slate blue

Guys I am looking potentially for a front set only (depending on the price I am happy to reco them) of the 89 GT fronts, these are the anodized 8" wide and 60 mm offset wheels, if anybody has some, maybe you have a damaged set or know of even one please let me know.

Thanks Greg

atb

Good luck in your search Greg, it seems these are impossible to find when you want them, and when you don't, they come out of the woodwork.

RyanPerrella

unfortunately thats not exclusive to Clubsport wheels

slate blue

I have a set of turbo 951 wheels and these are only different on the front by 1". The only reason I would like the 8" is so that I can run a 245 tyre on the front and rear. They are selling Hankook R spec tyres here for $600 a set in the 245/45/16 size and that is the only option, if I had an 8" rim great, if not I will run a Toyo tyre and that has the options of different sizes, just double the price.

Greg

Cheburator

I also have a set of 951 SE wheels, which need a refurb, but are straight. I am happy to sell them to you at a reasonable price as they cannot clear the new Big Yellows at the front. That way you can have 9" all round. The fronts could be a nice addition to someone with a '79... Let me know.

Alex

slate blue

Alex I will pass on the 9"s on the front but tell me about your big yellows and have you got your dry sumped engine together? Sorry if you have posted about this before but I rarely get to look at the list. We have a dyno day this Saturday with the Porsche club so that will give everyone a good comparision against other 928s and other P cars.

Greg

Cheburator

I only have Big Reds, which were painted yellow by the previous owner. Nick and I jokingly call them Big Yellows to confuse people. It did cross my mind to get 6-pot calipers of a GT3 as they are dirt cheap in Germany and then swap the hubs to early ones, so that I can mount the calipers with the help of adaptor brackets BUT:

- The Big Reds are perfectly adequate for endurance racing at the Ring, which in itself is reasonably gentle on brakes.

- The hassle of sourcing rotor hats and discs from Alcon is huge.

The drysump is on the car, but my mechanic has got a bad back, so he has not been able to connect the hoses back to the tank. I am exasperated, but there is hardly anything I can do, given that he is a "one-man-band" and the car is on the ramps.

Rest assured, I will be the first one to brag about it once the engine is running and the car is pulling 1.5gs in corners on Toyo 888s without the slightest drop in oil pressure...

slate blue

Alex, I know the feeling of a one man band, me being that band and being cash strapped. I know my second car won't be as fast as your GT but being an auto it will be hard on brakes I feel. The early car does has better brake duct cooling in its favour and I think but I am not sure but having the slots in the wheels allows for the air to flow through from the brake ducting. The brake ducting really works, the reason I make that comment was we drove through a plague of locusts and they were plastered all over the inner parts of the wheels.

You say you have GTS running gear? I thought you were working over your GT engine? You had your heads done etc, we have a guy here that has done the same and is doing some tuning with the Sharktuner and getting some really good results.

What type of power are you hoping to get from your engine? RWHP please some guys (dyno operaters) in the UK seem to want to quote crank figures. The guys doing the heads (2V)for my 5.35 litre engine or 327 CI, that was a great Chev engine hopefully for Porsche too We have estimated from data and programs and from what my 5.0 litre makes so far with minimal tuning around 350 rwhp through an Auto on a Dyno dynamics dyno, hope to have that engine together in the next few months, just running the teflon crank scrapers and thinking about a thicker sump gasket, anybody care to share any info on that area?

Going back to the brakes are you running aftermarket discs? I was thinking about the cross drilled ones with Pagid pads if I can get them, thiis car which is my new wife's car will also inherit my Ledas, good for weight savings, I think I can get this 85 model down to 1500 kgs dry, which isn't too bad, I do and complete this process have by changing the suspension,-20 kgs battery box and battery,-5 kgs, alloy spare wheel from the 951, 3 kgs new exhaust 12 kgs. Might cut some weight out of the bar reos too. I don't think changing to 4 piston Brembos will save any weight, however you may find it interesting to find out that my F50s weight about the same as the original steel calipers and discs.

So we can't wait to see how this one goesAlmost as much as you want to see how yours goes, are you Sharktuning too? My wife btw is bit a leadfoot compared to me We are hoping it might be able to get to 300 kph, she can do that run

Cheers Greg

Cheburator

I thought about working my GT engine for more power, but then we have a saying in Bulgaria that if you cannot solve a problem by throwing money at it, then you need to throw even more money at it. Thus I went out and bought a GTS motor, and a GTS gearbox, and GTS brakes.

I am using the GTS heads which have got 968 intake valves, ceramic valve seats, which are blended into the intake ports, which in turn have been enlarged by 3mm, intake port matching on the manifold side and Elgin cams. On the exhaust side I have 928 Intl headers mated to a X-pipe and a dual 2.5" exhaust. Wide band lambda for Sharktunning...

Hoping for around 420bhp at the crank - whatever that is at the wheels...


Using 964 Turbo 3.3 Discs with cast holes and Carbopads (German outfit). The car should be 1335kg dry as a minimum. I think I am around 1400kg at present, but have identified a few places to gain more - glass and roof skin...