Mitch Johnson

Installing rebuilt pump, found 3 of the 5 short bolts wouldn't torque down to 6 ft./lb. was able to use 25 mm bots on these.

Problem is the bolt circled in the image, tried a longer bolt (30 mm) and it just spins. Not sure if I can go any longer than that without bottoming out on the thermostat housing.

I'm thinking about JB-Welding a stud in this hole. Hoping that I don't get flamed too hard, but what do you folks think about this?

I am not removing the pump, that's my story and I am sticking to it.

Drilling it out and using a helicoil concerns me as I have no confidence in my ability to do it straight.

Mitch Johnson

Had enough views without comment, perhaps I wrote something stupid...wouldn't be the first time....

I use sealant on the gasket and want to be able to torque it down as soon as possible, yes I am impatient...

Guess I'll try the heli-coil, hate drilling the pump and sacrificing the core value next time around, but this seems to be the best approach initially, if that fails I guess I'll have to try the JB-Weld stud idea.

Sorry for my impatience, thanks for playing...

Bill Ball

Sorry no responses. It's a holiday weekend.

I don't dislike your stud idea.

Helicoil or Time-Serts are used often to repair stripped bolt holes or bolt holes that were drilled out after the bolt snapped during removal.

Why do you need to drill the pump and ruin its core value?

Another option is to tap the hole for a alrger bolt, but that would require drilling out the hole in the pump too.

Mitch Johnson

Thanks Bill,

Holiday weekend...DOH! I lost track.

All I could find locally was a heli-coil like option from Autozone, for M6 it requires a 6.3 mm hole and the tap that came with the tool won't slip in the water pump hole. 6.3 mm drill bit in Idaho Falls, ID....yeah right, best I could offer was 17/64.

As it stands, I put a 35 mm bolt with 3 washers on it, it torques down and the washers 'seem' to be secure so until I pull the water jacket (not looking forward to that) I won't know for sure that it hasn't bottomed out.

Does that hole go all the way through to the t-stat housing?

Adam Geist

Mitch,

Is the water pump installed on the car? If so, it needs to be removed in order to install the heli-coil properly.
Adam

marton

I know a couple of people who have used studs; why not? As you mention they only have a low torque.

Marton

Hilton

Given its a low torque application, I'd just go with some of the epoxy thread repairer stuff. Permatex make one.

Edit: Here's the kit I used:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ead_repair.htm

Mitch Johnson

Call me crazy but I really like the idea of turning them all into studs, no telling how many times they were over-torqued by PO(s), every change I have done required more and more longer bolts...only a matter of time.

Adam,

Yes the pump is installed and I will only remove it as a last resort due to the sealant that I use, I don't want to upset it for just this bolt.

Hilton,

I picked one of those up today, have you any experience with them?

Seems too easy, I am not used to anything being that easy and actually working

I may use it once I have pulled that housing, I am afraid of cementing the t-stat housing and it is notorious enough for difficulty in removal.

Adam Geist

Mitch,

If it was me, I would pull the water pump and install a time-sert (preferred) or heli-coil (very good). On the re-install, I have read the Porsche water pump gasket (blue in color) is the way to good and that is what I have done in the past.

Also, use silver anti-seize on the new water pump bolts (I use the Porsche stuff).

Hope this helps,
Adam

Mitch Johnson

I use the sealant due to the "imperfections" in the sealing surface on the block side, some pitting that just reeks of a leak without the assist of the sealant.

Honestly Adam, I am afraid that I will end up installing time-serts or heli-coils in them all if I pull it. Still concerned with drilling the holes for the inserts straight enough, definitely looks like it'll require a right hand drill which I do not have...yet.

It'll probably bug me that I didn't do a better fix though....I'll have to sleep on it...

I appreciate and value all of the input, don't know what I would do without this place.

Adam Geist

Mitch,

For the minor pitting, I used Hondabond 4 (aka - Threebond 1194) with excellent success - and it cleans up easily the next the the water pump is off.

As you said - sleep on it.

Adam

Mitch Johnson

I'm using a Permatex product (Hylomar HPF) that I quite like...not familiar with the Honda/Yamaha bond stuff but imagine it to be quite similar. This stuff is great, doesn't harden and is completely resistant to all engine fluids.

Thanks

heinrich

Mitch did you have the short ones in the right spots?

Bill Ball

Oh, that explains why he said he would have to drill the WP and ruin its core value.

Bill Ball

BEST - Time-Sert
VERY GOOD - Heli-Coil
GOOD - Tap for larger bolt
OK - Leave the bolt out - there are twelve others doing the job.