Rod bearing assembly lube and con rods(plastigauge crush)
#1
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Rod bearing assembly lube and con rods(plastigauge crush)
Question, as i apply the assembly lube to the bearing shells and the crank journal, is there an problem if any gets between the mating surface halves of the connecting rods? Im thinking along the lines of crush..clearance etc....will this stuff just ooze out and its a non player? or should i get it the mating surfaces as clean as a whistle?
Last edited by Tony; 05-27-2008 at 02:42 PM.
#2
Nordschleife Master
i would make sure the mating surfaces of the rods are clean and oil free. Same goes for the part of the rods which the bearing shell's touch. I would clean them up then try again.
Not sure what would happen if you dont, but if you question it, chances are you should rinse and repeat.
Not sure what would happen if you dont, but if you question it, chances are you should rinse and repeat.
#3
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Ryan. I figured the cleaner the better...just a metal to metal surface between the two halves. Some will obviously get in there as the halves are squeezed together.
I am VERY glad the engine is out doing this, it is so much easier and cleaner. I still feeel like im assmebling a bomb or something...Famous last words huh!...everything is handled with kids golves...delicate...clean. Although it fascinates me, id make a terrible surgeon!
Now i see my Tq wrench is in INCH POUNDS!! time for a conversion
I am VERY glad the engine is out doing this, it is so much easier and cleaner. I still feeel like im assmebling a bomb or something...Famous last words huh!...everything is handled with kids golves...delicate...clean. Although it fascinates me, id make a terrible surgeon!
Now i see my Tq wrench is in INCH POUNDS!! time for a conversion
Last edited by Tony; 05-25-2008 at 07:36 PM.
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Just did the 1-5 set. I got the surface as clear as i could but the prelube still oozed out as the nut was torqued. 650 lb inches.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: not where you think I am
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the assembly lube is a non-issue. you can assemble with some lube between the bearing and the rod/cap, but it is better to wipe clean. you don't have to be crazy about this--as the engine runs, there will be some oil in between the bearing and the rod/cap......
your torque settings are an issue. Ryan is correct about torque measurements. over torque, and the bolts get stretched beyond their capability. they will become loose, possibly destroying the bottom end.
did you use NEW rod bolt nuts? if not, you risk rod bolts coming loose as these are one use only.
--R
your torque settings are an issue. Ryan is correct about torque measurements. over torque, and the bolts get stretched beyond their capability. they will become loose, possibly destroying the bottom end.
did you use NEW rod bolt nuts? if not, you risk rod bolts coming loose as these are one use only.
--R
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: not where you think I am
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#9
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
I see a lot of "if"....and "i think" in ya'llz posts above.
uh oh..did i mess up my math
eh..ill just reset the wrench and tweek it.
"75nm, rod bolts with ribbed surface"
1 newton meter = 0.737562149 foot pounds
75 newton meter = 663.805 932 57 pound inch
im shy what..10 pound inches.
With JB weld on my block anything is game
uh oh..did i mess up my math
eh..ill just reset the wrench and tweek it.
"75nm, rod bolts with ribbed surface"
1 newton meter = 0.737562149 foot pounds
75 newton meter = 663.805 932 57 pound inch
im shy what..10 pound inches.
With JB weld on my block anything is game
Last edited by Tony; 05-26-2008 at 01:24 AM.
#10
Rennlist Member
Alright, where's the pics
How's the progress going over there? You would choose to perform this task while I'm busy getting ready to move...hope the T-wrench is working out for you, at least it's getting broken in the right way
How's the progress going over there? You would choose to perform this task while I'm busy getting ready to move...hope the T-wrench is working out for you, at least it's getting broken in the right way
#11
Nordschleife Master
Tony 66 ft/lbs (EDIT: correct figure is 55 ft/lbs as per the WSM)
buy a damn torque wrench that reads in ft/lbs and save yourself the trouble of having to do math too LOL
buy a damn torque wrench that reads in ft/lbs and save yourself the trouble of having to do math too LOL
Last edited by RyanPerrella; 05-26-2008 at 12:59 PM.
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
75 Nm is what it says in my Tech specs book
This link gives a useful converter.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm
gives 663 in lbs
or 55 ft lbs
so 66 ft lbs is incorrect (reminds me of the torque for the flexplate clamp bolt)
Looks like you got it right 1st time. Glad you didn't get it over torqued as that would lead to new studs.
This link gives a useful converter.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm
gives 663 in lbs
or 55 ft lbs
so 66 ft lbs is incorrect (reminds me of the torque for the flexplate clamp bolt)
Looks like you got it right 1st time. Glad you didn't get it over torqued as that would lead to new studs.
#13
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
yeah, thats a NICE SnapON tool! Actually my dad has one as well, he gave me it the other day, but since yours was new i thought it would be a better idea to use it instead....
hey,ive still got 6 more to do yet, you guys are coming over today right?
Going OT, but does Snap On have a calibrating service for there wrenches?
#15
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter