sfierle

The issue has not always occurred after a bath. I plan to buy a fuel pump relay, to see if that makes a difference. If not, at least I will have a spare.

Randy V

The '83 has a fuse that controls critical components often related to hard starting conditions:

Fuse 13: Fuel Pump, Warm-up Reg, Aux Air-Valve

Try replacing that fuse - even if it looks OK - and clean the fuse holder contacts.

If that doesn't help, look at replacing relay XVI - Fuel Injection and relay XVII - Fuel Pump

Courtesy 928 Specialists:

https://www.928gt.com/t-8384fuse.aspx

sfierle

Update:

Yesterday morning, no start. After work, about 10 hours later, the car starts no problem. I didn't touch the gas, just turned the key. I replaced the fuse #13 last night, and plan to order the fuel injection and fuel pump relays from one of our sponsors today. I hope this does the trick. Any other ideas?

Mitch Johnson

From the can't hurt department:

Disconnect and reconnect the green wire and ignition brain connectors, look for signs of corrosion.

Another thing to try is bypassing the alarm, to do this:

There is a black 6-pin plug on the bottom of the CE panel towards the middle. This plug is labeled "Z", connect the bottom left (Z1) and top right (Z6) pins to bypass the alarm.

Other possibilities are

Fuel pump check valve
Ignition switch
green wire

sfierle

when i try to start my 928 i dont get the fuel pump going on. then after cranking 10 time it will start but sputer and ten clear up. the pump does short cycle after cranking, but not when key is frist turnd on.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

I agree with Mitch Johnson about jumpering the alarm at the z-plug. In spite of the common advice about z1 to z6, I found I needed to jump z4 to z6 and this was supported by the wiring diagrams for my 1984m which I think is same setup as yours. Looking at the plug jumper x to x:
ox
oo
xo
BTW the alarm shuts off the fuel pump so it just cranks.
Good luck









Good luck

Jack Riffle

Check the distributor cap and rotor. A tiny crack in the cap allows it to get damp in there and cn cause starting problems. If You have a spare ignition coil, replace that too. Not unknown for a coil to cause this condition.

wag

Steve: Just to rule it out, check the battery terminals and the nut on the hot side of the battery. I believe that wire comes from the fuse block and that nut that is on that battery post could be corroded to hell and back. That is what had happened to me. I have a posting on 928oc club on this too.

wag928s@aol.com

mark kibort

cold start injector, temp II are my two guesses. I had a bad fuel check valve for a long time and it started fine. pressure would drop after turn off in about 5 min. normally, 30min or longer for the line pressure to go down. didnt seem to effect anything. intake leak, not just a vaccum line, but the seal at the "U" and the throttle body or plennum. I had that issue with the '84

mk

sfierle

Hi all, I did a bit of checking with a mechanic friend of mine today (he is the one who wrote my last post early today). We discovered that if we turn the key, sometimes you can't hear the fuel pump "kick". If I turn the key to the "on" position and then off, after a couple of cycles you can hear the fuel pump "kick", then the car will start. We are guessing a worn ignition switch that is not allowing the fuel pump to work properly. I recently replaced the plug wires, and the cap and rotor looked fine. I have no extra coils to try, as advised. As listed in another post, I replaced the "green wire", fuel pump relay and fuel injection relay recently (trying to track down the issue). The car runs great when started and idles fine. I guess I will try the alarm bypass thing, if no luck, I will just have to cycle the key a few times to get it to start more easily.