OH SNAP!

I see 75nm and 55 lt/lbs Thats odd. I swear it was 66 honestly !

I am mistaken, sorry Tony

At least my first post said "i think"
oh..sure NOW that Ive gone tq'd them to 66ft-nm-inch pounds


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