Radar detector/wiring question
#1
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Radar detector/wiring question
Hi all;
Quick question. Been meaning to place whistler radar detector since I bought my 85s over a year ago, finally did so yesterday. My problem, power source is a male (spade) connector that I wanted to patch in to cigarette lighter, also male connection. Obviously no electrician here. Any suggestions as to where I can attach the radar detector power in the center console area (Is there a male to female adapter so I can attach to cigarette lighter?) I'd like the radar on at all times when the car is on ... Thanks in advance.
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85s garnet/saddle tan
Quick question. Been meaning to place whistler radar detector since I bought my 85s over a year ago, finally did so yesterday. My problem, power source is a male (spade) connector that I wanted to patch in to cigarette lighter, also male connection. Obviously no electrician here. Any suggestions as to where I can attach the radar detector power in the center console area (Is there a male to female adapter so I can attach to cigarette lighter?) I'd like the radar on at all times when the car is on ... Thanks in advance.
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85s garnet/saddle tan
#2
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I wired mine into the radio circuit, on when the key is on. This is a better choice than the lighter socket, as thge radio is fused for the smaller wire that you'll use for the detector. Just a thought.
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That's a good point; I did notice the spade connector on the detector power is significantly smaller than that on the lighter. However, I have no knowledge or experience on how to "wire in" the radar connector. Is there a connector to buy in order to run the detector through the radio? Sorry for the simplistic questions, looking for a simple "plug it in" solution if it exists.
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85 928s garnet/saddle tan
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85 928s garnet/saddle tan
#4
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REC,
The spade connector is probably not going to help you much (you won't find anywhere to plug it). Unless you really really want to use it -you'll be better off getting yourself an insulation displacement crimp-on tap connector. Most Checker/Pep Boys etc stores will have these in the radio/electrical section. You cut off your spade connector and feed the insulated end into one port - then find the supply wire to an accessory line - like the radio, feed this into the open slot and crimp the connector down with a pair of flat pliers. Pretty simple - no soldering - no chance it will become unmated.
Make sure the wire guage is in about the right range for the connector, (fits the slot size well) also ensure the line you tap into is fused or that you have an integrated fuse somewhere.
I still prefer a soldered connetion with/without mating connector - but you need the right gear and some skill to do it well and best case it still takes 10x as long to do as a crimp connector.
Alan
The spade connector is probably not going to help you much (you won't find anywhere to plug it). Unless you really really want to use it -you'll be better off getting yourself an insulation displacement crimp-on tap connector. Most Checker/Pep Boys etc stores will have these in the radio/electrical section. You cut off your spade connector and feed the insulated end into one port - then find the supply wire to an accessory line - like the radio, feed this into the open slot and crimp the connector down with a pair of flat pliers. Pretty simple - no soldering - no chance it will become unmated.
Make sure the wire guage is in about the right range for the connector, (fits the slot size well) also ensure the line you tap into is fused or that you have an integrated fuse somewhere.
I still prefer a soldered connetion with/without mating connector - but you need the right gear and some skill to do it well and best case it still takes 10x as long to do as a crimp connector.
Alan
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If you want power you can get it from the fuse panel. At least on my '86, there are 2 empty fuse spots... if I remember a switched one is at position 3 or 4. Anyway, if you get one of those piggy-back fuse-taps you can take power from the hot-side of that empty site (the female hot-side connection IS there, even thought there's nothing on the load-side) and fuse it through that tap-unit. You will then have a clean, fused-as-you-like power source. If your car has no empty fuse-sites you can still use the piggy-back fuse-tap on an active circuit, like it was designed for.
If I ever get my hands on that clown that invented those "insulation displacement taps" I'll wring his neck with my bare hands. You should see the mess some dork made of my dash harness, with them.
I took the power for my radar unit from the overhead map light (over the rear-view mirror), but you will note that it's always hot.
If I ever get my hands on that clown that invented those "insulation displacement taps" I'll wring his neck with my bare hands. You should see the mess some dork made of my dash harness, with them.
I took the power for my radar unit from the overhead map light (over the rear-view mirror), but you will note that it's always hot.