Hi All,

Im wrapping up my intake refresh on the 87, but have come across this wire. I seem to have forgotten where this baby goes! As you can see the connector is broken! This wire is coming from the passenger side, its attached to the same wire that feeds the TB tensioner sensor, any ideas? I also included my before and after pics of the job!

Thanks,

Dan

 

hall sensor?

nice refurb BTW

 

WOW WAS THAT PAINT JOB EVER NEEDED!

LOOKS GREAT!

Who cares where the plug goes, that thing looks nice!

I was going to say the water sensor thats inline with that one hose but i see its already there. How many prongs? if its 3 It could be the HAL, I think the HAL is a 3 pronger, i cant tell from the pics. I am trying to think why you would have removed it but i guess you would of if you removed the valve covers so I would say thats it, its a bitch to get to i think it plugs from below if the other end is attached correctly.

 

funny Ryan I was thinking same................if it is the hall sensor wire its a bitch!

 

Thanks for the quick replies! Where is it located??

Dan

 

on the bottom side of the 1-4 cylinder bank right where the valve cover gasket is, right behind the backing plate of the timing belt.

I think you need to plug it in from below, which is a bitch, you will have to do it by touch. Unless you have go-go-gadget arms and assuming thats what it is, how many prongs is it?

Actually i would think so because you have your front timing belt cover off.

 

Ryan,

It has 3 prongs, its the hall sender! The connector is broken, I guess I have to rplace the whole thing?

Dan

 

do you have a cleaned up pic of the connector?...........all may not be lost?

 

I just repaired my crank timing sensor's connector that had suffered a break in the same way.

I used JB Weld to rejoin the two parts of the broken-off male connector (half of which is visible still in your female connector). I just used some degreaser and brake cleaner to remove any grease and clean the pieces, JB Weld'ed them, and left overnight.

 

or you can buy the bosch connectors, i forget the name but some online retailer sells them along with Bosch fuel injector plugs and the like.

 

Man does that paint make the engine look WAY better. Nice work.

 

It goes here :

 

If your connector is broken then you should get a new Hall sensor, this is one of the of the parts that should be replaced when you do a Intake RnR
Along with both knock sensors, the throttle position sensor the Flappy vacuum modulator and the crank position sensor, also if the ISV is original it should also be replaced.
I know this sounds like a lot of things to replace that may be working but once you reinstall the intake you want to leave it on there for about 20 more years before you have to redo your work.

Anyway back the the Hall sensor, it is located on the backside of the cambelt housing on the passenger side. The connection point is usually pointing down and the wire ususally routes from under the camhousing and routs along the top of the airpump along with the A/C wire. If you haver any connectors that have crumbling plastic replace them now dont use JB as a bandaid fix, your only asking for other problems . Pay attention to the MAF connector on the car side of the harness as well this may be a problem if its degraded. I hope that you also replaced all of the fuel injector hoses (all 4 of them).
You intake looks great, i hope your car runs awesome

 

Danny,
Roger has the connector replacement. It is a beatch to replace due to the limited length of the wire from the HALL sensor, but it can be done. Just be very carefull taking the remainder of the old one off and putting the new connector on. The wires are pretty thin and will break if you are not careful enough. If you break the wire, you can resolder it, but again you are looking at very limited space. I ended up replacing my HALL sensor because I broke the wire and it was too short for me to solder while still mounted in the car. At that point, since I was having to take it out anyway, I just replaced it.
Good Luck

 

dont try to fix the crumbling connectors with a new connector end.
What you wont be fixing is the insulation of each of these components remember they are all probably 20 or so years old.
Buy new parts and plug and play, I think its the best way