'85, 5-sp. Took a road trip, 400 miles in Nov. Ran great, but twice on re-start after refueling at 300 mile mark, turned the key, dash lights, but no crank, no click, nothing. Tried it once or twice more, and it started, no problem there on. Has been sitting in cold storage for two months. Now when I turn key, I get lights, cranks strong, but no fire. I changed the fp, ignition and the LH relays, also checked fuses; did not jumper fp relay as it honked the horn before I put the horn in the fp slot. I push on the accelerator and I can smell gas, so I don't think it is the pump or relay. Battery measures 12.5V. Ran out of time. I will put charge on batt and check for spark and fuel. Ignition switch must be ok or it wouldn't crank, but maybe that caused the intermittant no crank once before? I suspect there will be no spark, then I'm checking the injectors for a break. I know that harness is brittle. TIA for your thoughts?

 

Jump the FI and fuel pump relays and see if it still does it. It also could be the ignition swhitch.

 

check to see it you are getting a signal to your fuel injectors.


Matt

 

Thanks, these are on my list: plug(s) are coming out to check for gas and spark, then the FI wires will be checked for signal and breakage.

Anything else?

 

I had this problem I could get the car to fire if I shot gas or starting fluid in the intake but wouldn't stay running on it's own. I checked everything!!
It ended up being the crank sensor FYI

Matt

 

I got the same problem, won't start and the shark is nearly brand new. I'm blaming it on some type of demons or lack there of. I'm thinking of blasting Marlin Manson for days until the car gives up and starts.

Sometimes these problems fix themself, most of the time they don't. You can leave your shark stored for months in the garage, and it will break down and fix itself on electrical problems and you won't even know it.

crank sensor?

 

Steve,
I know it sounds crazy, but charge your battery. Mine will kick over, but won't start if my battery output voltage reads 12.5! Captree ??
Lex

 

I've seen the ignition switch fail in the wafer. It will still crank the engine, but won't put 12V on the EZK. Once your batt is charged, pull the two front plugs, and attach them to the ign wires. Grab a can of carb cleaner, and have someone crank the engine while you squirt in the MAF intake. Watch the pulled plugs too.

It should fire on 6. If it does fire reluctantly, and you see spark on both plugs, put them back in, and work on the fuel delivery. If you see no spark, and it won't fire, start on the ignition. I would check the ign switch carefully if you don't have any spark on either plug(two different circuits). Also CPS, and then EZK.

 

Thanks all. It's getting repititive here but a no-start is the great challenge for a DIYer, and since I have different symptoms at different times, I have the added challenge of "intermittant", sort of like needing Viagra once in awhile, not that I know anything about that.

If I ever retire, I will compile a troubleshooting notebook on our MYs and everything that causes this, cold, hot, etc., I'm almost positive the relays are not the problem, since I've R&R'd them. I know I need to put a charge on the batt. It seems to turn strong, but 12.5 sometimes isn't enough love. I will then jump the pump, and that won't do it . I see in Watson's Bosch book that the crank sensor may be it (Red!, you're back! great) so when I find there is fuel, but no spark, I'm looking at the crank sensor, then ig switch.

Lex: I'm out of town this week; what with this prob, I may be able to get to Captree on 4/12?? We should try to set something up or do you just show at 8 AM at the diner?

 

Hey I called it first (My names not Rodney but I still get no respect)

 

Update: Sat I put a new battery in, no joy; so I probably gave Autozone a good batt, albeit 5 yrs old I bet that baby had less than 200 kranks on it, which is only my fault I left the new one connected on some weird theory that it might cook the CE (in a good way) and might make a difference. Next day, (unscientifically adding a second variable), I threw one capful of Seafoam into the intake. She fired immediately, and never hesitated after that. So where does starter fluid fit into the spark/fuel/timing equation and how it got the 928 magic to work?? She had sat in cold storage for 4 months no fuel additive. Any theories?


Sidebar: to make amends I washed her, replaced the dash dimmer reostat, vacuumed and did some other minor cleanup. Next week the cruise control vacuum lines get replaced and the lines/connections from the seat switch (known to be good) get r&r'd.

 

You have an intermitent problem. Originally it was "no crank, no click, nothing." Then it changed to "cranks strong, but no fire".

If with the Seafoam it had started and only run briefly, that would point to a lack of fuel, but that's not what happened. It continued to run, so at this point you have no problem.

Your original problem (no crank, no click, nothing) was either ignition switch or starter solenoid or wiring or dead battery. The subsequent problem could be crank sensor or ignition switch as you ruled out fuel and relays.

The ignition switch electrical part failures are very often erratic, at least at first. Mine failed by causing the headlights to go out occasionally at inopportune times. I eventually discovered that wiggling the switch did make a difference, so that was a big clue for me. The switch is about $60 and can be changed by partially removing the pod to get access to the two screws that fasten it to the rear of the switch body.

 

Bill: Thank you. It does seem to be two problems. I could hear the pump hum 2-3 seconds and stop when battery is connected, so I destroyed a good fp (XX) relay getting the old one out; starter fluid is easier than getting a plug out to check for wet; a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, might be a good addtion to this car. The old batt was at 12.5V; the new one shows 12.83 after a 10 mile drive. And the "no click" could rear its head again, and probably will. I should order an ignition switch, and do that when I have the seat out, etc.

 

I would also check the hot post connections disconnect the battery and remove the 11mm securing bolt and oppen the 14 pin connector clean these with a pink eraser and make sure that you have a hot post cover installed you can get one ordered for a 1988 S4 it fit perfectly also get a new securing/ cap/cover for the hot post