jim morehouse

I'm trying to remove the front brake rotors on my '82 and having some problems.

I got the two screws out ok but couldn't budge the rotor by tapping w a mallet. I tried using two 8mm bolts to 'push' the rotor off but the hat of the rotor just cracked (I guess a replacement is definitely in order now!). It's soaking in Kroil penetrating oil now but I'm running out of ideas. Anybody got any suggestions?

I think these have been on there a LONG time. I got the car a year ago, now has 100K miles on it and the rotors are significantly below the wear limit.

thanks,
Jim

BillHapke

Jim:
I got mine off by tapping with soft hammer and spinning the rotor while tapping. I had to clean the hub of all the brake dust after I got it off however. Tapping released all that dust.
Now I have a squeal in the right front when applying the breaks. Oh well. I will take apart in the near future and try to correct.

Bill
87 928s4

Thom1

Hi Guys:

My pads squealed after the mechanic swore it would never happen after his new pad installation. I upgraded to Axxis Metal Masters, and replaced the anti-squeal metal sheets with anti-squeal adhesive sheets. They may have come from Pelican parts. (Good bleeding procedures there) Pads must be clean to use any kind of anti-squeal. I would never install disk brake pads again without some sort of anti-squeal product other than, or in addition to the Porsche metal plates.

See <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com" target="_blank">www.pelicanparts.com</a> for brake bleeding procedures. I used a one man bleeding tool. It is just a check valve (one way) that slides over the bleeder. I pumped the pedal with the car running until I saw solid blue going through the tool's clear hose, added some more pumps, then closed the bleeder valve. (However, now I would start by using the check valve type of bleeder valve (speed bleeder) mentioned in earlier posts.) I kept filling the reservoir up to where I could see fluid so I would be sure no air was getting in. The problem with pressurizing the system from the reservoir is: You can run out of fluid in the reservoir, and let air in. However, pressurizers that keep adequate fluid in the reservoir should be fine. The Pelican site also lists a bleed sequence to follow: master cylinder, RR, LR, RF, LF. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid, alternate flushes with Gold. It is German with a high boiling point.

HTH,
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dr bob

Jim:

Since the rotor is sacrificail anyway, no problem giving it a pretty good whack with the Indy wheel nut wrench (that's a five-pound brass hammer) on the edge. The rotor will "ring" after a few whacks, a sign that it has let go of the hub. Do the hammer trick while using those jack screws to apply a little pressure to lift the rotor. One is better than none.

Interesting, by the way, that the rotor is under enough strain to crack but not enough to release.


If these 'normal' methods fail, don't be afraid to add a little heat to the rotor to get it to expand free of the hub. After it all comes apart, you'll want to repack the bearings and install new wheel seals anyway, so no love lost on the heat issue. The propane torch is good enough for this task, by the way. The faster you can heat the rotor compared to the hub, the better off you'll be. The steel rotor expands slower than the hub anyway, so fast heating is the most effective way to make sure there really is some differential expansion.

Hope this helps!


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jim morehouse

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it. I'm heading downstairs to apply some 'gentle persuasion'.

Thom, when I ordered my pads from 928 Specialists, Jeannie said I didn't need any anti-squeal pads on my year. Isn't there some type of liquid you can put on the backs of the pads and do you recommend this for the pre-S cars? I seem to recall reading something about this awhile ago but didn't record it.

thanks again,
Jim

jim morehouse

Dr. Bob,
that Indy Wheel Nut Wrench and the penetrating oil did the trick!

thanks,
Jim

Jerry 87 928S4

Jim, glad to hear you got them off. I just did both the rotors and pads on my front last week. I had to do the same with a hammer. The worst part for me was that two of the caliper bolts were stripped which I had to replace before finishing the job. Another surprise left by the PO

I put the dampeners in even though it didnt have them before and I had no squeel before. Now with the new rotors and pads there is a much better feel stopping the car. No brake dust either. Kudos to 928 specialists - I just said send me what I need and it all turned out perfect!

Hope to do the same to the back next week. Sure hope the emergency pads are okay - didnt buy any of those.

Snowball the 81 white 928

yo jim, not to fear. mask off the pad material and spray the sides and rear of the pad with the following tacky material:

disk brake quiet
type 27
versa chem

versa chem corp
west palm beach, fl 33407
8 3/4 oz
blue/yellow trim can
red product

i did all 4 corners and noted substantial improvement. clean all dust from calipers once pads are removed (toothbrush, vacuum etc.) right rear made some noise the other day but it was about 20 below.

Thom1

Hi Jim,

Jeannie told me that I just needed the afor-mentioned metal Porsche plates. They had already squealed like stuck pigs after that mechanic said I did not need anti-squeal. There are a few anti-squeal solutions available at most auto parts stores. Use of any reputable maker's product should work. The sheets that I glued on were like rubber. My pads previously took a year or two before they started to squeal. Just use something, or you may be sorry. Cheap solution.

Dave H.

on sunday i finished installing four cross-drilled rotors and new pads. i just used the plastic sticky squeal pads that Jeanie sent along with them, no more squeal.

me likey!

jim morehouse

Sounds like it won't hurt anything to put some type of anti-squeal on and might keep it quiet...down to the Auto parts store I go.

Jerry, I'm doing the backs as well so I know what you mean. I may end up having Jeannie overnight me the emergency brake pads.

thanks again, you guys are great.

Jim

Dave H.

jim, you have the rears apart yet? you might have plenty of e-brake shoes left. mine were still .150" thick, enough for another 14 years. just hosed them down with brake cleaner...

jim morehouse

Not yet, Dave. Hopefully tonight. Just suspicious because I think I'm running out of adjustment room w the cable. Since I'll have them off, I'll check the linings and see if I can get the adjustment right.

Jim

Ketchmi

Hey Jim! Once again, thanks for the info on the TT removal. Everything is ready to go back together, just waiting for me. (It was actually a torque converter bearing that had gone, but I rebuilt the TT while I was at it.) ((It's very easy and I will be writing up the procedure and requirements for posting at a later date!))
As for your adjustment on the e-brake, there is an adjustment on the brake shoes themselves. It is reachable through the small round hole in your rear rotors. If you find that your shoes are acceptable, adjust the shoes out and the cable back in. It will give you a lot more to work with. I did the same on mine, adjusted the cable in to get it where I wanted it, now I'm going to take up the slack with the adjustment on the wheels and get the cable adjustment back in the middle of the range. The shoes were in good shape on mine but it is getting new rotors, pads and axle's while it is down. Dave <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

Thom1

Hi Guys:

Good to hear that Jeannie is now recommending plastic sticky anti-squeal pads. The squeak comes from metal to metal shimmy. Metal to plastic or rubber like substance, or metal glued to metal is much more pleasant to the ears.
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