Door Locks, HEL,
#3
Nordschleife Master
I took the lock out, took it apart, cleaned it up and its been fine ever since - the work of a couple of hours.
There's a couple of good writeups on dismantling and cleaning locks here somewhere.. Bill Ball has a bunch of good photos in a couple of threads.
Doesn't help you much tho', but you might get the lock and key back again.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleighwood
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bty hate my laptop.....it made me post too quick
back to issue: the lock was fixed by tony e. and works perfectly.
installed lock but once i hooked the lock lever arm (the plastic connection) to the receiving end that actuates locking and unlocking part. I cannot get the lock to work. it appears to be binding and it works in the unlock operation to unlock, but does not want to work towards the locking direction, i.e., one-way operation. I've studied the operation and have the passenger side (which to observe) and it works perfectly. Took lock back out and operated the receiving end manually (via the open lock hole in the door and it worked and locked perfictly). put lock back in and connected lever arm (plastic thingy) and it appears to bind and not work.
Ideas..........
back to issue: the lock was fixed by tony e. and works perfectly.
installed lock but once i hooked the lock lever arm (the plastic connection) to the receiving end that actuates locking and unlocking part. I cannot get the lock to work. it appears to be binding and it works in the unlock operation to unlock, but does not want to work towards the locking direction, i.e., one-way operation. I've studied the operation and have the passenger side (which to observe) and it works perfectly. Took lock back out and operated the receiving end manually (via the open lock hole in the door and it worked and locked perfictly). put lock back in and connected lever arm (plastic thingy) and it appears to bind and not work.
Ideas..........
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleighwood
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
what you discribe is exactly what was wrong with mine, what a learning experence, i felt your pain....but now, it appears to be another problem
#7
Nordschleife Master
I'll dig out the relevant threads from my subscriptions - I experimented with the spring before I found more details on how to correctly position it.
Here's Bill's thread that includes photos of lock internals including the correctly positioned spring.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/380616-the-anatomy-of-a-hatch-alarm-lock.html
Trending Topics
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleighwood
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Hilton and Rixter.....
Hilton, I'm convinced that it’s not the lock....when its out it works perfectly, as the passenger side. I had the problem you describe on the drivers side only, but no more. its somewhere between the lock and the receiving end of the lever arm. sorry for not referring to part # numbers and such
Hilton, I'm convinced that it’s not the lock....when its out it works perfectly, as the passenger side. I had the problem you describe on the drivers side only, but no more. its somewhere between the lock and the receiving end of the lever arm. sorry for not referring to part # numbers and such
#9
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PLUG!!! For search purposes.
I'm having this exact problem as well. I have alrready damaged my key a bit (the black plastic part that has the light & battery) by having to turn the key to hard. Plus, now the screw that holds the mechanism to the door is now stripped. Bummer! I recently did some work on the handle (the internal handle mount broke, again). I'll be interested to see how this progresses.
I'm having this exact problem as well. I have alrready damaged my key a bit (the black plastic part that has the light & battery) by having to turn the key to hard. Plus, now the screw that holds the mechanism to the door is now stripped. Bummer! I recently did some work on the handle (the internal handle mount broke, again). I'll be interested to see how this progresses.
#10
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I've seen binding in the external mechanism for the locks. It's hard to get a direct view of everything, but you should be able to work the external levers and find the misalignment or obstruction. On a few I just fiddled with them and they started to work and continued to work OK, although I never really saw what was causing the binding. Good luck.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleighwood
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks all for the replies.
This car came with this issue, b/c one of the keys was broke as Mickelsen described.
And Bill, your right, its tough to see in there, and a good flashlight with an assortment of picks has helped to snap and un-snap the levers.
Update on the lock. Took lock back out and used finger to push lock down from exterior hole in door, it moved easily and the locked (and passenger side locked as well (great)). used pick from same hole to pull up on lever, door unlocked (passenger side as well, great again). Do a couple of more times b/c thrilled it appears to be working. put lock back in this time and connect plastic lever prior to seating the lock with the hex bolt, with lock still sloppily in the hole, work the key and it works! Slowly slide lock to seat in the door, place hex bolt, turn door key and pray........ wow, it works. I get in the car and cycle the locks via the master switch on the dash, does 3 cycles and binds. NOW I"M LOCKED IN THE CAR! The interior door handle will not operate, proceed to crawl out passenger side........wtf
This car came with this issue, b/c one of the keys was broke as Mickelsen described.
And Bill, your right, its tough to see in there, and a good flashlight with an assortment of picks has helped to snap and un-snap the levers.
Update on the lock. Took lock back out and used finger to push lock down from exterior hole in door, it moved easily and the locked (and passenger side locked as well (great)). used pick from same hole to pull up on lever, door unlocked (passenger side as well, great again). Do a couple of more times b/c thrilled it appears to be working. put lock back in this time and connect plastic lever prior to seating the lock with the hex bolt, with lock still sloppily in the hole, work the key and it works! Slowly slide lock to seat in the door, place hex bolt, turn door key and pray........ wow, it works. I get in the car and cycle the locks via the master switch on the dash, does 3 cycles and binds. NOW I"M LOCKED IN THE CAR! The interior door handle will not operate, proceed to crawl out passenger side........wtf
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleighwood
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK this is getting serious now!
I cannot get the drivers door open. The automatic locks when they cycled, locked the driver’s side in the locked position and now it has stuck in the locked position. I removed the plastic moment arm/rod that connects the lock tumbler to the main lock mechanism. Tried to use "C" pick to pull main lock mechanism down (up is in the lock position) and it will not move. The automatic door locks also continue to run when the passenger door is left open (its trying to match the drivers side locked position). I pulled the #1 fuse, but the automatic locks still work.
First Q: what other fuse/relay to pull to get damn auto locks from cycling. Could not find anything per 928-specialist fuse chart.
2nd Q: how to get drivers side door open since the pick idea is not working.
Thanks in advance!!
I cannot get the drivers door open. The automatic locks when they cycled, locked the driver’s side in the locked position and now it has stuck in the locked position. I removed the plastic moment arm/rod that connects the lock tumbler to the main lock mechanism. Tried to use "C" pick to pull main lock mechanism down (up is in the lock position) and it will not move. The automatic door locks also continue to run when the passenger door is left open (its trying to match the drivers side locked position). I pulled the #1 fuse, but the automatic locks still work.
First Q: what other fuse/relay to pull to get damn auto locks from cycling. Could not find anything per 928-specialist fuse chart.
2nd Q: how to get drivers side door open since the pick idea is not working.
Thanks in advance!!
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleighwood
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill,
Thanks for the advice on the fuses, I ended up disconnecting battery (due to impatience). I'll look for these fuses tomorrow.
I think your on to something with the auto locks not being aligned. I could not figure any other way to open the door except to start taking things out of the locking sequence. the auto lock motor was the first to go. Once out its still binding, but at least i can see the mechanical opperation of things now. Currently using picks etc., and its really no fun rignt now. Just need drivers door to OPEN!
Thanks for the advice on the fuses, I ended up disconnecting battery (due to impatience). I'll look for these fuses tomorrow.
I think your on to something with the auto locks not being aligned. I could not figure any other way to open the door except to start taking things out of the locking sequence. the auto lock motor was the first to go. Once out its still binding, but at least i can see the mechanical opperation of things now. Currently using picks etc., and its really no fun rignt now. Just need drivers door to OPEN!