I jacked up the car in the garage, planning on checking the tranni fluid cold. Sure enough when it was all jacked up and I craweld under the car I noticed the tranni oil pan was still quite warm and the level above the 20 degree mark. Now I shifted through all the gears and have it sitting in idle for about ten minutes. The engine is all warmed up, but how would I know if the trans fluid is at the right temp? Will it reach operating temp in idle?
It still reads low. I would like to add some of the Valvoline Max Life discussed a couple of days ago.
Please help.
Thanks,
Sab.

 

1.) Cold- not running - at the top of the cap.
2.) Cold- running - bottom line.
3.) Hot (5 miles) top line.

Good Running

 

When I did this I started with the transmission completely cold. This was after replacing a couple of the transmission lines so the fluid level was low. When it was first running I filled the fluid to the cold level. I thought it might be better to run the engine until the fluid got to the specified temperature that the hot level was measured at, so I just let the engine run for a while. I kept checking the temperature with an infrared thermometer. It never got to the speciffied hot temperature from just running the engine and not driving the car. I just stuck with using the marking for the cold level when the transmission was cold.

 

From Porsche manual WDK 490 521, "Automatic Transmission A28 Description of Operation", Page 14

"Engine must be running to check ATF level! Only a rough checking of ATF level is possible on a cold transmission.
Level in transparent tank must not drop below the cold mark while engine is running.
ATF level rises as transmission temperature increases.
ATF level should be between the max. and min. marks when the car has operating temperature.
There is only very little oil between the min. and max. marks, and in fact approx. 200 ml (0.2 ml).

If too much ATF is ever added, even unintentionally, it is absolutely essential that the excessive amount be drained again."

 

Hmmmm,
I let the car running yesterday for aprox 20 minutes in idle on the jacks. The fluid level did not reach the min mark. I added about a half quart and reached exactly the max mark.

Reading Mike's comments, I am now worried that the fluid will get hotter when under actual driving conditions and then possibly be too high.

Will I have to drive and get it up on the jacks again to recheck? <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />

Thanks to all,
regards,
Sebastian.

 

You should not have to put your shark on jacks to check the AT fluid level. It is important that the car be on a level surface, otherwise you may not be able to get an accurate reading. Make sure the reservoir is clean. I can even add fluid to mine without raising the car. I found an old railroad type oil can with a long flexible nozzle and, with a little stretching, I can unscrew the reservoir cap, add fluid, and reattach the cap without lifting the car. <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

 

I use a mirror when the car is on the ground to see the fluid level. A bit of backlight helps me see the fluid in the window. You can also bounce the light of the mitrror and light up the window. I use a filler tube that is intended for diff. fluid. It's the same size screw-on cap and fits the ATF boottle. A bit of a squeeze on the atf bottle, and the fluid runs out the tube.

Greg

 

Thanks everyone,
I will try the mirror option, since I definetely do not fit under the car without the jacks.
Hopefully I didn't over fill the trans fluid.
regards,
Sab.

 

Over If too much ATF is ever added, even unintentionally, it is absolutely essential that the excessive amount be drained again."

WHY?
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

 

From WKD 490 521 "Automatic Transmission A28 Description of Operation", page 14

"Rotating parts would dip in the oil were the level too high, and cause the ATF to foam. Air bubbles in the hydraulic lines would lead to wrong shifts, which in turn could cause damage in the transmission."

 

Don't forget Steve J's suggestion about using a lawnmower gas cap. He found one that fits the trans fill, cut a hole, tube stays put rather than flopping around.

Here's the thread...

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=14&t=001614" target="_blank">ATF fill with gas cap.</a>

 

Thanks guys,
I just came back from a 15 mile drive and checked the fluid with a mirror (great tip, thanks). And sure enough, I overfilled it. It is over the max mark in idle, which is the top of the reservoir. So I am not to sure by how much. So the info on Nichol's tip site stating that the transmission fluid will reach operating temp by simply letting the car idle is not correct. The fluid gets hotter under driving conditions.
The lawnmower cap sounds like a great idea. I'll be draining of some fluid tonight.
I also looked into draining all the fluid and it looks like my drain plug (Alen bolt) is stripped.
How would I get that out now? I assume taking the whole pan of creates a massive spill...
thanks & regards,
Sab.

 

If anyone can't find a lawnmower cap of the correct size, a replacement Porsche cap is cheap, but you'd have to wait to get one.

Some cars don't come with drain plugs for the automatic transmission. (I'm talking about cars in general here, not 928s.) To remove the pan in those situations, without flooding the garage with ATF, you need a good sized drain pan. The drain pan is put under the transmission pan and the pan bolts are *loosened* a little. Notice I did not say *removed*. Some fluid may or may not come out from around the pan at this point. If it does, let it drain into the pan until it slows or stops. Then loosen and remove some of the pan bolts from one edge of it so that it will be lowered, and more ATF will drain out there. Keep loosening and/or removing pan bolts so that the ATF drains out of that lower edge. The idea is to have the pan under a controlled tilt as fluid drains. Once most of the fluid is out, the pan can just be removed, pouring the fluid still remaining in it into the drain pan. This can all usually be done without too much of a mess, but I'd suggest waiting until the ATF isn't hot enough to burn you.

 

Sab,


Two (three) easy ways to remove small a small amount of over-filled fluid-

If it's a very small amount, I have dipped a good-quailty clean paper towell in the reservoir and "drawn" the fluid out.

If it is a bit more fluid, a clean hand-operated suction pump with a tube inserted in the reservoir works good too.

There is also the method of putting a short tube in the reservoir, capping the tube with your thumb, and pulling the tube out. The same way my kid drinks his milkshakes.

Greg

 

Wally,
Thanks, as is the norm,for specifics and page ref. .
Greg86,
Like the screw filler on the ATF bottle.
I use a BIG turkey baseter with about 30" of clear poly-vinyl, for filling and the baseter works well for vacuuming out over fills as well.
The "kid's straw lift" has always worked for me too...in a pinch.
Sab,
It's a dirty job, but someone's gotta do it.
Here in Midland,Tx. on any given day a great deal of Amarillo, Lubbock, Andrews... gets deposited.
That fine blow sand can be shoveled off of the paved alley's. I put a light coating on the driveway, lay a large leaf bag down, cover the edges and make a Berm around the bag.
Then drive the vehicle over the whole works until I center the engine/trans/diff. over the bag.
Rarely stain the drive, shovel into old 5 gal buckets and dispose of when finished.
have fun, John S. and Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />